torxxx

morganm - sounds just like the dealers up here.. bunch of idiots at the dealer here too.. I went in and asked the head service guy if he knew anything about making a 3.9 rear end into a LSD 3.9. He said no, why in the hell would you want to do something like that.. hahahahahaa stupid people make stupid babies, and then their babies make more stupid babies with other stupid people.... spreads like a virus

I ended up driving 10 miles, not using the brakes even once.. got it freed'd up and made a run for it.. took me a few hours to dig up a new rotor and caliper out of the snowbank..

same here.. I've had it with my carb.. I solved icing problem, but I'm only gettin 15 mpg..

alright anyone wanna make a guess at what it was? the inner brake pad wasnt anywhere to be found.. I just changed the pads this fall when I rebuilt the front end. The caliper piston was making up for the missing pad.. it ate the hell out of the rotor. I've never seen anything like this happen before.. There isnt really a way for the pad to fall out once everything is in place and bolted down is therE? I'm thinking because my rotors are warpt, the pad wore down abnormally and it basically ate the whole thing up including the packing plate.

ARRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG I just found out I left the top of my toolbox (with the sooby tools) at work last night. I didnt get off until 10:30 pm so when I left, I left running.. well I got the car moved.. it wasnt the hillholder.. I'm going to make an attempt at getting it down to work. 8 mile drive in Ice fog (visibility about 100 feet). should prove interesting. cant tell if its the wheel bearing that seized or what.. shouldnt be they only have 15,000 miles on them and they are packed with synthetic import wheelbearing grease. oh and I just got a flat tire.. so I gotta change that before I attempt this adventure... at -41 F....

awesome.. thanks for the reply.. goin to check it right now. will post an update in 3 minutes

[quote name=phishy75 If it's thicker than 5W30' date=' your going to leak a little more, but that's the price you pay for living in an igloo:lol: . [/quote] Musta made a typo.. if its thinner than 5w30 its going to leak more.. thicker oil leaks slower, but in the cold is harder on engines

went out this am, got my car on the highway, hit my brakes and now my drivers side brake is locked up.. cant move the car.. almost got sideswiped at 55 mph.. car is sitting sideways in the road.. what do I have to do to get this brake unfroze? if I cna get it to the shop today, its getting a new used caliper and rotor. both are @#$^ed up.. any advice anyone? my car is blocking the drive way

well since it leaks oil, you are going to be paying to dump it on the ground 6 bucks a quart is a little too much to be doing that. Trust me, its a lot colder up here, and my sooby starts every morning with 5w30 reg oil and just a block heater. Get a pad heater. they are orange. clean off your oil pan really good with acetone and use some hi temp silcone and glue the lil bastard to the oil pad. they make all different sizes so there is one that fits the sooby oil pan perfectly. I have just set one in on my car between the skid plate and the oil pan, and it helped out alot. Just run 5w-30 oil with some MMO in it to help thin it out a lil more. That block heater does make a HUGE difference. just keeping the block warm, helps keep the oil warm. my car started after only being plugged in for 2 1/2 hours this am.. and the temp was -45 F

warped rotor...

for the exhaust, do 2 or 2 1/2 inch straight pipe from the Catback.

if its flashing on a half second off a half second at the check engine light in the dash, nothing is wrong. That means system ok, and it part of the test mode. Unplug the white and green test connectors under the hood and it should fix the problem. To verify nothing is wrong, after you do this, look at the ECU for codes. There shouldnt be any

Yes it is possible to slowly cook the alternator. When I make my trips down to Anchorage (375 miles) I've cooked 3 out of 4 alternators. Its weird, it will make it all the way down there, and then its after the car as cooled down, that the VR in the alt goes out. I still havent figured out what makes it do that. I can drive all day every day in the city, but as soon as I make a road trip, I blow an alt..

