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If its an SJR lift, you are keeping VERY close angles to stock. I used forester struts before I bought my lift and we (Scott and I) decided to only have 5 Inch strut tower blocks built, and I'm not regretting it. The rump roast sags pretty bad and the axle of the lateral bars show that I could have easily ran another 1.5+ inch on them before I'd start breaking axles. These axles are stronger than you think, its full Lock+WFO that breaks them more often than the angle they run at. We need to get with RCV and see if they could make use a offroad axle. RCV's will run @ a 45 degree angle. Worth checking out if you like bashing. 45 degrees at the steering joint, 28 degrees on the inner. So I got an idea, we get them to run the steering joint on both ends? Not only does that mean less breaking, but it means more suspension travel options

I run my EA82's open covers, I have for the past 10 years. Yes it does wear belts out faster, but it only takes 10 minutes to swap belts out when they break. bearings on the tensioners wear faster, but I've never had a belt break while in a mudhole. The one time I told a buddy to run open covers on his EJ22, he snowbanks it to the point where the entire hood is filled with snow, and YES he did just time. But it was one fo those things where if he was skidplated up, it prolly could have been avoided. My EJ25D keeps the covers on it because the exhaust pulleys are the lowest exposed point on my engine. Gloyale has it right thou about keepin a spare tensioner ready to go. I carry a vice with me, but I rarely have a stopper pin with me.

how'd the fluid look that came out of it when you got it from the junk yard? Sounds like the edges of the gears are worn. Mine made all sorts of whines before I finally pulled it out.

hrmmm. I might just have to say screw it and go buy the Phase 1 tranny. I ended up coming up with 3 Phase 1 4.11's.. Just a little pricey.. I hate paying the same amount for the tranny as I did for the entire car in perfect running condition..

I'm wondering if a resistor pack would do it? All the ecu really sees to turn a CEL on is resistance. Time to dig out a FSM and start digging. I've found one 92 4.11 5MT but its buried under the snow. Hate to have to convert one of those to juice clutch, not sure if it' be worth drilling/tapping the bellhousing to bolt down the slave. and then changing the pivot ball. hrmmmm

Ok, my 4.11 5MT is trashed, I opened it up today and the amount of gear damage was to the point I threw in a used gear set so I could drive. Needless to say 2nd gear syncros are GONE in that gearset. Its got a whine to it and a pretty nasty vibration so its times limited. What I have is a 05 Outback with a 5 speed in it, and I know its the style that uses the female inners on the axles. So I've covered that part of the problem by using automatic stubshafts and seals. Second part, is other than splitting the case open, buying the 2 seals and snaprings for the old style speedo gear, is there any other way around getting my speedo to work? In reality I could care less about it, but I think its gonna set a CEL if I run without it.. I need ideas guys, springs comin fast and I want to be able to beat on the Outback and see if I can bend some more SJR lift parts. If I cant find a way around the speedo gear, I'm gonna have to drop 500 bucks or so on a wrecked Outback/Forester just for a tranny.

looks good, I need to get rims like you have and get on the 4.5 pattern. I know my car would feel a hell of a lot better in corners with the wheels sticking out

If you use the 2.5L airbox/MAF and my setup, everything stays bolted down in its original place. So my airbox thru the fender coupler still hooks up to the water trap behind the front bumper.

I think the combo of this build and SubaFreaks build would be an interesting combo. I like the idea of more suspension travel, thats always been a dream of mine, I've met up with a fabrication guru up here and showed him my lifted outback and he's inspired to build something almost as a buggy but using Subaru Power/drive train. Once we figure it out on a buggy, we were thinking about trying it on a actual Subaru body. Testings gonna be the biggest part, good thing I'm the guy that gets to break stuff

I've been tempted to get into a project like that with one of my loyales. I like the idea of having the open back, almost like a Brat but with a vinyl snap on cover to keep the mud out.

Admin Delete this post not sure why my browser double posted this.. Sorry

take the center console out, and look down at the cable. if theres slack in it, pull on it. you'll find the broken section. Only time I've seen a cable break, it was at the roller on the back of the ebrake handle. Rock Auto had ebrake cables for most of the subarus last time I checked. I wore through mine from them rubbing against my lift blocks and needed to replace my rear cables. something like 45 bucks a side IIRC

nipper the idea behind the 2wd ebrake is so you dont have to let off the gas. You keep your tires spinning as the rear drags around corners (hairpins especially) As soon as the ebrake light goes off its back into 50/50 (cant ebrake in 50/50, it loads up the clutchpack, and you end up getting 4 wheel braking. VLSD doesnt spool up as fast as everything thinks, specially with 200k miles on it. If I had a clutch type, or a torsen I wouldnt even worry about the ebrake switch. I'd just have to learn how to pre drift a little more. And the USA SVX's have the same 90/10 AWD system that the Legacy/Impreza/Foresters had. The Euro/Asian ones used different programming, unless I'm missing something here And the tranny in the SVX already has a delayed shift issue if you dont have Quick Change installed. I run with my shift sol resistor unplugged when I'm on the track. Then again I'm doing it on ice, where instant tire lock up doesnt really stress the tranny like it would on tarmac. The 4.44 4EAT is amazing, I've ran that tranny harder than any other auto and have had zero issues with the tranny its self. Matter of fact, if I ever score another SVX, the 3.54 4EAT is coming out immediately and its getting a 4.44. Makes it a real car then. Its just been with the tranny computer programming. between too slow of shifts and AWD delay. IMO all 4EATs should have came with VTD. At least then its a fully useable 4 wheel drive system.

