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Soobies are glue in front windshields. You could cut one out with a razorblade and long knife, but the right tools make it 100x easier. Make sure you get the new molding (black and chrome rubber that goes around the window) they are glued in using Window Urethane. Its black stuff (nasty stuff) It HAS to be Windshield grade Urethane, or you WILL have leaks. After you get all the old urethane off the windshield spot, if there is any rust anywhere were glue is going to be put, you need to get this stuff called pinchweld primer or the urethane will not stick to it. When applying the urethane, do it in a V with the small part of the V pointing upward at you. The bead should be about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Install window. Take two 4 inch wide pieces of masking tape (use the bright green stuff, sticks anywhere.) put two strips on the top of the windshield to the top of the cab. this will hold the window up in place until the urethane sets up Now squirt a very fine line of urethane all the way aroudn the windshield edge where the rubber molding goes, install the rubber molding, and take sure you masking tape ALL the rubbing molding down. leave the tape on for a day or two to make sure all the urethane cures. One other thing, leave one of the door glasses slighty cracked, so when you slam the door, the cabin pressure doesnt blow the seal out of the urethane. Good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions. I work at a glass shop

buy all the new gaskets and seals you'll need. new cam cover seals with the rubber edged grommets for the outer bolts. two o-rings for the oil passages between the camcase and the heads, new head gaskets, hi temp ultra blue silcone for the camcase to head seals. new intake gaskets, new exhaust gaskets (the thick shiny metal gaskets) the oil pan gasket - get from a subaru dealer. I recommend using all subaru oem parts/gaskets Tools needed: 10 mm socket/wrench, 12 mm socket, 17 mm deep well socket for the head bolts, 14 mm deep socket for the exhaust nuts and the engine mounts ( I suggest pulling the engine. it only takes about 10 more minutes to lift the engine out. trying to do headgaskets on the disty side is diffcult because of the lack of room on that side.) For installation, you will need to torq the head bolts down 3 times. 27, 43 and 47 pounds. a chiltons or haynes manual or the FSM has the diagram of the tightening sequence. Since you have everything off your engine now, you might as well reseal your oil pump. there is a round o ring and a mickeymouse shaped o ring good luck.

I take it this thing has custom axles in it? stock ones wouldnt be able to handle that much travel would they?

performance ignition coil (Accel or MSD) 8mm spark plug wires bosch platnuim spark plugs free'r flowing exhaust cone filter (ditch the stock airbox) EDIS conversion Get a 5 speed Dual Range tranny from a 85-89 GL wagon

welcome to the board. so you have it fixed now? is not, my suggestion is get rid of the drum brakes. find a turbo wagon in a JY and get the rear disc brakes off of them. take eveything off down to the control arm. should be caliper, pads, rotor, rock shield and brake line. they are WAYYYYY easier to deal with then those damn drum brakes. prolly pay 30 bucks for em and for the rear control arm thats messed up, same thing, but get it for a non turbo wagon. comes off in two bolts, an axle pin and a 17mm strut bolt.

pop the elec choke off the carb. I think its two rivets and a screw. wrap a piece of bailing wire around it, run it into your cab, make a loop on the end. no to use, push pedal in some, pull choke, start car. when you want the choke off, tap the gas pedal thats the 15 minute 1 dollar way

man, I gotta start readin more different threads. or someone msg me when thers a meetngreet. I prolly wouldnt have been able to meet it anyways,, coil burned out this weekend, along with two flats so now I'm running diff tread tires, and my 4wd is binding up.

carb'd automatic - bad big tires - even more bad.. I'd say 12-14 mpg with the big tires

should work, but you might run into problems when doing the rear end because of the lack of a rear diff and mustache bar.. http://www.ozified.com shoot them an email and ask em

you can feel it in the pedals, and hear it. it sounds like valves rattling really bad when you accellerate. you know when you shift from first to second and in second gear @ like 1200 rpms it sounds like its about to lug out? thats what pinging sounds like. another way to tell if you are too advanced is when you are starting the car, the engine will kickback on the starter.. it will crank a few revs, and then stop and it sounds like you bumped the key twice. that is when its way too advanced.

well considerign you are in ohio, I'd run 15W40 with a quart of MMO.. but thats just me.. I'm in alaska, and its been -50 F on and off for about a week and I run 5w30 no problems whats the temps dipping to at night down there.. if its not gettin colder then 20 F you can still run 10w30. if its getting colder then that run 5w30 or mobil 0w30 but the mobil is like 7 bucks a quart.

I'm pretty sure its the same kind of setup on the brake light system. somewhere in the shift linkage there should be a push button switch type thing that when you put it in reverse, the linkage pushes on the push button, turning the lights on

timing light on a sooby.. unplug the vaccumn advance, set to 800 rpms, hook the pickup wire onto the number 1 spark plug wire. point the gun with the trigger down at the hole in the bellhousing where you can see the marks. the flashes will show a line where your timing is 0 means 0 degrees timing.. you have a SPFI EA82 so yours should be @ 20 degrees

dammit kelly, why do you always have better advice? I hear the engine pulling competition coming on faster and faster..

you said the cel went off.. did you reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery for a minute? if you didnt the check engine light shouldnt have gone off.

it takes more energy to burn higher octane fuel thats why you have noticed a drop in fuel econ. Those mods shouldnt require higher octane fuel. I installed a Accel coil (45k volts) and 8 mm wires and I still run 87 octane fuel. retard your timing slightly and that will get rid of the pinging. you could have gotten a bad batch of gas. Up here in alaska, bad fuel happens all the time. I filled up with 90 octane one time at tersoro and I've never heard my motor ping so bad. Running higher octane fuel allows you to advance the timing some, but you get up too high and that craps gonna start detonating and you are gonna have major engine problems Next time you change your plugs, get bosch platniums. they outlast the ngk's by years..

egr selinoid..... look for code 34 on the ecu

paint it dark blue, have have white pearl and metallic added to the paint then do white pearl in the clear coat.. it'll look awesome

I've pulled one out with one other person and we used a piece of 1" solid steel rod and a tow strap.. just tie the strap in to the rod and lift. Engine hoist is the way to go though. One person can pull an engine in about 25 minutes with a lift

rickdog - try not replying with the picture in a post. it makes it slower for us 56k guys to download the thread.. thanks

if it is the bearing, you can keep driving it for a lil while.. Its just a matter of time before the bearing seizes making you get into an accident because one of your back tires locked up while going 75 mph down the freeway..

yes they usually go out slowly. I've been driving on bad rear axles for a while. this is the 2nd winter on them. clunks like hell with some weight in the back of my car. wheel bearings are more of a hollow grinding sound. Your rear diff could have no oil in it. I had water in my rear diff earlier this winter and that made for some interesting sounds. climb under the car and make sure the pins are still in the axles. one could have worked its way out and the spline shaft could have worn down the DOJ female end on the inner part of the shaft.

what cars came with the ej18? I'm guessing impreza sports?

sfckenyon - try not to reply with an attached picture thats already been posted in the thread... makes it even longer for pages to load for us 56k guys..

well I did that on a 94 legacy wagon. it involved taking out the seats to get to some of the bolts.. this may be different on a forrester, but I know some of the screws that hold them down are in the middle between the seats under the ebrake handle.. should be a plastic cover that you pop up giving access to the screws. When you get it loose, it will slide straight up. Just take a flashlight with ya and look under the seats, see if you can get them out without pulling the seats.. take your time, you'll find em all