torxxx

+1 for running Subaru Thermostats. They are 2 or 3x stronger. I tell my customers you spend the 35 bucks for a subaru thermostat every 10 years, or you buy a napa one once a year and pay me each time to do it

Sounds like you have an automatic. Your rear clutch pack for the rear wheel drive part of AWD could be slipping. That or you have a misfunctioning Duty C Solenoid. Does the Power light on the bottom of the dash flash 16 times at start up? The automatic adjusts wheelspin for better traction, starts @ 90/10 Front/rear and should split to more to the rear when it senses front wheel slippage, where the 5 speed, once you get the coupler spun up it goes 50/50 front to rear.

got most of it done today and decided to stop and go wheeling. This ej18 didnt have the air injection stuff on the passenger side head. I gotta dig up a single port exhaust and it'll be ready to go. thanks for the help

theres 2 small black wires that run up the steering column and tie into the key/tumbler for the ignition cut one of the wires. works from 89.5 legacy to 99 legacy. I have not done it on anything newer but I imagine they use the same system or similar

there is differences between models as far as where the mid pipe flange (spring bolt flange) is. They rotated the way it bolted it so you may have to cut off the end and rotate it to fit and then reweld it. There is a guy on the board who makes UEL headers for your car, I'd check him out so you are supporting a member instead of a random ebay account. Its in the products for your Subaru section. What year OB is it? And is this TomsSVX from the SVX forums? (assuming so)

Did you replace the top hose? Rubber hoses wear out and will swell as they get old. If its a new hose, I would do a block test on it and and see if you are showing hydrocarbons in the cooling system. That year of engine was prone to external headgasket leaks unlike the EJ25D (95-99) which would blow internally and cause exhaust to pressurize the cooling system. how much water did you have to add? if you were down to the point of no heat, you've got a major coolant leak somewhere

it was late 01/early 02 where the cam sensor/pulley changes happened. I had a late 01 in the shop last week that had the upgraded crank timing gear and +1 on the match the AC bracket to the compressor. I've ran into issues with that more than anything else on these cars. Impreza most likely uses a different AC pump than a Legacy. Seems like every 2 years they had to change the design of the AC system, but left the rest of the stuff alone for 4 years.

not going for mileage one bit. None of my Subaru's get better than 20 mpg cuz of the way I drive. Remember 32 redlines a day keeps the mechanic away This is more geared strictly to usable power. I refuse to run forced induction because of reliability issues, but if we can figure out a way to tune the back half of the exhaust, a few extra HP makes a HUGE difference when you are only dealing with 165hp to begin with. Not to mention the ability to change the RPM that the torque curve starts. The EJ25D is a high RPM torque motor, where as the 2.2 and the EJ253 are lower RPM torque, so im thinking maybe some form of variable exhaust. as far as the two cats go, you only need the second cat if it has an 02 sensor behind it. Oh and I've noticed zero temp change with the new exhaust. Mine always runs a @#%^% hair under half temp, even when I'm holding it to the floor in a mudhole/snowbank/icetrack etc. Onboard computer may be getting replaced with Megasquirt. I have enough running rigs that I can afford to park one long enough to setup Megasquirt. That and Subaru's technology/computer logic kinda sucks anyways. Look at how horribly the AWD function is written for the 4EAT

So I decided I was tired of smelling exhaust in the cabin of my lifted outback so I had a buddy bend me some tubing up and we completed the exhaust. I left the stock manifolds on, aftermarket cat and then ditched the second cat. exhaust had ended at the tail shaft of the tranny (so all the fumes came up through the shift boot thats not there anymore. OFC I noticed the lack of back pressure. It actually made the car a big below 4k rpms. I started looking at the stock system and they ran 2" OD pipe so technically 1 7/8 ID (we use ID when doing exhaust) The mufflers on these cars gave them TOO much back pressure and I think thats why a lot of the EJ25D's suffered from the exhaust whistle ~ 3800 RPMs. it was exhaust being forced out the drain hole in the muffler. So by removing the last 4 feet of exhaust, we decided to try out 1 3/4" ID pipe from the tail shaft of the tranny down the car exiting @ at 45 degree angle right in front of the rear tire. Its cut back enough that theres no way of snagging it on a tree backing up, it had 2 solid rubber box bolt on exhaust hangers so I can still remove the system (I love how subaru put random 12mm bolt thread inserts all over the car) Now the car is a blast to drive. I'm not sure if its the correct amount of BP for a 2.5L, but its way better that stock, its got that throaty sound on accel and a nasty crackle on decel (got that good old Jake brake sound hehe). Got back tons of bottom range, actually looped out on my rally road on like the 3rd turn because normally at that speed and gear, there was no power. So here is where it comes into the tuning part of it. There is several sections in the stock system that would allow for bigger/smaller pipe. I'm wondering if I added in say a foot of 2.5" inbetween the cat and the tail shaft and then narrowed it back down to 2" down to 1 3/4" back to 2.25" then back to the 1 3/4" tail pipe would I see any performance gains or would it just be acoustical changes? Kinda what gave me the idea is they can tune the ports of an intake, and air intake volume and storage play a huge roll in how an engine accels/has power @ set ranges etc. So I'm figuring maybe theres more we can do with our exhausts to get more useable power out of these N/A Engines?

