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you dont "need" the device. There is always a way around Subaru tools. The idea behind their tool is to hold the cams in place while you do the test. You can always get a motor turned over to where each cylinder has closed valves. You can test the intake valves with the exhaust valves open. I've never bothered with Subarus 900 page guide on checking valve clearances. Simply look at the cam lob, make sure that the cam lobe isnt putting any pressure on the shim/bucket/spring etc. slide the feeler gauge in and see what #'s you get. If you came up with 180 all the way across the board, with the engine cold and warm, and it passed the dollar bill on the exhaust test I myself would say the valve clearance was probably ok. 04-06 was a bad year for subaru testing Active valve timing, does your motor have that on it? Just brought up a thought about a motor a customer gave me for free because he swore it had a bad valve, came down to one of the actuator arms for the active valve timing had cracked, and it wasn't opening the second intake valve correctly and causing a misfire

not sure about that though, Phase 1 DOHC N/A Pistons are dished. The 99 2.2L used a domed piston IIRC. 2000-06 2.5 were flat top pistons But that WOULD explain why EJ25D headgaskets are so frigging thick and the 2.2 and EJ251 and EJ253 used the thin gaskets Im intrigued now, heading to work to investigate

I'll look and see if I have any Phase 2 4Eats @ work when I get there if I do I'll tear the rear cover off and get you some pictures. One way to verify if the parts are the same is call up a dealership parts department and ask if there was an updated part from 03 to 04. Generally they kept the internals the same unless there was an issue and it needed an update

define "passed compression test" Not tryin to talk you down, but I've had customers tell me oh I had 130 Psi on one cyl and 180 psi on the other 3.. that does not "pass" 10% within each other is generally considered spec. If you can post the numbers it'd help a bit. I wonder if Cabaroo or Calebz (I cant remember which one it is) is still around your area, IIRC hes a turbo hound, might be able to lend a hand. When I say bucket/shim you can either see your valve spring or you cant. If you cant see the valve spring with the valve covers off, its a bucket/shim lifter setup. I wouldnt really put the car on a dyno to monitor the systems, if you can find a board member that lives close to you and has a decent scanner, Live Data stream is all you really need. Once its plugged in drive the car normally and make it act up and have someone watch the numbers. Data stream generally shows whats going on. Harder part is finding someone who actually knows how to fully use their scanner. Oh btw, do the dollar bill test on the tail pipe. Just hold a dollar up to the end of the tail pipe and if it sucks the bill into the exhaust, you've got valve issues. Oh yea and my bad on the coil pack info, I forget that the newer forced induction run the coil on plug setup like my SVX. before you run out and buy a 100 dollar coil, I'd see about finding a good used one to use as a test unit. Electrical parts generally arent returnable, so if it coil pack doing it, you'd be stuck with a spare. Sorry for being short and a little messy with my explanations.. Its early and I have not partaken in my safety meeting yet

99 so thats a DOHC engine, you didnt mix up your Left intake and exhaust pulleys did you? It would keep your from running since your cam sensor pickup magnets are on the intake pulley. And my rule with any/all Subarus is you disregard the plastic notches are reference marks. All EJ engines use the 12 o'clock position for their intake cams. exhaust on a DOHC always points the single mark outwards @ a 90 degree angle (9 or 3 oclock depending on the side) The plastic timing covers tend to warp from heat (usually a sign the engines been overheated) so your reference marks and actually move 1 tooth. Brings me to a funny story about my buddies shop. Big ASE certified arrogant asshat that drives and owns 3 subarus got a 1995 impreza 2.2 in the shop yesterday that jumped time due to tensioner failure during -45F cold start. Took him all day to get it put back together and he used the arrows instead of the dashes.......... took the shop owner coming out of his office and getting dirty to get the thing running. I guess it goes to show, ASE certs and 2 big 10k dollar Mac toolboxes still cant teach a guy to put a timing belt on right. Just sayin, it happens everyones done it once

