torxxx

Its all good Matt. Nice job on taking the state tournament. We need to plan an april meet down in the valley or anchorage. I wanna do some rallyin down there. I think I can get ahold of my buddies EA81 Trashwagon.. then we could have some real fun

Well we had the first real fairbanks meet today. Snowman, me, Slipsquad, Subaruthless (new member just joined) went out to the local ice track made some laps. got some pics from it, but I gotta get the film developed.. I'll post em later. Nice to see a new legacy sliding around the track. Nice ride Luis Then we went out on the bombing range ice road and did a lil rally racin. Snowmans lifted rig handles really nice goin through the whoops. Then Subaruthless and his balls to the wall driving really made for a good day.

some of the ej motors are 4.11 rear diff ratio a manual ea82t will be 3.9 auto ea82t will be a 3.7

stop complaining. j/k I've got a EA82 that gets 14 mpg. I'd love to be getting the mpg you guys are getting.. :-\

TOD wont kill an engine.. Unless your oil pump stops working as long as the oil pressure gauge moves, you are fine. I drove my wagon for 3 years.. VERY hard driving and then threw a new pump on it.. runs like its brand new

sounds like my 5 speed. IF you are going over 5 miles an hour, gotta rev it up to 4 grand with the clutch in to get 1st to engage..

welcome to the world or hicrappy carbs... Mine does the same thing. Runs great right about freezing temp. Time for the SPFI upgrade. Good thing snowman is coming up here, and he doesnt know hes getting conned into doing the conversion on my car

22mm

On EA82 you can run it where the antenna comes out. You can still do it if you use the antenna. Pull the trim off the inside of the pillar, unscrew one bolt, pry the antenna bracket out a lil bit, push the wire through, use black urethane to fill in the gap between the bracket and the pillar. Then run the wire in the plastic trim above the top of the doors. run a small bead of urethane down in that trim channel. You wont be able to see the bead if you make it narrow enough to go all the way to teh bottom

its a subaru.. as long as the oil pressure gauge needle moves even a 1/4" when its running its fine

yeah it is about that easy. the only thing is there is a certain way way to do it. you gotta take out the inner bearing before the outer bearing. Using the 3/8" extention because they have rounded corners on the tip, and they are pretty soft metal, so you can be fairly rough with em. Make sure to have brake parts cleaner on hand to get all the old grease out. You want the inside of the hub completely clean. If you are gonna do it yourself, heres some tips to speed things up: Before you do anything, take the cotter pin out of the castle nut and loosen the castle nut. 36mm socket and 2 foot 1/2" drive breaker bar. Also break the lug nuts loose. Jack the car up, put a jackstand under it. Take the tire off. Take the bottom bolt out of the brake caliper (14mm.) Lift the caliper up and slide it off the stud and set to the side. Now take off the 2 17mm bolts that holds the pad holder on to the rotor. Take the castle nut, flat washer and the conical washer off. Slide the rotor off. Take the cotter pin out of the tierod castle nut. loose the nut a few turns, hit it with a hammer to pop the tierod out, then take the nut all the way off. Take the 14mm bolt out of the bottom of the hub holding the ball joint loose. (You wont be unseating the balljoint from the control arm, just taking the hub off the top of the balljoint) Now hit the control arm a few times with a hammer. The hub should pop off the balljoint. Put the castle nut back on half way and use a block of wood between the nut and the hammer. A few wacks and the axle should slide out of the hub Take the 2 14mm bolts out that hold the strut on to the hub. Now you can do the bearings. should take you about 10 or 15 minutes to get the hub off the car. 20 to do the bearings. 15 to 20 putting back together. Make sure to use all new cotter pins and to torq the castle nut to 150 lbs and you should be good to go

LMFAO OMG that is great.... that takes the cake... a lot better then canadia

yeah those numbers are fine. You ARE supposed to crank it 4 or 5 times to get a proper reading, because when you started, that piston may have already been half way up the cylinder. As long as your numbers are above 115 psi you are fine. Hell I drove a loyale sedan home last week that had 0 Psi and a bent valve on the #1 cylinder

the airpump itself weighs about 15 pounds. With the AC lines, the whole system prolly weighs about 30 pounds. It lowers fuel econ by about 10% if you use the A/C. Northwet - yeah it may be illegal, but so is running a car with out a cat. how many people do we have doin that here? Just vent it out... crack the 4 12 mm bolts on the airpump and walk away from 10 minutes.. DO this outside. Freon is deadly, I had a friend die from exposure this summer on a fishing boat.

