torxxx

Check engine light on? codes coming from the ecu? sounds like a TPS or the injector could be bad.

Yes I have cut many windows out of soobs without breaking them. You need the right tools for the job to do it. I use a paddle blade. It goes in a saw like a sawzall. The blade is flat 1/8" or less steel. it is 3 to 4 inches wide and foot and a half long. Use water to help with the cutting of the urethane. Start at the top and work your way down. Do not pull the chrome plastic molding off of the outside of the window. When you get the glass out, the molding should stay with the window. If it doesnt come off with the window, dont take the window out. set it back in place and cut with a razor on the outside of the windshield frame where the molding is stuck to the car. They also make air knife which is a short flat pointed blade that moves side to side a 1/4" really fast.. they work, but they tend to crack the glass more than the way I listed above. TAKE YOUR TIME and it'll come out fine.

I say, if you got good splash covers on the front and underside of the motor, run with out em as long as its a 96 and older... interference motors I wouldnt reccomend it. I've ran my EA82 for 2 years with no covers, and have had NO problems with breaking belts or blowing seals or getting sticks/rocks crap in there. I have 1000 miles on no covers with my 4 inch lift on. Part of the motor sticks out below the bumper with the belt exposed, but it still hasnt hurt anything.

hmmm thats weird.. I wonder if the motor that was in the 89 wagon was a newer motor? Its hard to tell if the motor in the car is the original engine cuz so many people blow up motors here in fairbanks.

right on thanks for the info.. very useful

what I've been wondering about a EA82 heater core is, does the input and output hoses connect to the heater core on the top of the core box? or are the necks in the middle? (talking top to bottom) I'm thinking that if the necks are on the top, that maybe the core is plugged from the bottom to the top, and now its just bypassing the core blowing from the input straight across the top of the core to the output? make sense?

I ended up going with Firestone 195/70/14 tires and 14 inch pug rims for my car. I had some problems with the rims rubbing slightly on the front brake calipers so I threw on some 1/2" washers to set em out a lil bit. Seems to work, lugs are staying tight. I went with 14 inch pugs because I got 4 rims for 100 bucks and I was looking at more than that just to get yota rims and then even more to have them drilled..

Alright guys, I'm starting to get into EJ22's at work now. Popped my newer generation cherry this week at work. My questions are: 1. Ej22's dont have a led light on the ecu that spits codes does it? If not, what OBD thing do I need to get codes off it? 2. What are the years are far as the wiring harness's go? I pulled a motor from a 90 legacy wagon yesterday and put it in a 92 legacy sedan and I had to change the intakes and a few other things to get the wiring harness's to line up. I'm assuming 89-91 and then 92-94 are the differences in years? 3. As for the dual cooling fans, is one of them supposed to come on when I start the car? or are they both thermo sensor'd? thanks in advance for some answers...

hey guys.. Got two EA82 wagons at work that I'm working on. One is a 92 loyale. The power windows do not work. Checked all the fuses, changed the drivers side switch and still doesnt work. Is there a relay somewhere or a fuseable link for the power windows somewhere that I'm missing? The other car is a 86 carb'd wagon. A kid at work put a spfi motor in there, changed everything over and couldnt get it to run. I got it running, but the warning lights in the dash are on. The charge light, the stop lamp and the brake fluid lights are all on. I unhooked the positive cable to the battery and the car kept running, with positive hooked up it charges right at 13 volts. The brake lights work, and the brake fluid is topped off. What would be causing the warning lights to stay on. Also the kinda dim and they flicker when on, they arent bright like the warning lights in my wagon

I'll agree with you on the 7000 rpms... Always worked with mine

I'm in Alaska, but I got a set of used belts you could have also..

yup that was the post I was talking about. I did a few things different, just to make it easier.. like the sideburn pipes he talks about, I just capped off the hoses after the ASV.

search for it. I did it two years ago and theres a thread about it

Well I just got done with my 500 mile road trip. Lifted is actually nicer for road trips. Scary in some spots but thats because of the bald summer tires on the front and the what I think have turned into bad wheel bearings. Started as a small grind, and now its horrible. Doesnt seem to have a problem rolling though.. The lift shouldnt have changed the pitch on my tires in the front would it? Its as loud as driving down the road with new super swampers on. Carb did ice up a few times.... Shoulda kept the stock airbox... Anyone have any interesting ways to hook up a hot pipe to a SPFI air intake? I was gonna weld a fitting onto the SPFI airbox and run flex tubing to the box but I'm not sure if its gonna get hot enough air to keep the carb from icing up. Gotta get it fixed, its killin my mpg. Drove 375 miles today, burned 22 gallons. 17 mpg All the bolts stayed tight the whole drive. checked em every 100 miles.

I went through 3 sets last winter 35 dollar a tire from wally world all studded. They worked good til the studs blew out of em

I can't stand ABS for anything.. I like being able to feel what my tires are doing through my pedals... The ABS pulse scares the hell outta me on ice/snow

you have a shortcut I dont know about? u take the bottom strut nut off or not to change an axle?

Just take the axle out doesnt really work for guys with 4 inch lifts though. I dont know how hard it is to get an axle off on your 3 inch lift, but mine takes two people and a 8 foot pipe for leverage.

I cut out my sway bar on my wagon 2 years ago. I like the way it rides now. Less chatter in the front end on gravel, less understeer, more independent fron suspension. I've rallied the crap out of this car like that. Burned up 3 sets of tires last year on the ice track. I may put a sway bar back on but it'd have to be detachable for offroad use. Even with my 4" lift on I still do 65 - 70 down the highway and the body lean isnt any worse than my old ladys 96 Isuzu Rodeo

Parts car? 90% of the soobs I've found at junkyards have good antennas on it. Lemme know if you want me to get you one on Monday and I could mail it

yeah I think it was the plastic trim. It rubs ont eh plastic in 1 3 and 5 so I think thats what happened.. hit a bump and everything moved, plastic knocked the shifter back and the t-case in neutral at the same time locking the whole thing up. Put 125 miles on today, tighten'd bolts up. Everything seems good. Nice sitting as high as a chevy pickup

couldnt get it out of first 4 lo.. it was like the ring/pinoin in the back seized temperoraly damn I cant spell this am

I dont think it matters... On Ea82s and Ea81s I've mixed and matched starters. They all use a 3 wire system from what I've seen. A ground on the top starter bolt. Hot wire to the 17 mm/14mm nut on the starter and then a male spade plug for the "park" switch/selinoid dealy bobber. As for hooking the wires up on the tranny may be able to be avoided. I've seen a few cars rigged up to disable that park sensor because it went out and the car wouldnt start in park. Theres a thread somewhere talking about that. Maybe someone who remembers will chime in

yeah I agree with kelly.. IF everythign goes right and the t-belt covers come right off, 2 hours. Clean up the cam case where the silicone goes real good with a razor and brake cleaner. make sure you have the O-rings that go between the head and the cam tower.

Took my wagon out for another test drive.. First off I almost rolled it on a off camber hill with a 2 foot straight drop off the top. Got out of that, turned around and took the hill upwards.. bout half way up the car stopped.. lil grinding. sounded like the exhaust ripped off and was dragging. Stopped me dead.. Couldnt shift at all.. Shut the car down and restarted it and everything was fine.. Trying to figure out what the hell happened? Any Ideas?