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You should just be able to splice in a switch into the wiring harness where the old neutral switch was. I'm sure all it is is a common circuit. When the clutch is pushed all the way in, a signal completes a circuit to the computer. Ideally you would be making a neutral start cancel switch (on newer cars where they wont start unless the clutch is all the way on the floor)

Yea I'd say it'll hold up... well, I'd put a 5 speed D/R in there if you were gonna go through the hassle of a bigger motor. With 180 hp, that 4 speed is gonna have some weird rump roast gear spacing. The 5 speeds seem to be a lil tuffer to me. Less problems with loosing gears

Believe it or not, the last two times you've seen my car Kelly, its had washers on the lugs for spacers. I havent had any problems with them. I was using galvinized washers before, thats why I'm kinda leaning towards the Stainless ones. Either way, I'm gonna have to get a bunch of money together for this rim project. I didnt realize drilling rims was illegal in most states. Seems like if a machine shop can build there own rims, I outta be able to have a machine shop drill mine out. I dunno though.. Oh yea, Anchorage guys, sorry bout not gettin back to you. We came up and were gone by the time Kelly called yesterday. Financial reasons are keepin me from spending a bunch of time up there in Anchorage since all I do is spend money when I'm up there. Thank god for divdends in a few weeks.

Not true. There lots of members in the area. Use the board to get ahold of them. Milesfox isnt exactly close, but I'm sure he has parts, or knows people around your area with parts.

Well, the back bearings are a PITA to change. I've never had luck with those pounding out the bearings due to the shape of them and the thickness, they need to be pressed in and out. Not to mention you need the ring nut socket which is pretty hard to find. Since you said there isnt any more noise in 4wd I'm thinking wheel bearings even more. Pull the tire off and grab the stub shaft with the castle nut on it. If it moves at all, or has a grab or bite when you turn the shaft, the bearings are toast. If it is shot, best bet is to try and get a rear control arm from a JY or a buddy on the board. 10x easier to change the whole thing than rip apart the old one.

As long as there is +12 volts at your battery with the car running, you've got NO problems. Subaru has some of the worse dash gauges I have ever run over. I've changed 3 instrument clusters in my car in the time I've had it. Oil press slipped the first time. Temp stopped the second and the third time the voltage gauge quit working completely.

There isnt much fuel pressure to check on a carb. pull off the fuel line off the carb and crank on the engine. If fuel comes out when the engine is cranking you are fine. They only run ~3psi Oh and get rid of that damn 3 speed AT

Hill holder - dont rebuild it, find a used unit. prolly be a lot easier. If I remember correctly, the hill holder unit is built into the master cylinder right? (At the library, or I'd go check on my wagon) When you get the "new"/used master cylinder on there, leave the hill holder unhooked. With a working hand brake you dont need a hill holder. The carb mixture screw is capped off on the front of the carb. It has a 1/2" or 5/8" cap over it with a slight indentation in the middle of the cap (Might even have a slight X across the top of it.) Make sure when you drill out the cap, you dont drill into the mixture screw, or spin the mixture screw with the drill bit. I used a 3/8" drill bit when I drilled mine out. Good luck

I've done it both ways on EA81, EA82 and EJ22 soobs. Although it would seem easier to leave the engine in the car, If you have a engine hoist or a long pipe and a buddy, you might as well pull the engine. Doing so, you can spray off/scrub the engine compartment out, get all the sand and grime off the crossmember so your engine mounts sit flush and clean. Tighten up the oil pan 10mm bolts also while you got the engine out. And remember to change the rear main seal if you pull the flywheel off the crank. Good luck *Should take you less than 2 hours to do the job start to finish* -depending on your mechanic skills-

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm gettin the AA 4/4 lift. As for the offset, I was thinkin maybe 1/4" thick Stainless washers would work as a spacer on the lugs. The rims from Gravityman would work, but the shipping would kill me (being up here in Alaska.) Wish I was closer cuz those are good lookin rims. They'd look real GOOD on my wagon. Wasn't someone on the board selling drilled 6 lug hubs? That might be the easiest. Being in Alaska doesnt help when trying to find pugs. I got a JY I'm going to check this week. What year of cars am I gonna find pugs on? oh yea.. snowman's got them on his ride... hehehe sounds like an anchorage theft run tonite.. lol I'm having a hard time finding a job here, so I think this lil project is prolly gonna get put on hold. Its gonna look funny with a 4 inch lift and stock tires on it, but It'll work til I find the right rims. I just want something to allow me to run bigger tires. The tire shops here listed 190/75/13 as the biggest tire they could get me for a stock rim.

Sounds like a bad wheel bearing to me. Does it almost sound like a hole in the floor or wheelwell? If it does, you got a bad bearing. I drove mine for 4000 miles after I started hearing noise. Once I pulled it apart, there was 1/2" slop up and down on the stubshaft Easiest way to check the ujoints is put it in 4wd and go forward and reverse. If the u-joint is shot, you will hear noise as you let the clutch out (as soon as the tranny starts to spin the driveshaft.

If its not ticking, you still have oil pressure. When ever my gauge would start acting up, I change the sending unit. fixes it every time. Sounds like you need a cam case reseal and the lil o ring that goes between the head and the cam case. For the heater, get a used resistor pack from someone on the board, or a junkyard. For the window, replace the switch on the drivers side. the subaru switches like to wear out.

