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thats an easy fix. start by using a come-a-long to a pickup truck bumper. hook it to the core support where the V is. ratchet on it until the core support bends about a 1/4" past where it needs to be (it will spring back when you let off) Now bend the middle vertical support that goes from the bottom core support to the top (has the hood latch on it) this will take a lil playing with. All you want is the hood to latch. once it latches, take the hood off either replace it with a used one or pound out the dents with two hammers (one on each side of the hood) throw in new lights and a new raid if the old one leaks and you'll be set. You can still auto X.. dents aint gonna hurt ya replacement front fenders are 65 bucks from a body shop. Getting a used hood should be easy.. 50 bucks from a JT

yeah.. it runs, so I think my boss is just going to sell it for cheap. I'd like a turbo EA82, but all the ones I've seen in Fairbanks have blown head gaskets. I guess I should plan on ripping one down and putting good copper hgs in it and changing all the o-orings/gaskets on the intake/turbo/exhaust I'd be looking for a turbo wagon with a 5 speed D/R in it. If anyone has a nice one (No rust, no dents) in the Northwest Area let me know. I could be looking for one in the fall.

ahhhh. yea this one is the same as the one in your sig, except its a 88.

Well, I got a turbo running at work.. First time I drove one of those. If they didnt have the turbo lag of death, they'd be fun cars. This turbo didnt seem to spool up until about 4k rpms. but when it did.. boom tire spin. I'd like to have a EA82T, but I think I'd have to do all the mods Will did you his engine before I'd be able to deal with the turbo lag. Only problem with the car at the shop is that it needs head gaskets. car runs fine when you are on the gas, but as soon as you let off and it idles, you can smell the antifreeze in the exhaust. eh, another project...

dragon yes timing is probably the problem. I wrecked my car this winter (drinking and driving.. one of my worst decisions yet) I did a jump. hit a 6 foot tall gravel pile at 45 mph. flew 20 some feet before I landed. Just the impact of hitting the bank that hard spun my belts. Car ran like dog************ after that. They are easy to check if you got the covers off. The passenger cam mark should be 180 degrees off from the drivers side cam mark. If those are on, check your firing order. Put #1 on TDC then pop off the disty. see where the rotor is. I wonder if your plug wires are 180 degrees out.... just an idear

Yup Brian is right. turned hard over, overstreeses the DOJ then the power popped it out of place. I had a 200 dollar Mitsubishi Montero axle (BRAND NEW) snap when I was installing it, so anything is possible! The exhaust gasket leak would cause weird idle. my wagon was acting up for about 2 weeks.. I got straight pipes so the exhaust has always been loud. got underneath the car and I had lost one of the header bolts. changed gaskets, and put new studs/nuts on the motor end and it idles like normal now. IF its a SPFI/MPFI engine, it would affect the idle more because the O2 sensor is getting mixed readings with more/less oxygen in the exhaust so its compensating to make it run richer/leaner

The only differenece is the blue topped subaru coils are made to run WITHOUT the like ballast resistor that wires into the positive on the coil A coil is a coil. Almost any coil will work, it will just be higher/lower voltage then a stock subaru one. All the accel coil is that everyone uses is a coil for a standard V8 Chevy 350. puts out 45,000 volts instead of 36,000 like the stock subaru The roomates 85 Brat is running off a coil from a 88 SPFI wagon so any of them will work

follow the yellow wire that runs down the front middle of the engine. the oil pump will be right there. under the crank pulley, behind timing belt covers

should just be the standard hitatchi carb

just an idea.. ignition fuse.. this happened to my roomate this morning.. he changed this coil and disty and it still wouldnt run.. I popped the fuse in, boom worked fine

Yes 85-86 GL wagons had adjustable struts on them. You could use them to lift the car slightly, but its going to have a horrible effect on tire wear and axle wear.. Why hasnt anyone figured out LONGER TRAVEL STRUTS? Rear coil over shocks from a 1984 GMC S-15 pickup would be easily modified to fit on the rear of a subaru. And you would be gaining travel instead of just body lift

yea the ticking is from low oil pressure. reseal the oil pump and get a feeler gauge and make sure the oil pump parts are within in spec. I resealed my oil pump 3 times before finally checking the parts with a feeler gauge and it was out of spec. And yes, you could have damaged your carb in that hit, but I doubt it. I've rallied pretty hard and never hurt by carb. Possibly smashed the exhaust shut? check that

I think you got a pinhole leak in one of the heater core hoses (going from the water pump/intake to the firewall) The OEM subaru hoses are actually pretty crappy hoses. They are very thin walled compared to the heater core hose you get at a parts store. probably poked the hose with a screwdriver or something and made a lil hole. top off the coolant, start the car up, let it warm up to operating temp and then squeeze/bend the heater core hoses. Wear safety glasses.. Antifreeze burns like hell and it will spray out if there is a pinhole and you get the hose flexed the right direction.

