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I need both seliniods on the intake for a SPFI. I found the Egr one, but the purge control seliniod. Will they work off other setups like my EA82 Carb? I changed the plugins on it, so hopefully it will work. Anyone ever do this kind of swap?

the thicker ones are better. it makes a better cushion, sealing any rough spots out. Either way, both will work.

all I do to check the engine mounts is open the hood all the way up, lean it against the wind shield.. grab the alt bracket and the oil fill neck and shake the @#%^ out of the motor. it shouldnt move but a 1/8 inch with the mount bolts tight

yup thats the best way to take care of it. Use the broken cable since it breaks at the release itsself, pop the release spring off on the passenger side of the release and then reach up with a long flathead screwdriver and hit the release lever ont he right side of the release mechanism. Unbolt the mechanism, tie the old cable to the release, run the wire across the car, thread it through the top of the marker light between that and then fender and then tie a lil loop on the end. heh, I've had to do that to 4 cars at work this week. ran out of spare good release cables.

Since you have the motor out, might as well check your T-belts. If they are cracked, replace em, and keep the old ones as spares. Might think about a oil pump reseal and a water pump reseal. Only cost ya 15 bucks and its 10x easier since you have the engine already out of the car. Does the car leak oil from the cam cases? If so, might as well pull the cam cases off reaseal those with Ultra Grey and replace the oil passage oring located at the bottom of the cam case going to the head. How many miles are on the hg's? and has it been overheated more then once? If ya got the money, might as well change em. 30 bucks a piece for head gaskets, 15 bucks for oil pump/water pump reseal. 3 bucks a piece for the cam case o ring for the oil passage. 5 bucks for a tube of ultra grey. cam seals, 10 bucks a piece. front main seal 10 bucks. 120/130 bucks you could reseal it and not have to worry about it for another 40k miles

RWD will eliminate torq steer which basically is lightening the steering. why dont you just get a rack and pinoin that has powersteering? it unbolts in the 6 bolts

oooooooohhhhhh man.. we are gonna have to burn it at the stake! yeah something like that could be arranged... when are you leaving?

Heh, the way things are now a days, whats the difference?

pay my gas to get down there any back to fairbanks, and I'll get you fixed up for the right price Stay away from AAA-Subaru. Those Commy bastards.... I've worked on 8 AAA-subaru cars... JUNK! They leave parts out, so on and so forth. They wanted me to pay 600 dollars for a used Y pipe and mid pipe for my wagon a few years back.

manual and electric windows are different. They have different rails. You will need to find a manual rollup donor car. Call you insurance company and tell them that a rock flew up off someones tires in traffic and your insurance company should cover the replacement after you pay a deductable... prolly 50 bucks. Then you get new glass, not scratched used glass

No, thats about what a water pump should cost installed. it only takes 20 minutes to do a water pump. Lets see, thats figuring out to 300 dollars an hour.. Not bad wages. Ron - the timing belts do NOT need to come off on a EA82 water pump job. pull the raid (2x12 mm bolts) remove crank pulley bolt (22mm) A little trick to doin this. make sure you have a 18 inch breaker bar. brace it on the drivers side of the pulley on the bottom of the core support. unplug the coil wire. now bump the starter. it will spin the bolt right out of the crank. (JUST MAKE SURE THE BREAKER BAR IS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AGAINST THE CORE SUPPORT OR YOU WILL HAVE A FLYING BREAKER BAR) take off drivers side timing belt cover. Remove 3/4 of the bolts holding on the center cover. now pry the middle cover open and put something in between the block adn the cover to hold it away from the water pump. if it has a mech. fan on it, remove that. before taking crank pulley and t-covers off. Now take the neck off the water pump (1x12mm) remove the heater core hose from the water pump. Now unbolt the water pump (5x10mm) scrape off old gasket, install new gasket with pump. Reverse to install.

EA trannys are tough, but not EJ22T tough. If it was N/A and you were gonna be doin normal driving, yes the tranny would hold up. But a Ej22t stock or with mods, is gonna spin the gears out pretty fast in a EA series tranny. There is a few threads goin around right now, how people toasted EA trannys with EJ motors. Someone burned out 2nd gear, on ice....

keep it if you want a reliable engine series.. EA81s are bomb proof. 350 bucks for a lift, 500 for tires and rims, A lil hijack, Ross - where is that rear suspensionm adjuster on a Brumby?

I gots go get me one of those.. looks like a blast

damn. I woulda liked to see dyno numbers @ 20 Psi+ you woulda gotten into 265+hp at the crank I think. Yes you did prove a good point. I want a turbo now, and a lot of money to build a wicked ice racin rig

Whats the highest boost you ran on that motor?

since its a carb, unplug all the vacumn lines except for the one that goes to the firewall, brake booster, secondary barrel on the carb and the choke vacumn line. ALL THE REST, CAP OFF You dont need any of this stuff. Its all junk. The car will run better with out all the I/M crap. Then again, if you have to pass emissions, dont do this

I was wondering the same thing. I did some generic dynamatting on my hatch lid and it cost like 30 bucks fora 18 inch wide x 4 feet chunk. whole car seems pretty spendy. was it worth it in noise reduction

Alright Matt. Thanks a lot man. I'll let you know. My roomate isnt going to work today, so we are gonna go down to the shop and try to get a spare carb, if not you are on.

fuel filter was replaced in January I'm kinda leanin towards carb problem now too. I got it running good for about a minute. it cleaned it self out, rev'd to 5k, and then when I started to actually move, it started sputtering, then I'd have to hold it to the floor for about a min and it would slowly stumble its way back up to 3k. Will my EA82 spare carb fit on the brat?

Well the problem continues with the brat.. I got another disty for it, installed it, and it will start now, but only wide open, and it runs like crap.. wont rev past 1200, sputters, blowin bad brownish/blue smoke. Ideas??? I'm gonna try another coil and see if that helps. One thing I did notice is that there is a bunch of unhooked wires on the bundle coming off the fuseable links box and the wiring harness near there. Anyone have a wiring diagram for under the hood? '85 EA81 4 speed man no A/C drivin me crazy cuz its my roomates car, and I'm really gettin tired of drivin him to work everyday. I got a notice from my landlord, that my subaru parts make the yard look like a slum. I dont get it. Theres enough stuff to build one engine, and maybe the suspension for one car. Thats it. He said I can't have more then 4 spare tires in the yard. So I gotta get the brat goin so I can haul stuff to the dump. Thanks in advanced to anyone who responds

I would do 2 inch y pipe to 1 3/4 after the Y to 2 inch for rear diff, back put a muffler in there somewhere

it dont matter where the engine is at firing wise for the seals. The cam gear only goes on one way so you dont ahve to worry about messin that up. A lil trick for gettin those seals out.. get a self tapping screw and screw it into the seal, DONT NOT SCREW ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE SEAL! Just enough so you can pull on it with a claw hammer. they will pop right out. specially if they are leaking. For installing them, I use a little tiny bit of synthetic grease around just the inside of the seal. Make sure you get OEM seals (subaru probably holds the patent on the exact size for the motor) meaning aftermarket stuff will be slightly bigger or smaller.. in 10th's of a mm the only thing on a subaru motor that needs to be torq'd is head bolts.. the rest of the stuff, tight works just fine. gotta get the feel for what the different size of bolts should be tightened to.

Wal-Mart... 17 bucks for a digital multimeter. I own one of them. Very useful, and pretty tough. its been in one of my mobile toolboxes for a few months and it still works great.

thats cool as hell.. I'd LOVE a sooby diesel. Please post if you find out any more info.