torxxx

http://www.truckstuffusa.com/slimwinviswi.html there ya go lots good stuff I'd send em an email and tell em what kind of car you have and see if they woulld make some for you. or if not, get dimensions of different models and see how that match up with the dimensions of your ride.

First off, stereos in cars and trucks is a fun, but spendy hobby. I noticed that I've always wanted a louder stereo with more bass. Up until I was going through an alternator a week. You are going to have to upgrade the elec charging system via battery cap, dual batteries, higher output alternator. (If you are going above 600 or 700 Watt amps) Do you have a aftermarket CD player in the dash? if so, take it out, or get access to the wires. There will be a blue wire. splice into that wire for the remote wire. You can use 16 to 20 gauge wire for that. For the power wire, you need something like 4 to 8 gauge wire. You will need about 20 feet of it if you want to run the wires under the carpet or floorboard trim if its a wagon. Hook this wire the positive slot on the amp. Take a 30+ amp fuse holder and hook it between the positive wire and the battery. Take another short section of 4 to 8 guage wire for the ground. You want you ground wire as short as possible. I use one of the bolts for the rear seatbelts. Its a fairly big bolt, so look for a big O-ring connector. Now you need a pair of RCA cables. They will run from the AUX or Subwoofer outputs on the back of the CD player. plug the other end into the amp. Get speaker wire of your choice. Remeber thicker wire with stereos is better except for signal wires like the remote wire (acts as a switch that turns the amp on, and then the amp is powered by the positive) Hook the positive on the battery back up, test it out. Another thing, cd players, speakers, subs and amps are something that are worth putting money into. Just make sure you do soundproofing along with the stereo modifications. Subarus rattle like hell with a loud stereo in it. Find some Dynamat or sound proofing sheets and soundproof the car. Do the whole trunk if its going in a trunk. If its a wagon, do the back hatch under the trim panels, under the carpet, under the head liner above the back cargo area. All this can be done and the inside will still look normal if you take a little time and dont break any of the plastic. Good luck, lemme know if something doesnt work

its a 87 carb'd... only one fuel filter located before the fuel pump in front of the passenger rear tire. Do you have to pass emissions down there? If not, strip all the vacumn lines off the carb and intake. get caps that fit over them. they sell them in sets. the blue ones and red ones were the ones I used. 1/8" and 3/16" I believe. just make sure any line you take off, you plug off. You should have two or three vacumn lines left when you are done. One for the cabin heater controls, one for the egr valve, one for the vac advance on the disty, and the 1/2" brake booster line. they rest of the stuff can go. there is one line that runs from the firewall to the evap cansiter, that is a fuel tank vent. that needs to be left open Now you have a happy carb, and a engine that looks ALOT cleaner and everything is 10x easier to get to. pull the fuel return line off the carb after trying to start the car. does fuel spill out of that? if so, you are returning too much fuel. pull the fuel line off and crank the car. fuel should spill out. It doesnt spray out on a carb'd car. if you got fuel when you crank on it, your fuel pump is working. if not go to a you pull it junkyard.. fuel pump fits in your pocket, go in to get an light cover or something off a car and pull the pump for free. a vacumn leak would make your car run like crap when its cold.

well thats one of the downfalls of subaru. considering the wires are 17 years old, but still. they used wire with too thin of insulation, they used crappy copper untwisted wire. Put any of the wires in the cold and slam them in the door on accident, or push a fender in so it bends the wiring harness and the stuff snaps on the inside of the insulation so you cant see the break. They make this stuff called arctic wire up here in Alaska. Stuff stays bendable at -60 F. They use actually rubber insulation like spark plug wires are made out of. its expensive, but I've though about having them make me a wiring harness for my car. prolly cost a 1000 bucks, but the wire would outlast everything else on the car.

exactly miles..

pay the plane ticket and I'll fix it...

EA82.. carb it just so you dont have to rewire everything EA82 carb should switch right over and wire right in with your old stuff..

thats about how it is here. all my friends call me crazy..... I'll pull an engine in this temp is the $$$ is right... OH well.. the car is running.... wonder whats gonna go next...

I outta start a club for people who've worked on soobies outside when its colder then -25F. Its -40F right now and I just got done with the 10 minute timing belt swap... broke my right side belt... thats what I get for using belts found on the floor at the shop.

my gauge just had -15 PSI of pressure this morning for 15 minutes of warming up. Yeah it is -40 outside... maybe thats why

Listen to MilesFox. HE knows what hes talkin about . Open covers are the way to go. some members will say that you'll get oil or antifreeze on your t-belts.. yeah you might, but it will just spin off any oil or antifreeze that gets on them, instead of oil/antifreeze leaking into the covers and spinning around inside the covers and constantly recoating the belts. to what Tom63050 said about the waterpump pipe. - if you ever take that out, you HAVE To replace the oring. they are a one time use oring. you may get a second use out of it, but its gonna suck when the oring finally goes and you crack some heads because you didnt change the 10 cent oring 85Sub4WD - "the hard part is getting the crank pulley bolt off. (and it really isn't that hard if you put a screwdriver in to lock the flywheel." This is the EASIEST PART OF THE JOB. put a 22mm on a 1/2" 18 inch breakerbar. on the crank pulley bolt. now brace the breaker bar against the core support on the driverside of the car. (where the raid sits against on the buttom) now unplug the coil to disty wire and bump the starter for about a half second. Done deal....