Massive Blowby which is caused by too much oil in the engine

K, I'm lifting my car finally. Now I'm worrying about tires. What do I need to make 235/75's fit on it? I was thinking Chevy 6 lug rims and having the hubs redrilled. Is there any other sizes of rims with the 4x140mm lugs (whatever the soob stock pattern is, I might be off a few mm) I'm gonna go junkyarding this weekend, so I'm trying to get an idea on what I should look for. I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible. figuring getting rims drilled would cost more then having the hubs redrilled and new lugs put in. Ideally I'd like to get a set of 14 inch rims, but I dont think I'm gonna be able to find them down here in Soldotna/Kenai area. If there is anyone in Alaska thats got bigger rims that'll fit a sooby, please let me know.

I gots the Hella 500's. They work alright for the price. With lights, you get what you pay for. Liteforces are the way to go especially with all the different sizes they make. PIAA's are good lights too, but they seem TOO spendy to put on a offroad rig. I was thinking about taking a High Pressure Sodium (what us fisherman call Crab lights, some call "grow" lights) get a 1000w light, but they you'd need a generator to run the thing. But on the upside, it'd basically be daytime when you had the light on

Heres whats wrong: 1. Too much oil in engine - my roomate's car leaks oil, and instead of checking it he'd just dump a quart in every few days. needless to say, when I got to looking at it, he had 8 1/2 quarts of oil in it. Made a huge mess in the airbox. 2. Plugged PCV lines (replace with 5/8" heater core hose. more flexible, cheap replacement instead of the molded "Subaru" hoses" 3. Plugged PCV valve - get one from SUBARU. dont buy any other brands. they arent worth the hassle of replacing one in 6 months or 6 days

Sounds like you fuct up a ball joint. My wagon was torq steering really bad the last few weeks, put new ball joints on the thing, and it doesnt do it any more. I've bent struts, control arms and radius arms. heh, and they are still on the wagon, still drives straight. Never bent a steering gear/tie rod though. just my thoughts..

Yeah I'd like to know what the studs are for. I'm going to need longer studs so I can have an offset plate made for the hubs. I wanna go 1/2" offset to make sure my tires dont rub with the lift

Heh, I wouldnt worry about the rotors too much. I've had a few cars that I bought, only reason why they were sold to me was because the brakes made "funny" noises. Come to find out, on 3 of them, the pads had worn down completely to the backing plate and chewed the hell out of the rotors. One rotor was paper thin on the inner surface. On Haggard, I ran it with the original rotors until a few weeks ago. I was chewin through brake pads, but they'd still work. Either way, its 25 bucks a rotor for new ones. just make sure your calipers will screw back in before you toss out the old pads. I had one caliper that was seized up, so I had to keep using the old pads til I had money for a used caliper.

I'll be up in Anchorage on Monday for the day. My son has a dentist appointment up there. I'll come to anchorage any time as long as I got gas money, so just let me know when. I'll probably have my lift kit on my the time dividends come out, and be making a trip up there somewhere around the 10-13th of october. Still no internet at the house, so Kelly or Matt, call me sometime and we can work out the details. Oh and if anyone has any bigger rims drilled for 4 bolt, let me know, I need rims for the bigger tires

Whats up guys.. I woulda posted this in the meet and greet, but seems like most peeps talk in here. So I'm livin down in Soldotna now. Any members down here that need parts or help with their cars, feel free to get ahold of me. Snowman and Northguy have my phone # so you could probably get it from them. I wont have the internet for a few more days so feel free to msg me, but it will prolly take a few days to get back to ya. Anywyas good to be back on the board. hope everyone had a good summer

thats awesome. the subaru world needs younger kids learning how to work on them. My 5 year old told me last week that he wants to help me work on my wagon next time I work on it. I let him take the brake calipers off a 96 suzi rodeo the other day. (had to break everything loose, but he did alright after that)

thanks for the info on the XT6 one not working with my xt4. I think I'm going to unhook the switch and just rig up a 3 way switch or just unhook the wires and make it so I can just touch wires to make it go up and down. One thing I did notice is that the window sags a little bit in the back of the door. Kinda making me thing that the motor or regulator is shot. Anyways, got the brakes bled out today. Thank god for subaru cross brake systems. The XT's are way harder to bleed then wagons because of the lower profile and less space around the tire and fender.

yeah it may run at 8 psi, but bump it up to 10 psi. I guarentee you are going to start blowing hg's. And if it wasn't a problem, why did they make turbo motors lower compression? wouldnt it have been easier for subaru to just make all 9.5 comp motors and just use different heads? romcat for the price you are going to pay for a JDM motor, I would just sell the soob you have now and find a turbo wagon/sedan in the US. No work involved for that. If you get a JDM motor, EVERYTHING is on the other side of the motor. You dont want to get me started on how much of a PITA it is converting a JDM motor. You are going to have to strip the motor down (intake, motor mounts, exhaust, turbo) and then get US parts to make it work. I did a JDM carb swap a few weeks ago, and I will never EVER get a JDM motor again for a soob. Too much work is involved for the price you are paying for a complete motor.

Well said John! Thats what a lot of the people on here don't realize. People have lives and have to make a living at it. Supporting a family always comes first. you only charged 500 labor on the forrester project?!?!?!?!?! That is a STEAL. 65/hr shop rate is low. Come to alaska and pay 85 an hour for shop labor. And that is base price. Add on hazardous material handling (oil/antifreeze disposal) and thats another few dollars an hour on top of the 85 an hour. I realize I've only been a member for a year and a half, so flame what I say if you want to, but from what I've saw and read on the board and on the subarubicon DVD, John is a pioneer to subaru modding. No one has lifted one higher, put LSD in a tranny, put a EA82 tranny in a 2000+ year of soobies, Among the other stuff Zefy mentioned in the post above above this one. For no schooling or training he's doin a hell of a job. Good work John, and I look forward to seeing more projects from you.