opposedforces.com OE diagrams, might have a decent enough picture for ya

+1 for piston slap I'm wondering if you got whats technically a 99 2.2L block? 98 on back were not prone to piston slap. Yours sounds just like my mom's 01 Legacy, and shes driven it for 40k+ miles with that same noise. Dealer verified it was piston slap and said drive it. Its a subaru engine anyways, they were meant to be driven til a rod plays peekaboo out the top center of the block

not really as far as the coil goes, you could Ohm it would but other than that, I dont know of any other test. You would show misfires on 1/2 and 3/4 the way those coils are paired together. Only time I've seen 2/4 or 1/3 misfire was when someone dropped spark plugs and smashed the tip down to the electrode. They can noid light the injectors to make sure the pulse is occuring @ the right time, and they can remove the injector and check the spray pattern. But you are paying them Diagnostic time, and coming from working at at shop where techs got paid by book time/commission they will ream you on the diag time. I would check your valve lash, its something you can do @ home in your driveway with a 10mm gear wrench and a set of go/stop feeling gauges. If there is a valve out of adjustment and it is the bucket/shim style then take it to the shop and pay them to fix it. if its the old nut/screw style (which I doubt its DOHC and turbo) fix her up your self. Exhaust should be .018mm to .030mm Intake .015mm - .025mm on MOST subarus. Forced induction may be a little difference

good to know about the EJ251 and EJ253 blocks, I never did bother checking piston height, I just know the ones I built for customers were 00-06 EJ25 small block with Gen 1 long valve 2.5 DOHC cam heads and I always used the thicker gasket just as a safety measure. So why is it that the EJ251 and 3 headsets come with 2.2L head gaskets in set? Or are you talking about running EJ22T headgaskets (from what I remember they are the thinnest out of all the 2.2/2.5 gaskets?)

its that same part/location you are talking about, its just the Phase 2 uses a speed sensor on the extension housing, where as Phase 1 utilizes the same spot from 98-05. I did some digging around on opposed forces and it looks like there is a seal that installs from the outside that hides the internal snap ring. wooohoo more new parts I gotta buy. I tried my hardest to get the seal out without destroying it and its either ruin the snap ring or ruin the seal to get it in. Back to the second half of my question, are we able to mix/match extension housings? I may just throwing this tranny together without the speedo shaft in it and just put the block off plug back in it, the goal is to get a tranny built enough to install so I can move the car around from my shop to home while I get the original trans rebuilt. I'm hoping it just took out the reverse lockout gear,

yes, just make sure you get the correct length. All my Subarus get Marine post battery terminals and I use marine battery cables, they seem to last longer than the automotive ones. You'll end up with a ring to ring Negative cable that will for the 12mm bolt that holds it down @ the upper starter bolt bracket and then the other ring fits directly over the marine post (terminals will have wing nuts)

in a way, you didnt really build a frankenmotor. That involves 2.5L bottom end with 2.2L heads. What you had done was basically upgraded your block, the Gen 2 N/A block supposedly had better designed rod bearings than the 96-99 DOHC (prone to #3 rod knock, and I say this because I've split the block on over a dozen of them just this year alone, and they were all #3 rod bearing failure) I honestly don't see you actually "gaining" power, unless you ran thinner head gaskets and raised the compression. 2.5 N/A block is a 2.5 N/A block the only real power making difference would be the shape of the piston tops. Where the Gen 2 2.5L makes more power would be the 05-07 with Active Valve timing, and even then I I dont think its makin more than a few extra ponies

Well my fun with 5mts continues. Got my front diff setup changed out in my 05 Trans, its ready to be put back together except for the speedo shaft/gear. I was able to get a speedo shaft out of my old case but that snap ring that goes in the inside has got be a bit confused. I honestly cant see how that snap ring comes out. It appears that a seal gets hammered down around the speedo shaft but how in the heck do I get that center snap ring down in there? And while we are on 5mt subject, can I use the Phase 2 front half and run my Phase 1 Center diff and extension housing? Only reason why I want to do this, is because I have a welded Phase 1 diff that I'd like to run, and looking at the Phase 2 it doesnt appear to be "serviceable" like the phase 1 diff

can someone get my friend unstuck... LMFAO I dont know how many times I've heard that in my lifted subarus... You aint stuck til the motor blows

