torxxx

hmmm musta been when I didnt have the internet at my place... I seriously do not remember seeing a post about it. So my bad. Thanks for clarifying

Happy birthday man

So a bunch of stupid *************** dont happen again, What linked to the site is The Subaru Junkie's, and what is the boards? Maybe highlight or bold the links that are his, so people dont store stuff on his site, thinking that its the board's site. Really sucks when you lose the only copies of some cool pics

they will say they dont have them, but take the old one in and size it up with some metric o-rings they'll have one that is the same size. I had to go through that same crap with the waterpump neck tube o-ring

not true about the crashing with newer cars. My buddy T boned a Ford Taurus last winter at 35. totalled the Ford, I drove his car to the shop to be parted out. still drove straight. They are pretty strong structurally. They could do it as a limited edition type of car. Like a 50 year aniversary car or whatever.

subarutheless's brat drivers side front end is messed up.. axle and hub/rotor are stripped, wheel bearing is toast. Will EA82 parts interchange with the brat? N/a of course. I was thinking using the EA82 spindle/hub/wheelbearing dealy bobber on the brat. with the ea81 axle. will this work? need fast answer, its gettin dark.

How cool would that be? IF they kept the cars just like they were when the stopped making them. Or even kept the same body style and simplicity of a EA motor and tranny. Think of it... A 2005 GL wagon. GL/Loyale body style, 5 lug 16 inch rims with the new style suspension, d/r tranny, ea82 engine, new style interior I'd buy one. Hell it'd be a 10,000 dollar brand new subaru that would run for 30 years...

hehehe.. sedans suck! just kiddin.. wagons are just more practical. you loose a lot of cargo space in a sedan. And they look a hell of a lot better goin down the road then a sedan

k I just went out and checked on mine. that spring pin in mine looks like the axle spring pin. try usin a 3/16" roll pin punch and punch it out from back forward. there should be enough room to get a small hammer down in there. I'd soak it with some deep creep first, get things lubed up and broke loose and it should come right out

from my trials and tribulations with ea82 5 speeds, they ARE 100x easier to work on with it outside the car. or even drop the crossmember and let the tranny sag down. thats like 8 bolts you gotta take out. 4 out of the driveshaft at the carrier bearign and then 2 or 4 for hte tranny mounts. The piece you are talking aobut is right next to the tranny dipstick correct? If its leaking there, I think you cracked your tranny. These trannys dont usually leak oil from anywhere except for the rear main seal and the front diff seals.

old news man.. I posted that url a week ago

Yeah, I'ma have to say Loyale too. They'll run to 300,000 miles if you keep oil in em and dont overheat it. They'll drive 85-90 mph all day every day. I'd say go for a GL wagon just because of the dual range tranny. Simpler design, tougher tranny. Those single range push button trannys seem notchy to me.

I looked at legacy seats a few weeks back at work. They are wider railed seats, so you'd have to make the adaptor everyone is talkin about. I think you could get away with usin 1/8 inch flat bar steel. measure everything up, and just have a machine shop cut and drill it. then bolt her up

mine does the same thing. what I ended up doin is letting it run on high idle for only a few seconds and then step it down and let it dead idle.

yes there is a difference. the 1600 uses a 7 1/2 inch disc. EA81 uses 8 inch and EA82 uses something likea 8 1/2 or 9 inch disc. A rebuilt kit for a EA81 is 135 bucks A rebuilt kit for a EA82 is 185 bucks That comes with pressure plate, clutch disc, alignment tool and pilot bearing. I almost guarentee he got oil on the clutch disc. If he did everything he said he did, that'd be the only way it'd do that, unless the disc came from the factory like that.

thanks for the quick answer. they are bosch platniums so thats prolly why. they always have been said to run a lil hot. I'll have to back the mixture screw out a lil then huh?

hey guys, I left my damn haynes manual at the shop. I'm at home comp testing my motor. got the plugs out. tips are kinda greyish/white. Motor is running lean? Comp #'s are #1 - 138 #3 - 150 #2 - 136 #4 - 140 number seem good..

no that wont make a clutch wear out in 500 miles. I drove my car for 2 months with the hill holder disconnected, and the return spring disconnected. The mechanic got oil on the pressure plate or the clutch disc. That would make it slip and burn up. Its his fault.

dump in 6 bottles of yellow HEET with a 1/4 tank of gas and drive it hard before the test. get that cat nice and hot. it'll pass

Heat and muscle. The only way you are gonna get it apart. My first rear axle that ever got changed on my wagon was 4 years ago. IT took 3 days to get the passenger side rear axle off. And 3 bottles of Mapp Gas and and 5 lbs of propane. Lots of busted knuckles, but it'll come. Another trick, kinda dangerous, when you get it heated up, spray some PB blaster on there. it kinda vaporizes and it helps it creep into those tight spots. OR just swap out the whole rear suspension. take off the two trailing arm bolts, pop the inside pin on the axle, undo the strut and drop the whole assembly

I'm pretty sure they are the same size. I've done the conversion from turbo wagon to reg. wagon and turbo sedan to wagon and didnt notice a difference.

Ice race it. short, light car. get a set of tires with big lugs and put 4 wheeler ice studs in the tires... you'll fly

you guys are gonna laugh... I figured it out after he blew a fan belt. It was the belt. One of those V belts with no teeth, it was slipping, and not charging the battery. the coil musta been usin enough power to drain it when he really got on it. New belt from my EA82, thing drives like a champ.

SPFI Conversion or you could put the motor together without the AIS system. That is the only thing that is missing from a SPFI head. then you could rig the AIS system sit where its supposed to with the hoses going to the air box and the AIS silencer and metal pipes. If you dont have to pass an under the hood inspection leave it off. It probably wont make that much of a difference

nothin special cut off the exhaust a foot ahead of the rear axle and had em put 2 inch where the muffler used to be. thing sounds killer. he put some extra bends in the pipe. I think that helped the sound. Made the power a lot smoother. I wonder how it'd be with 1 3/4 for the last 4 feet?