torxxx

LSD is all you should need. If you can't get there with LSD, learn how to drive.

I maybe able to come across another one. They arent too many of them because I think they only made the legacy ss Ej22T for 2 years. I know there is 4 or 5 or them running around up here. I'm trying to get one of them for the engine and wiring harness, so I'll let you know if I come across one. Welcome to the board, good to see more alaska members.

yes, they are very easy to install. Everything is the same as a EA82 rear diff. I too have a 3.9 VLSD in my car

No sooby lifts are cheap because they are a body lift. Hell you can lift a pickup 4 inches with hockey pucks and longer bolts. You start getting into suspension lifts for a Ford or Chevy You pay 1800 dollars for a 6 to 8 inch lift for a new truck, but its because you are getting springs, shocks, shackles, longer raduis rods or trailing arms what ever you want to call them. All our lifts are is essentially blocks of metal.... Thats why they are 400 bucks. A 8 inch suspension lift for a subaru would cost 2 grand because its not just dropping your solid axles down 8 inches and adding longer shocks and springs. You'd be looking at longer control arms, steering arms, longer cv axles.

I didnt measure the blocks, but the engine x member and strut spacers were the same depth. No adjustable shocks.. its got RX struts in the back and wagon struts in the front. Either way you look at it, the alignment in the front will stay the same except for the camber. The back is the 4 inch drop down brackets for the struts and the 1 inch mustache bar spacers

what you said about its going to be the same with all lifts is NOT TRUE AA lift has the problemn with the rear tires being raked forward because of how they lifted the back. They did not drop the swingarm brackets like a ozified lift does. All the AA lift is taking the extra downward movement out of the control arms. ozified drops the swingarm bars so you aren't maxing out the movement of the control arms. thats funny that everyone is having problems with eating axles... Hahahahahah.. I've rallied the ************ out of my car with the lift and had no problems.. havent broke anything yet.. knock on wood

so from what it sounds like, AA had to send out newer updated strut extentions? James, how does that work for us who've already bought a lift kit? From the way I see it, AA owes me 75 bucks for the welding I had to have done on my steering shaft. I wouldnt reccomend a AA lift just because of all the trouble I had getting mine, and getting the right parts. My tranny xmember triangle brackets were not lined up also. I had to file down some of the holes to get them to all line up.

Plan on breaking more stuff running that size of tire with a welded rear end. There's gotta be a limit for tire size on stock diff's. Look for a 3.9 Legacy rear diff. Set up for more HP, so the gears and internals should be stronger.

Raid hoses will have to be changed. You will need a longer pitch stopper You will need to unbolt the parking brake cable from a few spot because the body will be lifted. I did not get an alignment job after the lift because: 1. The Geometry of the front end stays the same because you arent extending anything on the IFS. 2. The rear has no real alignment as far as camber in and out. 3. The rear tires get "raked" forward because of the rear strut extentions, so they are going to be out of "factory" alignment and that is going to throw the alignment shop off when they go to do the back. My car drives fine down the road. I do not regret the lift at all. I went with the high clearance lift. AA tested the axles upto 10,000 miles with the high clearance lift and they held up. I've done a bunch of rallying on used rear axles and mine still dont make any noise. One this that was said about the lift was that the angle of the rear axles was increased a lot. Mine actually sit right where they need to be. Before the lift, my axles said almost flat from the hub to the rear diff. Now it looks like it should. Installing the lift was the only thing that pissed me off. I got the wrong steering shaft, so I had to spend more money getting my original shaft cut and rewelded. Not to mention I was told the wrong length the first time I talked to AA about the problem with the shafts. So I ended up spending 75 bucks in welding fees. All in all... I love it. With VLSD in the rear and 25.5 inch tires, I've followed trucks with 33" tires on em down trails and had NO problem.

Brian - talk to Kelly (Snowman) He put a electric fan on his raid when he still had the SPFI EA82 on his. It came with a speed controller. I think he paid around 40 or 50 bucks for it.

same here about the 2 different part numbers.. I have noticed no difference in bushings. I'm running a AWD VLSD rear diff from a EJ22T in it, and everything was the same, except for the support bracket bolts. Either way they'd both work. Someone got the ### for the mustache bar bushings?

ahhhh that makes sense

I like the fact that with my 4 Inch AA lift and VLSD in the rear I can go anywhere a pickup with 33"s can go. (cuz I dont have that gay solid front axle stickin down low. Not to mention my rear diff sits about 3 inches higher than a stock chevy pickup.. Easy to work on, tougher than nails.. When is mine going to die?!?!

Tranny pan gasket in a automatic with the tranny still in the car. I hate ATF. Especially burnt ATF. The guy who gave us teh car drove the car with a bad front seal on the tranny for 4 years. He added oil when the car quit moving. Needless to say, new tranny pan gasket and front seal, we sold the car and its still out there driving.