2wd doesnt have a driveline...

sounds you got a bad connection somewhere in the charging wires.. you get driving and the wire shorts out, stopping the alt from charging the battery. The voltage off the alternator should be up to 14.4 volts I believe.. car battery runs at 13.4 Vs so only charging 12 volts would make the battery slowly die. quick revs means more spark, more volts used off the battery, thats why its dropping when you quick rev.

sooby automatics are know for being gutless.. its a DL so I'm pretty sure thats the 3 speed AT. Those things are horrible.. As for the not moving when its cold, check the AT fluid. could be low. all a automatic tranny is, is a built up hydrailic pump. low fluid= low flow and pressure.. change the fuel filter. that could be causing hesistation.. so could bad plugs and wires. my car looses coolant like yours and I'm leaning towards a leak in the heater core. do your windows have a flim covering (inside the car) them that makes it hard to see?

yup fram does suck. Fram = parts to be used on Honda's LMAO

If your engine leaks oil at all, dont use synthetic. you are just paying more to dump it on the ground. For a filter go with a purlator pureOne filter part #24457 best filter on the planet

word... kelly u got my info eh? if not, call me and I'll give you the rest

1. take the oil pan skid plate off and raidator out, unhook heater core lines 2. disconnect the exhaust - 4 14 mm nuts 3. Look back about 4 to 6 inches from where the exhaust bolts where, there is the cross member. look around on the parts where it slants up, there is two 14 mm nuts (one on each side of the block. 4. take a floor jack, lift the engine up by the oil pan (put a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan) jack it up 2 or 3 inches. 5. now grab the engine by the oil fill pipe and the valve cover on the other side of the engine and pull forward. The engine should slide right away from the tranny. 6. change clutch 7. do steps 5 through 1 to install

that is a problem I ran into on my first turbo project car. I had the wiring harness There is one harness that had the disty wire connector (crank angle sensor) alone by itsself running into the main wiring harness. The other one has the disty connctor, knock sensor and a ground that goes on the bellhousing. What year of car is the motor out of? To make it work I think you'd have to get the disty off the same year car as the wiring harness donor. Then I think there is a wire that you can splice into in the intake harness for the knock sensor. I will look when I'm at the shop tommorow and let you know what I find out

yeah it definatly could be a computer problem. The block I used was from a manual tranny. it went in a automatic tranny car. I dont remember what all pieces I used from what, but everything looks like the same year car that I used as a model for building the motor. I ran into a bunch of problems with the intakes because they were different years. The intake gaskets are new. Now about the Turbo unit. There is two coolant lines on the top and one on the bottom correct? And then one oil line coming from the bottom of the engine, bolting the top of the turbo correcT? To check for coolant and oil flow I'd just unplug the coil wire, unhook the lines and crank the engine over? Timing light.... damn this means I might actually have to go buy one.... I usually just time then by turning it up til the valves rattle and then back it off a lil bit.. These turbo motors are sure harder to work on then my good old carb'd ea82. I wanted a EA82T for a long time.. dont think I want one now.

I've been pondering this idea too.. I was thinkin a 10 lb bottle.. dry with the fittings tapped into my intake manifold.. but I'm not too sure on what all will happen...

yeah its got a lot of white smokin comin out the back.. Acting like a blown head gasket, I checked the heads before I put them on, they didnt have any cracks (none between the valves) new head gaskets, torq'd to spec. No misfires, it just has no power until the turbo is at full boost. My N/A EA82 will outrev this turbo on the bottom end.. Another thing is that the engine flooods it self.. I went to start it today, and it wouldnt start. when I unbolted the turbo, gas poured out of the turbo. Something there is making me wonder. So advance the timing some and try it? and/or richen the mixture a little bit? that would be the screw at the back of the intake manifold correcT? screw it out to richen?

k, well the turbo is boosting like it should.. It didnt glow red today, but its still smoking on the front side of the turbo. I think theres a coolant leak on the intake side of the turbo thats blowing antifreeze into the intake. The car runs like crap until the turbo kicks in and then it boosts great. wont rev past 5500 though. I'm gonna go pull a turbo unit tonite and slap a different one on there and see if that makes any difference. I disconnected the downpipe pounded on it, nothing came out so I hooked the air hose to it, air blew threw it fine. So I think that rules out plugged cat. The wastegate moves like it should, but when its running and I moved the wastegate linkage, nothing changed. Is this normal? Oh yea, dont touch the turbo after the cars been running...:mad: burned the hell out of my wrenching hand.