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get me a job and and a place to live for 3 and I'll be there in a heart beat.. Soldotna sucks. There is hardly any jobs here. *hopefully* If nothing goes wrong with my car I will be in Anchorage around 9 or 9:30 am. I'll stay in Anchorage until 2 or 3 pm and then head up to fairbanks. I called my old roommate up that has my old brat and he said he found a window for his car, so save yours.. As for Jons car, I'm still debating. Kelly sounds like he has stuff to do during the day Friday and you'll be teaching?

Well, if you got the tranny, shifting linkage, plastic trim for all that. the wiring, cross member, flywheel (pressure plate, clutch) you should do fine. I've never done a FWD to FWD swap, so I'm not sure what all you'd need. I know that one of the guys on the board with a AA lifted rig, had an automatic and he found differences between the crossmember and the bracket that the radius rod hooks into.. I think it had a longer bolt on the crossmember side meaning the bracket could be different from Auto to Manual

well tightened up all the lift bolts.. may have stripped one of them, but I think its in there good enough that its not gonna come out.. might come loose but not out.. Anyone know where the tranny x-member bolt comes through the floor at? I was gonna cut out a hole and just through bolt it top to bottom. The car handles great.. I like being up higher. Even with out sway bars, the body lean isnt any worse then it was unlifted. I have yet to get it up to 75 mph though for the speed test..

Well after 2 attempts at extending the steering shaft, I got it to work. For ANYONE with manual steering getting the AA 4/4 inch lift, your steering shaft needs to be between 14 1/2 inches and 14 5/8 inches to work. The car is almost fully functional again. took it out for a test drive and I got a weird revolution based grinding (no popping though) seems like when I'm on the gas it quiets down but when coasting it gets louder. The test drive was only 2 miles at 20 - 35 mph down a gravel road. Gonna go pull a tire and figure out whats makin noises.. Anyone got any ideaS?

you wont be able to pry it off.. You need to remove the plastic trim on the A-pillar (same spot as antenna but on the inside or the car). On my GL wagon, it had little plastic tabs that pryed right off. I dont remember the size of the bolt/screw offhand, but there will be two of them holding the antenna on. And I'm not sure if the wire comes off at the oh assembly or not. But either way you can take it out of the car. If the wire has to be pulled out of the dash, black tape a long piece of wire onto the end that goes into the stereo so you have a pull line for runnning the new antenna wire back to where it goes. *note* I removed my old one but cutting both ends and just pulling the wire out. If you have any lights up on top of your car and need somewhere to run the power wires through the cab, that is the place to do it. Wire will sandwich in between the antenna assembly and the pillar and seal with silicone.

sounds like a throw out bearing or a pilot bearing. Mine has made noise both times they've gone out

I use synthetic grease. use just enough to hold the rocker arms to the valves and HLA's. I've rebuilt probably 20 engines like that and have had no complaints

yea I say look behind you. Subaru bumpers stick out 4 inches past the tail lights. you shouldnt have any problems. When you feel the bumper hit something, STOP. The one time I've broken out a tail light was when I was moving dead cars around the shop. Car didnt have an engine or tranny in it, so the front bumper was higher then my rear. My spotter wasnt paying attention and SMACK busted taillight. Thats the only one I've ever broke.

well does it fire at all? if there is no firing at all, I'd say fuel is your problem. pull off the fuel line off the carb and crank on it.. fuel should spill out of the hose while you are cranking on it

yes ground out the stud on the end of the sending unit. if the gauge max's out, its good.. I think thats how it goes.. if not someone will correct me

There is a resistor pack of some sort on that warning system. its located on the back of the taillight assembly behind a piece of plastic. A wire to that could be broke or corroded, so certain bumps will create a path for the elec, and then sometimes it could be loosing a signal. The way the warning systems work, is that resistor looks for the bulb drawing power, when the bulb burns out or breaks, it no longer draws power, so the resistor activates the stop light. hope that explains it a lil