Kenf where at in alaska are you. I'm in Fairbanks. If you are here, I'd be glad to take a look at your car and see if I can get it to pass for you. I havent found a subaru yet that I havent been able to IM. If you arent in town, heres what you can do. Run it down to a 1/8th of a tank. Fill up with 5 bottles of heet. The Metyl Alcohol Kind.. not sure on what color the bottle is, but I'm positive on the Metyl Alcohol (same principal as running methanol - burning it creates lil or no carbon) While you are sitting outside waiting for the car to get pulled into the IM shop, Rev the piss out of the engine. Get that catylitic converter as hot as possible. This will help in reburning which means cleaner exhaust output As far as the oil leaks, if it dont leak a quart or two every tank of gas, dont fix it.. Subarus leak oil... My buddy with a 92 loyale with 40k miles on it drives his car maybe 3 or 4 times a week and he has to add 5 quarts of oil a week... I bet what is leaking is the cam case o-ring and the cam cover seals. Nothing major The oil in the intake is caused by crankcase blowby. replace the PCV lines running from the cam covers to the air intake boot (they build up oil and gunk) and then get some throttle body cleaner and spray down the intake to get all that oil residue off. and you say "lthough there is a bit of dieseling at certain rpms if the gas isnt punched hard" sounds like the valves are rattling side to side? That would be the engine pinging.. retard the timing some. turn the disty counterclockwise a lil bit and drive it.. see if it still does it. Not to be an *********************, but I think your mechanic needs to learn a few things about subarus....

Yes parts stores sell kits for repairing the copper stripes.. its a two part compound. One part copper and another part of activator that conducts electricity or some crap like that. Just ask for a rear defrost stripe repair kit (make sure they dont sell you the glue for gluing the metal tab to the window) Make sure you follow the steps on cleaning the window and the prep work. The glass has to be VERY clean for the stuff to work

My car did the same thing.. 68 mph it would stick until the car hit 80 or so and then it would work fine, til I slowed down then it would stick again at 68 and not move until I slowed down past 40 mph.. All I would do was hit the clear plastic cover a few times iwth my finger tips and it would pop the speedo loose and it would work again. Fix in the long run (after oil pressure gauge and fuel gauge quit workin) was replaced the instrument cluster with another one that was with in 4000 miles of the odometer reading (which through rough redneck math is what my odom desrepency was after 5 years of it sticking like that)

the reason why its rough at 600 rpms is because thats 200 rpms lower than the reccomended idle. the firing and ignition of the motor becomes inefficient which makes the rough idle. I'm with 85Sub4WD on the exhaust leak. We had a turbo at work that did that.. changed out exhaust gaskets and turbo gaskets, problem solved.

yeah they should definately base the fines on previous tickets/traffic offenses. 30 over when there is no other cars around you, at night shouldnt be a 3000 dollar ticket. There needs to be some form of classes of drivers licenses. Such As: Seasonal Licenses (winter and summer) Example: If you live in places like Alaska where we have snow/icey roads for 5 months out of the year the seasonal would apply to you. You must have a 4wd/AWD car to drive in the winter. Also you must do a slalom test on ice to show that you can control your car if and when you start to fishtail and/or go into a spin. For the summer license - 2wd cars are allowed. drivers must prove they can handle a car at highspeeds on a paved road with gravel on top (from when the roads were graveled in the winter) Levels of License classes like in Gran Tursimo 4 (Level b, a, iB, iA, and super) The varied levels could allow a higher leveled driver a higher speed limit. And yes, I did bring this idea up based from a Driving simulator for Playstation 2, but it seems to be a good idea. [example: I practice defensive driving. All different speeds on different types of road surface, emergency manuevering etc. I probably put 3000 miles on the ice track up here this winter. I consider myself on a higher level of driving experience than most of the drivers on the road up here. Some might say that is a little conceeded to say, but its true. the people who do the most driving and know what to do to make your car move every direction (sideways)] Anyone else with me on this, or is it another pipe dream?

lil off topic for your thread, but I love that Avatar.. I got a fever.... and the only prescription is more cowbell........... Blue Oyster Cult RULES

150k on my 86 wagon. I got a buddy with a 92 loyale with 40,000 on it.. feel bad for that car.. it leaks oil massively out of EVERY seal on the motor..

From the last time I talked to a state trooper, 25 mph over the posted speed limit in Alaska is a felony. If you get pulled over by a city cop doin 25+ over, you might as well cut you license in half before he even walks up to the car.

Right on guys.. good info. I'm gonna go get the pitch stopper bracket just to make sure. The only problem I can see so far, is I dont have the SPider intake air intake box.. I have the air intake hose, but lacking the box and the VAF/MAF

F^%K the police..... thats how I treat em.... they are bothering subarus when they could be out busting drug dealers and meth labs and what not... glad to see they have their priorities straight.

thanks for the feedback

Got a 93 Legacy Wagon with the standard tranny Ej22 motor. I need to replace the Headers/y pipe. I got found one, but its from a Automatic Wagon. They look the same between manual and auto. Will it work? or is it different exhaust for the different tranny's? I'm pretty sure legacy exhaust will work anything from 90-94 but I thought I'd ask the board.