Not sure. The turbo I built at my shop, someone unhooked the vacumn lines and I didnt know it. I started it up and drove it around the shop two or three times.... IT overheated the turbo and blew out the coolant and oil seals..

it runs the wastegate. tells it when to open/close from vacumn lines running to the selinoid and to the wastegate..

Yup mine does the same thing. The bushings are gone on mine.. I need a part ### so I can order some new ones

Wait wait wait so what do I need to make my front end LSD? a legacy LSD?

What years of cars has this happened on? Mine is an 86 and it seems to be stronger than the loyale years. my buddies 92 bent and ripped all that crap out, just hittin a curb at 15 mph.... I'm thinking it may be a year based problem

heh, I've had no problems with mine. They probably should have been ripped out long ago, but they seem pretty damn strong.

hey guys, I just got my adapter plate in the mail. Time to ditch the EA82 and go with the EJ series. Now I'm trying to find a flywheel that's been redrilled to mate up to the EJ22 crank. Anyone have one for sale? I'm also looking for the shop prices people have paid for the redrill. There is a few places in town that are capable of doing it, but I'm kinda leary since it needs to be high speed balanced. Anyways, if someone has one, let me know. I have money right now and want to get this project done so I can get the money together for my RX coupe

You should do fine. I went farther than a 94 bronco with 33x12.5x16 inch tires with my lifted EA82 wagon. It just depends on where you are going and who is driving.

I think I can get a XT6 in great conditon, needs tires and valve cover reseal for a grand, or I could get a 88 RX Coupe with timing problems for a grand.... What should I do??? other than try to get both of them. I'm kinda going for speed with this car since I have a lifted rig now. For the RX I'd want to do what WJM did with his RX. I think it would be one hell of a ice racing car. The XT6 is a auto, so I dont know how that's going to work on ice. So a tranny swap would be needed. Since I haven't driven a XT6 before, I can't compare top speeds. There seems to be more mods for a EA82T than a ER27 (unless the twin turbo project got finished.) Whats the max hp I'm gonna get out of the RX, and the XT6? Gimme Your Ideas Please

Well after a few days of offroad testing on snowy trails and hills.... I LOVE IT. It does take a second or two for the VLSD to lock up, but when it does, you can go anywhere. Powerline cuts up hill sides have been a blast. It also does good on icy paved roads.. the rump roast end likes to go around a lot more, but I love how I can launch off a red light on glare ice and still hook up. To whoever wanted a picture of what the inside looks like, too bad. I'm not taking it back off the car and taking the case apart. I Will make it simple for you. a VLSD is just like the Center diff on a AWD Legacy. It uses clutch discs and fluid that expands to lock up the rear. A regular 3.7 LSD uses springs. I'm not sure on the exact amount of twist before it locks up, but I think they are 1.5 turns and then both tires lock in. I am going to convert my old 3.9 open to the 3.7 spring type LSD and try both on the ice track here pretty quick since a rear diff can be changed in 15 minutes with the 4 inch AA lift on.. Also Another tip for anyone who is changing rear diffs.. When you bolt the diff back up, put capped lug nuts on the 4 bolts that hold the front of the diff up. This will prevent the banging up of the threads like I ran into. With the lug nuts on there, it will crack the lug nut before it will ruin the studs on the bolts. It is interesting how the VLSD makes noise when it locks up. Kinda cool that you can hear it working.

well today I got ahold of a rear diff from a EJ22T. 3.9 ratio. Funny story how I got it. Our competition (another subaru shop) went under and sold everything. We got a dozen wrecked imprezas for cheap and some other older stuff. I asked the guy if he had a 3.9 open diff for a loyale layin around so I could put my 3.7 LSD unit in the 3.9 case. He showed up 2 hours later with a 3.9 rear end... with the vicious LSD. not bad considering I paid 60 bucks for it and now I can put the real LSD in my old 3.9 open diff. So I get my old diff off.. took a while cuz the 4 nuts holding the front on were being pretty stubborn. I get it out, get the new lsd diff in place and I can't get the nuts to go back on the studs. after looking at them and seeing how they are the lowest part on the diff, they were worn to an angle to the point that the nut wouldnt thread on. Being dark out and -20F outside, I look through the yard and find a 96 legacy with the rear diff already missing. Grabbed the holder bolts and replaced my old smashed one. So far I like it on ice. I hit a spot of dry pavement during a slow turn and had some BAD BAD binding on the outer tire. I'm guessing it was locked up when I turned causing the binding but I'm not sure. I'm going out tommrow to do some full on rallying and test it out to see if I like it. Has anyone else on the board put a legacy fluid LSD in a EA style car?