Thats the hard part to judge. When I put my new oil pump in, I musta hit the sender wrong somewhere installing it because it didnt work when I started up. It was the working sender off the old oil pump. Mine clacked, got worse and then cleared up. Then I changed the sender. Tricky to decide what to do, run it to see if the lifters pump up, or rip it back apart. You had both orings put in the right way, didnt smash them or pinch them when installing? I've had the mickey mouse seal suck in when I was tightening the bolts one time, making the pump have crappy pressure, and the lifters clacked like hell.

put a smile on my face.. I'm going to have to do that on the cars I work on.. I'm gonna have to think of something clever...

ea82 carb - 15 in the city 20 on the highway.. quit whining

hehe I see your point.. 4 ujoints would be better than where its at now.. lol at least I could drive and steer.. now I can drive straight and then stop and kick the tires when I need to turn.. hahaha 500 mile roadtrip on icy roads is gonna be fun

thanks for the offer matt. I wish I lived in the valley.. it'd be a lot easier. I'm going to try something that might work. I think I can use the power steering shaft from a parts car with the old manual shaft.. its gonna have 3 or 4 ujoints in it, but it may work

I'm probaby going to have the welder extend out the pitch stopper too.. looks like it needs a half an inch longer to make it still work. I'm gonna run mine with out it for now I guess Sent you a PM about the steering shaft. AA told me that the shaft needs to be 15 1/4 inches long, but from what I measured I came up with 14 1/4 inches long. So I'm looking for an exact measurement of yours so I can get it done right.

well does it run like crap when its at 17 volts? if not, I wouldnt worry about it. If everything runs fine, your gauge might be messed up. Easy way to test it is get a voltmeter and put it on the charge wire comin off the alt. single wire with the ring on it I believe. hopefully somone will jump in to confirm If it does start dogging down u need a new voltage regulator (alternator) because they are internal regulators

I think you are a tooth off on your timing belts. its not a matter of 12 oclock an 6 oclock on the belts. There are notches made in the rear t-belt covers where the hole on the cam will line up with a groove int he black plastic directly about it

well thats what I said.... they said they are used up for manual parts.... godddammit sonofa***************.... ************

$$$$ is the issue.. broke til wednesday when I need to be leaving.. I think I'm just going to end up doing that. There is a whole story about this deal. they sent out ALL power steering adapters with there last lifts. After I mentioned that I have manual steering to them a few times. Now they cant get manual steering stuff to adapt it unless its ordered from japan. I Got the measurements.. they said it needs to be 3 inches longer Qman - what'ya think it'll cost to have it welded? I'm wondering if I can get a shop to let me pay them on wednesday

Thanks anyways Matt. I'm trying to find one in oregon due to time contraints.. I gotta be goin up north this week. figuring if I can get one in oregon and someone can drop it off at AA, they can weld it today, overnight it tommorow, it'll be here wednesday when dividends come out, and then I can get on the road.. I'm flat broke right now.. I may just have a shop here weld it for me, and then I can pay them on wednesday maybe

the only thing you need is a 17 mm, 19mm, 14mm, hammer, needle nose plyers for the cotter pins, and a pickle fork (used to unseat the balljoints. tierods are easy. take the top cotter pin and nut off, hit the threads with a hammer a few times, it should pop out of the spindle. just make sure you mark the threads and count the turns when you take off the old one so you get the new ones on even ball joints, take the tire off, take the 14 mm holder bolt out of the spindle (bottom right above the balljoint) now take a pry bar and pry the control arm and balljoint down from the spindle/axle assembly. once thats out, take the nut off the bottom of the control arm that goes on the balljoint shaft. now place the pickle fork under the head of the balljoint and hammer away. it'll pop out. put the new balljoint in the spindle first and make sure its seated and the bolt is put back in. Now pry down on the control arm and put the balljoint stud through the control arm. put the nut on the bottom and tighten. Some advice... buy napa premium tierod and balljoints. they are a lil more spendy, but they have a lifetime warranty on em. just save the reciepts

hey guys, kinda short notice, I need to find a manual steering shaft close to portland. It's for a 86 EA82 wagon. I need it to finish my lift. If you have one, please let me know asap. I'll need it dropped off at alliedarmament so they can extend it and get it in the mail for me Thanks

77 panel van is more like 6000 lbs man them ************s are heavy