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Thats good to hear you got it fixed Josh.

There is writeups about both cam timing and ignition timing in the USRM - Repair and Mod Section http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1

Compression test numbers - all cylinders should be with in 10% of each other. Usually EA82 numbers on a SPFI/carb block is around 130-140 psi

same here

I gotta get Rallyin racin goin on up here in ALaska. we have SOOOOOO many gravel/tarmac roads that would be perfect for rallyin

There is a few write ups about this subject that can be found in the USRM - Repair and Mod part of the board http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1

actually after looking at EA81 and EA82 side by side today at work, the EA82 carb has less stuff to take off then the EA81..

thanks again.

Alright Matt. That'd be great if you could get it in the mail to me. You still got the info correct? I will pull that spare tranny for ya today if the boss doesnt have me doin windshields. I was going to rebuild the carb, but I will try your spare first and if that doesnt fix her up, I will rebuilt the one that was on there. Also, I've got de-emissioning the EA82 carb down. Are EA81s the same? seems like th

ron - links didnt work.. forbidden..

I've seen 50 or 60 wrecked EA82 wagons and sedans since I've been livin in Fairbanks. I could climb into and sit in Any of the seats of a front and rear collision cars. The maintained the passenger/drivers space. Side impact is another story. There is 4 inches of braced sheet metal between you and the car hitting you. In a side impact, I wouldnt want to be wearing a seatbelt because I'd rather be thrown across the car then be held in a crumple zone. We have 4 subarus in the yard that are rolled. 3 EA82s and one Legacy. All of them, the roofs held up pretty damn good. maybe crumpled down 2 inches or so. None of them had the entire roof smashed. They smash to the B pillar to the front of the hood at a 45 degree angle. The windshields stayed in the car, cracked up pretty good, but solid enough you could still stand on the windshield. I saw a EA81 wagon at an auction last weekend that hit a moose. I'm guessin at about 40 or 45. Smashed the roof back, but It still had enough room to get in and sit down without having anything hit you. the windshield was popped out, but I'm guessing it was Butyl Tape from the factory window Anyways, just my expirences (my spelling sucks.. deal with it.. lol)

Just an idea.. right before my clutch cable snapped, my car did things similar to what you've posted.. Might want to try that.. 20 bucks from napa and they only take 5 minutes to change.

I got used tensioners for half the price..

I dont know about that setup. Seems like #1 and 2 cylinders are probably going to run a lot leaner than 3 and 4 because the intake necks are close to the carb on 3 and 4. Carbs spray fuel into the intake where as fuel injection mists fuel into the intake. So I'm thinking the fuel isnt going to mix right with the air because its being sprayed into a Fuel injected intake rather then being misted into the intake like it should be on a FI setup. This is probably why you lost response. Just a few thoughts.. Others jump in if I'm wrong here.

Alright, so I can't get the damn brat running right. the carb needs to rebuilt I believe. So I have a rebuilt Hitachi for a ea82 with a stripped intake. I've heard the intakes are the same, so can I swap em from EA81 to EA82? I realize the thermostat housing will be in a differnt spot and I'll have to use the EA82 upper raid hose. Other then that, what other issues am I going to have? Thanks for responding.

Matt - I'll be coming through that way around the end of May. I can come down and help swap em out.... just though I'd mention that.

Alright sounds good... I'll see what I can do. As for the swap, I'd like a 22-26 year old blonde woman prefferable over 5'8", athletic and good looking. she also has to like subarus and snowmachining. I got a dual range tranny that should be in good shape. I drove the car before we parted it. It was a daily driver. had 150k on it. I'll check the oil color tommorow and let you know.

I doubt its the pressure plate. I've done 10 clutch swaps this winter, and never paid attention to the 120 degrees apart deal. All 10 clutches worked, customers never complained. As for the oil bein black, the tranny is most likely shot. I just did a S/R 5 speed swap last week, tranny has black oil in it and it vibrated and shook pretty bad. The main bearings were toast causing the vibration. Matt - Jon is comin up here hopefully this weekend. I can send that tranny down with him I think if you are gonna end up needing it. You got my cell phone number, call me and let me know

kelly - hit the junkyards down there. Tons of chevy's in alaska. shouldnt be a problem. Get a used one, use it til it goes out (keep the subaru one as a spare) when the used GM alt goes out (if it does) bring that one in as the core for a new one

Kelly - you are right. there is an inspection plate for the fuel sender. I swapped out the sender, and instrument cluster. When I first turned the key on, the gauge went up then down up down.. drove to the gas station, topped off the tank, gauge reads slightly under a full tank. I did find that the T connector was corroded and the wire was busted loose so I spliced on a new wire. If this whole deal doesnt work out after I run this tank of gas down, I'm installing an aftermarket fuel gauge. Anyone ever do this? Have any tips?

can I access the fuel tank from inside the car via inspection plate? or do I have to drop the tank on the wagon to get to the fuel sending unito?

Alright. I will be coming down to girdwood somewhere near the end of may, so if you dont have it figured out by then, I could drive down there then. just let me know

I dont have access to either. I had both my haynes and chiltons sittin on my workstation at work and someone stole em..

to the gauge.. so pull the dash? I checked for the fuse that run the fuel height, and my GL doesnt have a fuse slot for it like the book and the fuse cover says.. there is nothing there. Is it running off another fuse?

alright so heres how it went down. the last few days I've been smelling some burning wires in my car. everything was workin fine until today. The burning smell seemed to stop and so did my fuel gauge. What I'm looking for is a online diagram of where that fuel gauge sender wire runs to. (thinkin it rubbed through on something) Anyone ever run in to this problem? my car gets such crappy mpg, and it varies from day to day so I really need to get this issue figured out. I'd like feedback from everyone with ideas and solutions to this problem. (Other then just keeping the fuel tank full) I need a working gauge