how much of your fenders did you cut? guessing 2 inches or so? You've got way more fender to tire clearance than I do on my OB, same size tires and the only rub issue I have is on the body behind the tire (right about where the dead foot rest is on the drivers side) at MAX compression on drivers side it rubs on just the very lip of the rear of the front fender. Rears I have had 0 issues with rubbing, other than the tires hitting the spring perch on the strut. 1.5" spacers took care of that. and what rim and size are those? I like the offset, they seem to stick out a bit farther than the stock rims, or do you have spacers as well?

I had to run the 2.2L air intake when I got done lifting my OB, and noticed a huge lack of bottom end power (EJ25D sucks for bottom end to begin with) We just got a wrecked 05 Outback in at work and I started looking at the airbox that bolts to the throttle body. They were nice enough to put a cutout in there to clear the pitchstopper (upper motor mount) Might have to ziptie heater hoses and AC hoses back a little bit, but it gives enough room to rotate the airbox to where you are getting a straight shot to the MAF on the airbox. I used the EJ25D middle piece of the air intake as a splice (so I could keep my IAC hose hookup) Other than that it was basically a direct bolt up, other than adding a T into the PCV line that comes off near the PCV valve. I tied that into the passenger side crank case ventilation line and then into the airbox. Car surprising has a lot more bottom end. It smoothed out the power range, instead of lag til 3k, it pulls evenly to the rev limiter (4500 to 6500 seems to peak a little faster) Keep in mind I'm running a weird exhaust system, Just the front cat and factory piping to the back of the tranny and then the tail pipe is 1 3/4" ID to keep the back pressure up. And good god does it crackle on decel. def makes heads turn. I'll take some pictures of it if anyones interested in doing this to their lifted rig

Please delete this one, I apologize about the double post

I ran 50/50 all winter in my SVX. Love it that way, its wired in with a switch so I can go back to awd when I'm on pavement. Lap times on the ice track were considerably faster in 50/50 mode. I wish I had the e-brake/2wd switch rigged to it, would make amazing driving.

all can be converted to work though. use the 05 heads on the 06 block and change the oil pan/pickup tube

easy job to do if you have any mechanical exp. just gotta pull the tail shaft extension housing off, unplug the duty C and then from there its basically just restacking the new clutches. Steel/Fiber/Steel/Fiber etc. I add an extra Fiber clutch on mine if I Can still get the snap ring back in. took 4 hours first time I did one in someones garage without air tools. If you are small enough you can almost get away with doing the job just with the front tires on ramps. I've gotten fatter so I have to get the car up on truck jackstands

MAP = Mass air pressure. it measures the barometric pressure of the atomosphere and tells the computer air density. MAF is mass air flow. it meters the amount of air coming past a sensor. Subaru used one or the other but not both from what I remember. the EJ25D (dohc engine) was a MAF engine, the EJ251 (sohc) is a MAP engine. The EJ253 went back to MAF for some reason. If you have an airbox with a square sensor bolted to the airbox its a MAF motor. If your airbox is bolted directed to the intake and has a filter right there at the throttle body thats a MAP motor

I will be getting one of these within the next month or two Bill. I have 2 Loyales with mint bodies sitting waiting for it, right now its just the funding. One I get the $ I'll call ya and we'll get everything set up.

running with that fuse in shouldnt technically hurt it because all it does is apply 12 volts to the Duty C, keeping it closed so no line pressure makes it to the clutch pack. Before you tear into anything, I would check the rear CV axles, make sure ones not busted and spinning internally. Open diffs will act weird with very worn axle. Look at the rear diff where the axles snap in, make sure the axles are all the way in. The cup should be touching the scraper seal on the diff Question is, why were the previous owners driving with the fuse in? Possible problem and they needed a car to drive so putting the fuse in stopped the AWD issue?

take the disty cap off, spray it down soaking wet with PB blaster and reinstall it. I keep a can in each of my cars with distributors, I've died in a mud hole before from wet disty, soaked it in PB blaster and drove out of the hole. The whole thing about it coating your terminals and killing spark, you are using the wrong stuff then. Read the can of PB blaster, says spray directly into distributor (which I've done numerous times, not just in the cap but directly into the disty) Cougar - I imagine it destroys/melts any of the plastic around that injector. Ether has a wicked burn rate (which is why engines knock when you run them on straight ether), and burns at a lot higher temp than gas

make sure to replace that O-ring on the dipstick when you do find it. The oring shrinks and will allow gear oil to bubble out of there, dripping directly down onto the cat converter. I swap out that O-ring any time I service a trans

ground from the tranny to the firewall, battery to bellhousing, and then there is 2 grounds one on each side of the frame rails right in front of the valve covers (only certain years of the Gen 3 Legacy had them, I dont remember the specific years but they will be 10mm bolts if yours has that style grounds in that location)