In the US - DL's = single range 4wd GL's = Dual range 4wd XTs - single, dual and fulltime 4wd? RX - fulltime and dual? Loyale = Single range 4wd Dual Range is the way to go. single range tranny seem to be geared a little bit higher then a dual range. I've never liked any of the single range 4wds I've driven. they made dualranges in the us until the end of the 89 year models.

you have a short somewhere in the wires going to the headlights or tail lights. soobies run on a circular system. it starts on the the front side of the car, goes to the taillights and then back up the other side headlight. a few months ago at work we had this happen on a EA82 wagon. took 3 days of chasing wires. start with checking the pigtails that run to the marker lights and then to the blinkers. they usually go bad and will make this happen. Save yourself some time and get an Ohms meter and a test light.

one thing to remember is the subaru stock intrument gauges SUCK. They are some of the most inaccurate gauges I've ever seen. If you had no REAL oil pressure, 5 minutes of running your engine and it would have seized. the HLAS woulda clacked like hell and rods woulda started knocking. the sending unit either went bad, or the sending wire got broke or unplugged. Oh yea the sending wire is yellow and it ties in with a wire going to a intake temp sender

weathershield.. lets see in american terms that would be the visors that would go on the door frame? to keep water out of the window edge when its cracked? I think Chevy/GMC s-10 ones would work, but you'd have to stick them on the A pillar due to subarus lack of door frames I've been thinkin about the idea for a few years, just never got around to sizing them up. pretty sure a ones for a small truck (s-10, ranger, dakota sport) all would work with a little bit of trimming.

62 mph = 3000 rpms in 5th gear.... I got the stock exhaust system with a gutted muffler (cut open, removed contents and welded it back up leaving some small holes) pulls great from 3200 to 5500 RPMS

Welll I picked up a 250 dollar 86' GL wagon. with a fresh rebuilt engine and a brand new hitachi carb. two minor dents in the car, no rust. 159,000 miles on it. new snow tires, new exhaust from the catback. As soon as I get the title crap taken care of, time to sell for 2 grand and then use that money to buy a clean body to lift finally..

hey guys, I got a really wicked vibration coming from the back of the car. I'm thinking its the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. thinking its developed a wobble. My rear diff fluid looks good, I just changed it 5,000 miles ago and added some posi track additive cuz it helps with chatter. Anyone got any ideas or comments on whats goin on with my car? My throwout bearing is starting to go out, but I dont think that has anything to do with the vibration. could I be wrong?

yup kelly is right on the sooby price.. my boss sells EA82 GL wagons any day of the week for 2000-2500 bucks... alaska market value is a lot higher

Goodyear Ultragrips work great. I'm currently running BF Goodrich Trailmaker plug tires (studable, but I dont have any in em) And my old Brat had Pacemark High Tractions. All three are good tires

I use Bosch Platniums. The ones that are 1.99 a piece. I've had no problems with them, and I've put 10,000 miles on them. Several 400 mile trips. I've got them running in the Brat that I sold to my roommate and he hasnt had any problems with them either. The heat range thing is nice to know about. I think I'm gonna go get a set of colder plugs.

Lightforce lights. They make all different sizes, up to I think a 15 inch light. They come with different colored covers for the lights too. the light blue looks awesome. Lightforce are so bright, you could get away with 4 inch lamps no problem. put the 100 watt bulbs that 4wdfrenzy said and you'll be set

ummm yea thats pretty much what I just said.. and whats this butyl tape you speak of?

take off ALL vacumn lines except for the ones running the ERG valve and selinoid, the cabin heater, brake booster. You dont need any other of the vacumn lines if its a carb'd intake and have a manual choke 85sub4wd - "like the anti-backfiring valve I just remembered that carbed cars have - you don't want to disconnect that!!" - not true. the air injection system SUCKS. doesnt make a difference if its plugged off. My wagon runs great with a damn near completely stripped carb. All cleaned up, I think it looks better then a SPFI intake manifold, and everything is more accessable And to clean it up a lil more and make more room, get the SPFI air intake part of the system. the airbox and air boot that goes to the injector. it will fit over the mouth of the carb with very minor trimming.

so, dont wrap stock headers either with exhaust wrap? I've been thinkin about doin it from the header flange to the cat.