2500 in Alaska

oddcomp... the subaru mad scientist...

the bearings arent that hard at all.. If you have a 3/8 inch extention, and the 36mm castle nut socket and a hammer you can change the bearings. It is VERY easy. Use the extention to tap the old bearings out, grease the new ones, put em in with the 36mm socket, tapping on the outer race going around in a circular motion. Toss the dust seals on and you are good to go. I did one of mine on the side of the road. 45 minutes When you pack the new bearings, use synthetic grease. Bearings will last a lil longer.

man, I'm really gonna have to do mine now... I got the donor car sitting at my shop, I just havent got motivated to do the conversion.

front crank seal....

lets keep this in mind... Subaru's leak oil. A drop a week is nothing. a buddy of mine made a 800 mile round trip road trip and he used 10 quarts of oil. Now thats a leakin sooby... If its on the passenger side of the motor, you probably spilled a few drops of oil when you added some last and it ran down the motor at the headgasket seam. I've chased leaks all over these engines and they dont always come from where you see it dripping. As long as you check your oil every time you fillup at the gas station, you'll be fine. No use in 60 bucks worth of gaskets and 2 hrs of time.

90% sure you got a vacumn leak somewhere. Check the back of the drivers side strut tower. Between that and the hood hinges, there is two selinoids. make sure they are all plugged in. If its not leaking there, check the line going to the heater controls (passenger side strut tower) If all those are fine, check the vacumn line going to the drivers side of the tranny. There will be a diaphram thats like 4 or 5 inches in diamter. That is what runs the 4wd.. Also did you try hittin the 4wd button with the engine rev'd to like 2500 rpms? if it turns on with it rev'd up, that would confirm that it was a small vacumn leak (like a crack in a vac line) Hope this helps

EA82s should all be open. All the ones I've seen at work have been. For us skinny guys, reach up from under the bumper on the drivers side of the center support (where the hood latch is) You'll feel the arm with the spring on it. leave the spring on, just pull on the lil arm stickin out. hehe, I did that for two years until I broke my grill out jumpin through snowbanks.

yes its a good idea to jack up the front of your car, or park on a ramp. This procedure is very boring and takes a while and a lot of standing around watching. After you get the front of the car up in the air, start the car and let it run with the heater off for now. AFter a few minutes crack the raid cap and top off the raid. Let it run wtih the cap off now. slowly add antifreeze as you see the air bubbles coming up through the fill neck. squeezing the hoses will also help move the bubbles. Wait until your elec aux. fan kicks on, now turn your heater on high heat high speed on defrost. Keep filling up the raid, as the level drops. Keep doing this until you dont see any more air bubbles popping up through the fill neck. I've had some lucky with burping systems by just driving them hard with the raid cap only half way on. It always the bubbles to escape but it keeps you from blowing coolant back out.

a sheet of white teflon would would too. Its stuff we use on the bottom of airboats. The stuff is tough as hell. I watched my buddy drive his airboat down a gravel road doin about 25 mph. They are getting like 5-7 years out of this stuff. its kinda spendy, so I'd just get like 2 4 foot pieces. Just enough to get under the frame rails, front and back. Anywho, aluminum isnt going to eat up asphalt. its not hard enough of a substance. we drag stripped cars in and out of our shop all day and it hasnt hurt the concrete yet.

sounds like one of my projects. if something can go wrong, it will. When I did my clutch job, I ended up with engine on the floor(stripped to the heads), tranny on the floor and rebuilt the drivers side of the car. Being my only legal car, and the fact that I was at work doing it. Really made me put it back together FAST