torxxx

k well pull the disty from the car.. remember the exact position of the rotor, so when you put the disty back on the car, you get the timing right. Now turn the disty by hand. It should spin without and binding, rubbing or grabbing. IF it does, the bearing/bushings are bad in the disty

I'd go with the legacy springs. newer style suspension is better then old.

alright dude.. you've started 4 or 5 threads about the same thing. I told you a few times now to replace the seals in your oil pump and that if that didnt fix it to replace the pump. If you are going to ask questions here, START Listening to What people tell you to do.

is the cel on?

alloy wheels would save a lot of weight. prolly at least 5 lbs a wheel. I'd leave the back seat in. The bottom of the back seat weights about 3 lbs. Run with a 1/4 tank of gas. Right there you just saved 70 some odd pounds in weight

they develop a light tick if the mickeymouse o ring is ripped, cracked or sucked into the pump.

it sounds like a belt thats not tight enough. If you are running a single belt, they have to be VERY, VERY tight or they will squealing noise. for what you said you have pulleys for, you should have dual v belts on it. I'd start there. cracked, or worn belts will also slip and make noise. Is the water pump leaking? when the bearings go bad, the tattletail one will usually leak coolant. Is this car a EA81, or EA82?

you just gotta know the right crackheads..

ahhhh thanks matt. damn that means shes gonna have to go on the jenny crack diet for a while... or I could just get a lift and put 33 12.50s on it and that should get my numbers a little closer

That is exactly what I'd do pyro. Then you can eventually get new bearings in the front spindles and reinstall them. I always run with used parts before new ones.. Its cheaper that way, ya know? Or yes, I'd rebuild the front end. its actually not to spendy. 25 bucks a balljoint for the napa performance ones. tierod end 40 bucks a pop. new bearings are 65 a side. 30 for brake pads and 30 for new rotors. keep the reciepts from the axles, they will be lifetime warranty.

do a search.. there is a thread from about a month ago about this topic

run a new power wire. use a quick splice connector and hook it to the radio power wire or something else thats on the fuse box. pull off the plastic trim on the A pillar on the drivers side. Now you are going to need to get a piece of seisemic wire (its stuff like bailing wire, but its a lil thicker. They use it to hang the guides for tile ceilings. Run that from hole in the head liner for the light, over towards the A pillar on the drivers side. This may take a lil time and patience to get the seisemic wire to the right spot to where it will stick out at the end of the headliner, but its worth it and will save you the hassle of wrecking or folding the headliner. Once its to the A pillar, tape the wire to the seisemic wire. now pull the wire through.

I'm guessing a wheel bearing. when bearings start to go out, they gather more resistance to it would act like the brake was dragging, which would make the car pull to the side with the bad bearing. Could be a bad balljoint too, but I think you would notice that a lil more. they seem to make the tire side to side.

I'll post pics as soon as I get em. I think I'll have it by this weekend. The good news is its titled, registered and tagged. I'll be able to insure it and run it on the highway to get out to the mud flats The guy took it to a weigh station and it weighed in at like 2250 lbs. so with that weight and the size of the tires. air em down and I should be able to drive on the ORV trails. can't be more then 8 PSI downpressure on the ground. Anyone know the equation to figure it out?

I disagree with the post above me. I've worked on many subarus and have done a lot of front and rear end suspension work. The older subarus dont really need to be aligned if you are using stock stuff. I've changed out 2 sets of front struts and 3 sets of rear struts without anything getting worse. If anything, the tires seemed to wear better and lasted longer. I'll let you in on a lil secret for doing tranny swaps and pulling the axles. DONT DISCONNECT ANYTHING. all you do is punch out the spring pins on axles, then turn the car hard over one way, pop off the axle. turn hard over the other way, and you'll be able to pop the axle off the other side. You may have to use a pry bar to get the axles all the way off, but it will work. I've done that on EA81 and EA82 cars. Saved me a LOT of time

I dunno about the iridiums, but I know bosch platniums run too hot. I'm changing mine to a colder plug here this week.

So a friend at work asked me if I wanted a sooby for 50 bucks.. instantly said yes. come to find out, its the buggy I rode in this winter. its a 85 hatchback (EA81) all the metal fenders, doors etc. have been removed. the front and rear bumpers were cut to make the car shorter for in the woods. It has no lift on it, but its running 28 inch tires. The guy used tubed steel to make an outer body support, and then cut up pieces of that 1/4 inch thick plastic bedliner to make wheel wells, fenders etc. You can take a full swing with a baseball bat and not hurt this car. Comes with a steel front bumper with winch. Can't wait for the mud pits to thaw out. This is gonna be one dirty soob.

pyro - k heres what we are going to do.. we are going to take this word, piston slap and send it to the new forums. these old cars dont usually have piston slap. replace the oil pump seals and if that doesnt fix it, replace the pump. enough said

yeah a spfi with stock timing should run fine on 87 octane. You could have just got a bad batch of gas. Happened to me on my last road trip. (Yesterday) pinged like hell til I fueled back up with 87 octane from the same company station (different location)

yes a lifter will still tick without spark. they are ran by the cams/valves moving

over time, the rotor wears out due to impurities in the oil. This ends up leaving too much of a gap between the rotor and the engine block. This means lower oil pressure, which causes the HLA's to not pump up, or be able to maintain their pressure. I resealed my pump 3 times with no luck of stopping the TOD. That's why I said replace the pump if it was out of spec. If you have the pump off to reseal anyways, why not run a feeler gauge on it and see if it needs replaced.

do a search for it. Its been done, and there are threads about it. The only difference it makes if the donor is auto/man 4wd/2wd is the fly wheel. manuals have a flywheel, where autos have a paper thin flywheel and a torq converter. If you are gonna do the ea82 swap, put a 5 speed manual out of a 85-89 GL. Dual Range, is the only way to go. You'll need the Driveshaft from the EA82 donor

ea82 motors dont usually have piston slap. Sounds like the TOD... Reseal the oil pump (If its within factory spec.) or replace the pump. I replaced my pump about a month ago. If yours has never been changed, its about time for it. 20 year old oil pump.

I've never gotten over 25 mpg in my car.. Contributing factors are: my 100 lb gas pedal foot.

awesome dude. lemme know how it all works out. you just listed out all the problems I have from rallyin my 86 wagon