Yea, I'm not too knowledgeable about the Phase 2's, other than that they are a hell of a lot easier to service solenoids since they bolt up between the pan and the valve body I just read over my FSM tranny section and from what I can see, Duty B is the one that controls it. The circuit is setup very similar to the Duty C but it uses 2 power (communication wires) and and a 3rd resister wire. But then again I'm sure Subaru had to completely change the system/wiring. Oh btw after I read ur post yesterday, the SVX did the lockup stall 2x leaving work. Since I added my center diff lock button, im wondering if a lot of these tranny issues people have is from bad grounds? Sorry if this dont make sense, its 6 am and I yet to have my morning coffee and 2 smokes

86 GL wagon - 650k+ on body stopped counting the miles when it turned into a full blown trail rig last year 92 SVX - Just hit 200k yesterday And she still outrips most soobies on the ice track. 98 OB - 160k miles but shes lifted and gets driven like shes stolen. prolly more like 250k miles on it with me driving

2000-2004 uses 99% of the same parts. Subaru used a 4 year system on their body styles/designs. They even ran the harnesses for options on a lot of cars, even if the car didnt have say heated mirrors, tweeters that sit by the mirrors, Sub under the seat, heated seats etc. Compass, I think you just need to run a power and ground wire to it, which can be piggybacked off the map light power wire. Suspension you are gonna have to look and see if the rear runs spacers like they did on the Gen 1 Outbacks. I have not done a Legacy to Outback conversion on the Phase 2 yet, but since its double wishbone in the rear, I imagine you run the Outback Wishbones, swaybar links and struts.

Fill the upper radiator hoseto block first, no bleeding needed if your are running an Subaru thermostat

Find a Electrical bearing/drives shop somewhere in your area. We have one up here and they have yet to find me a Subaru electrical part for a starter or alternator. 90% of the parts are universal parts used in other import electrical parts

very easy repair. 8 or 10 14mm bolts and that tail shaft housing comes off. Its actually easier to do than a timing belt, or a tuneup

Subaru does sell OE parts for rebuilding axles here in America, I remember seeing the bearings and cages available. Not sure in your location. When you say bellows, you mean the boot? If thats the case they sell replacement boot kits. If you have other spare axles or can find any one who has spares with blown outers and good inners, you can just swap the shaft out and put the good ends on.

Chux - Do you have an early or a late 99? Basically what I'm asking is Phase 1 or Phase 2 4EAT. isnt there a way to get to the lockup wire to the computer and either power it or ground it? Should be able to mod it like I did for my center diff lock to keep the TCU from spitting codes. I'm getting my SVX FSM out right now, to see about disabling my lockup. Pm me if you wanna go back and forth via text, might be easier than doin the forum thing

Rusted cars are mean to be jumped and put through the tree run test. Thats how we do it up here in the north. Once rust starts, unless the car was $30K+ when it was new, we spray can the rust spot til we cant stand it anymore and then it goes into a weekend rally car. Oh and dont worry about what other people think, a car is a car, they can eat a bag of rocks Now on the serious note: Get some stuff called Osphaul (the spelling might be off, but it say the word exactly how I typed it, a paint store will know what it is) its used to eat rust off steel, we used it a lot on the commercial fishing boats I worked on when I was younger. Spray it on let it sit for 20 min and then Paint over it with POR-15. That combo will 100% kill the rust. You might get lucky and find a color of POR-15 that matches your car ( I think they make 3 or 4 diff colors now)

If you dont already have one, invest in a Power Probe. If you cant afford one, borrow one from a friend. it makes these electrical issues so much easier and saves a ton of time.

One thing I will suggest since you are blessed with a 2.2L dont pull the radiator. just remove the fans. There is more than enough room do do a belt/seals etc. One big thing on those 2.2L is take a good look at the crankshaft where the keyway for the timing gear and crank pulley attach. if it appears our of "square" (its a rectangle shaped groove with a half moom cut into the crank) replace the keyway and get some metal epoxy or a welder and get that keyway fixed. I've seen a lot of guys do the entire job (me included lol) and never look at that. Get it all together and not tighten down the crank nut to 150 lbs or w/e the spec is and you've got a way bigger issue