Guys need to learn about running the vent tube up into the cab

I didnt notice any any injection things on the motor. All differences were intake side, differences like where the throttle body coolant lines hook up. Oh yea, Single port exhaust, forgot about that part.. Gonna be a fun one to find, I know I have a single port header somewhere, but its buried under 2 feet of snow LOL.. We scored 5 2.2L engines, 1 2wd EAT and 3 5MT trans that all came out of running cars for a 1000 bucks @ the canadian border last weekend. Looks like I got a spare 2.2 to throw in my Loyale. Gotta love the Canucks and the rules that keep them down to very few cars in the impound yard, so they yard the motor/trans out and crush the rest of the car

what Ivan's talking about is the short valve vs long valve EJ25D. The 97/97 were the long valve motor, and the 95/96 was the short valve IIRC. ( I might be backwards, 95/96 might be the long valve) Biggest difference is the 95/96 says Dual Cam on the valve covers and the 97/98 doesnt have any writing on the valve covers. I'll vouch for the 95/96 EJ25D. It is a more durable motor than the 97/98. knock on wood, my 98 EJ25D just hit 160k with original HGs

Got a hell of a score yesterday at work. 93 impreza wagon, 4EAT with a blown 1.8L. I just happen to have a 96 2.2L EGR motor sitting on the floor in the shop My Idea is to use the 2.2 block with the 1.8L intake. Reason I'm asking is because I rarely work on the 1.8L, I'm more of a 2.5L nut. What issues am I goin to run into using the 1.8L intake on the 2.2? Am I going to need to use the 2.2 injectors or computer to make sure its gettin enough fuel or is this swap just plug and play? thanks dudes and dudettes

isnt hard shifts what we want? I love my SVX when it bangs into gear (til something breaks lol)

I spray mine down with PB blaster days before I know I have to work on them. Literally use a half a can per side of the car. One trick I did find when I changed out my bent lateral bars on my SVX is leave EVERYTHING hooked up on the wheel side. Take the lateral bar loose from the x-member and then rotate the lateral bar up and down. it allows just the one bushing to pivot on the rusted bolt instead of trying to turn that foot long bolt through several rusted bushings and the knuckle. Where are you getting your bushings from and do you have a part number? I need to get some ordered for my drivers side on the SVX, tired of that wheel wobbling

gloves? what are gloves. Been there, had the lectures at my HAZWOPER classes and my past bosses and its just too complicated to wear gloves. You lose so much feeling in your fingertips even with thin latex gloves on, that it could mean the difference between a stripped stud and the nut going on straight and clean. The chemicals you are using is what you should be worried about. I've switched to Non Chlorinated brake Clean for all my cleaning. Unless a motor is completely covered in grease, then I will bust out Super clean. Solvent tank - gloves are a must Keep this in mind, now a days EVERYTHING is carcinogenic. Hell driving a Subaru could be some day

are they just for the streets? No The Dual range RX trans would work awesome in a gravel/tarmac rally setup. I'd love to have the higher low range for rallying, since the low on a regular D/R is TOO low for use as a rally tranny. Problem with the trannys is they don't hold up to very much power. I was thinking about putting my EG33 into one of my lifted rigs but I was told that anything over ~150 hp driven semi hard will destroy the trannys. Hell 165 hp destroyed reverse in my outback 5MT, but I think that was due to 100% strictly design flaw (reverse lockout walking too far forward)

really? gonna be a cute like that? All I asked for was measurements off the forester struts.. So since this is a forester thread, kinda fits doesnt it?

yah thats what I wanted to replace. Valve covers/oil pump reseal and slap some new HGs on there. And then Front/Rear main and seperator.

so to any damage to the diff bearing you would crack the bearing preload flange thingy. It would take an almost direct side impact into the CV axle shoving the diff through the tranny. I've seen it happen one time in my life of wrenching on these cars. I bet it smoked the wheel bearing

yah so I figure the headset has to work with the engine. Its 200 bucks, might just bite the bullet. Its got all the valve cover stuff I need, If I order just the valve covers and sparkplug journal seals with grommets is like 100 bucks, so might as well get the set and have headgaskets, intake and seals. I love these EG33's to death, shame to seeing parts becoming so hard to find

wheel bearing replaced?

got on rock auto to order up a head set today and I decided to email then before I ordered.. Email I got back said that the headset I had chose was for a European SVX. I honestly dont see them making the engine any different other than the throttle body for the cable being on the side of the car. As for as gaskets go, arent they the exact same engine?

the solenoids in the trannys can screw up. Electrical part submerged in oil, they have a life just like a light bulb or a keyboard. only so many inputs/hours etc can be ran through it before it fails. As for that filter, when my 3.54 ratio SVX trans lost its high clutches, I cut out that stupid frame filter and put a loop in it. Automatics generate friction plate grit when they where, There is a screen in the trans pan for a reason. That frame filter to me, looks like a failed attempted at extra cooling and cleaning. I've ran the living P!$$ out of my 4.44 in the SVX without that filter and have absolutely no problems with it. it gets ice tracked almost every weekend and a guarantee that tranny gets worked harder than it ever did on pavement. Sorry bout the rant, but thats my thoughts on the frame mount trans screen/filter http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/4eat.pdf That is the best explanation about your tranny that is out there. From what they say, the delay "Time Lag Results: If the time takes longer from “N” to “D” it may indicate one or more of the following: • Low line pressure • Worn forward clutch • O.W.C. problem If the time takes longer from “N” to “R,” it may indicate one or more of the following : • Low line pressure • Worn reverse clutch • Worn low/rev brake" I'm rollin with your pump is dying and not applying enough line pressure for "stock" engagement. I say "stock" because it still isnt really that fast of engagement. Subarus computer logic and programming was sooooo bad in the 90s. The fact that I can flip a toggle switch faster than the duty C can shift power is a joke. Just remember its all nuts and bolts

true, that would work since its just 2 wires on a 98.. Good thinkin Legacy.. I knew we kept you around for something