torxxx

welcome to the board... hit me up if you ever make it up to fairbanks

alright. well I'll check that stuff out.. its hard to drive the car, because it has no power when the tranny is in gear. IT revs about the same as my N/A EA82. They problem is my boss let his monkey of a step son work on the car when I was gone at xmas, and he messed it up pretty good. the old turbo had a bad bearing rattle, so he has the monkey change the turbo out. Skip - where would the boost gauge plug it to? The only reason why I was revving the piss out of it, was to try to get all the crap out of the cylinders. she was smokin pretty good during the inital start up. I did notice that I cooked the metal gasket between the turbo and the downpipe, so I'm gonna have to order another 20 dollar gasket from the dealer. goin to pull the down pipe off now, and beat the hell out of the cat.

my car did the same thing today... I drove it all day.. went out start it about 5 pm, and it would idle but thats it. the fuel lines froze that fast.. I rolled it into the shop for a half hour while I went and got some HEET and it started when I came back.. Temp. being at like 10 F and then going to up 30 F or so is enough to make them freeze up..

so I finally got my turbo project car running at work today. After all the cooling problems it was having, it runs. I was revving it up to 5 grand or so, cleaning out the antifreeze from the cylinder from the head swap, and my buddy noticed the turbo was glowing bright red. I know nothing about how hot turbos run, but this seemed way too hot. Anyone have any ideas on what would be making it heat up like that? I think the cat is plugged up, my boss says the wastegate is stuck.. help please.. thanks

they also make a splice in heater that goes on the bottom raid hose. They dont work as good as I internal block heater does, mainly because its just heating the hose and the surrounding water, instaead of actually heating the block, but theyh do work, and they take about 10 seconds to install if you have a razorblade handy.

alright well I will ask at work today. I work and a auto body/glass shop that specializes in subarus. My boss will know. Oh yea, and GL's are rope in windows. well at least the 3 that I have pulled the back side glass out of. They are rope in windows because of chassis flex. If they were glued in, they'd crack like the WRX rear glass.,

by some hanook, bridgestone blizzaks are nokian tires They are all good winter tires. The driver on snow and ice, is what makes the difference. If you dont know how to put your car into a skid at 55mph and get out of it, you shouldnt be winter driving plain and simple. With Soobies you need to Power into a skid. DO NOT USE the brakes, except for a little tap to get the rear end of the car going the other direction. As for the laws with snow tires, they are usually allow seasonal. Like in alaska you can run studs from Sept 15 to April 15th. If you do get chains, ONLY use them when you have to. The wreak havoc on everything around the tire. I've snapped brake lines running chains thats why I dont use them. The whole weight in the back thing is kinda minimal. The only thing in the back of my car is a tow chain and a tool box. The biggest thing is getting use to your car on ice. Go find some and practice.

well if your tires have more then a 1/8" inch tread differenece it will make the rear diff bind up.

you win the burnt clutch of the month prize.

Goto a Junkyard and find a good back hatch off a loyale. As long as its not baby blue, the colors are pretty much the same from GL to Loyale. If your car is white, black, grey, red or yellow the paint colors seem to be the same for the years. they changed blue in 88 I believe.

yup miles is right. The TOB will pretty much only go on right one way. The clips wont snap down if its in backwards. The ears that the clips snap into should be on the tranny side.

I had a car was working on that did the same thing SPFI engine from California. Ended up being the EGR selenoid. use the ECU for codes.. thats why they put em on the car

hehe.. yeah we can do that. but keep in mind kelly, that I pull 4 or 5 engines a week at work. God I love my job... too bad it didnt pay better. 100 bucks a day for turning wrenches seems a lil cheap

I got 6 years out of a napa clutch. and thats with 3 years of ice racing, and pretty much fully out rallying every time I drive my car. Carquest or Napa have pretty good priced clutches. the last one I bought from them was 135 bucks for the whole kit. PP/disc/pilot bearing If you wanted a good one, bring in a burned clutch to a drivetrain shop and have them remanfacture the clutch with kevlar pads. I think I was quoted 150 for a kevlar disc. I've never used one, but I've heard only good things about them

Syonyk - yeh I pulled the engine all the way out. figured I had to lift the motor anyways to the get engine mount studs out of the cross memeber, so I just lifted it all the way out.. only makes a minute different, lifting the engine up and setting it on the front clip. you can drop the tranny to do it, but it seems like more work and a PITA for one person to do. I dont know about you, but I hate lying on the floor doing work. I'd rather have it up on a table. Matt - Carquest or Napa, full clutch kit, 135 bucks up here in fbks so prolly 125/130 down there. the kit comes with clutch disc, pp, pilot bearing and I think it had the throwout bearing too.

I'm going to have to try that way next.

well my clutch finally ate it this morning on the way to work. new disc/ used pressure plate. The old clutch has gotten so Hot that it turned the springs and everything around it bright blue. hehehe I took her out ice racing for 20 miles last night to see if it'd make it.. well it did Took me an hour and 25 minutes. From driving the car into the shop, pullling engine, change clutch, back out of the shop. How long does a clutch job take the rest of you guys? I'm trying to get an idea, so I have a time to beat on my next clutch job!

you are getting burned. I was serious when I said the clutch kit was 125 bucks. and then 250 for labor? that figures out to 71 bucks an hour.. damn I wish I made that kind of wages at the shop

not too spendy.. clutch kit comes with disc and pressure plate.. for like a 125 bucks. I just did a clutch swap today.. took 3 1/2 hours

needlenose visegrips are perfect for this.....

All-talk is right about the carboard over the raid. It does work with the thermo closed. The 205 degree one that I'm running, never opens during the winter. take the cardboard out, car is colder the #^&*. Cover the ENTIRE raid ( a 12 pack beer box works perfect, just the right size), car heats up like normal. I leave the cardboard in until about 25 F above zero.. Then if the car does get warm, the aux fan will suck some air through the raid, even though its covered.

hmmm.. well is the car loud? if its coming in the vents, it makes me think the exhaust is leakin near the cat.

Welcome to the board.. What part of alaska are you in?

I disagree with the having to be a OEM subaru. I'm running a Chevy 350, 205 degree 54 mm thermostat, with no jiggle pin, and I've actually had LESS problems with overheating and what-not since the chevy thermo went in. As long as its 54 mm, and it works, it will work on a sooby

I went into the local dealership today to get my oil pump reseal stuff and I argured with the parts manager that my 86 EA82 has the SAME oil pump as a loyale. He swore up and down that they were different. so we looked up the diagram on the computer of a 1986 1.8 carbb'd EA82 wagon. It shows an oil pump I've never seen before. so I have him look up a loyale.... boom, theres the right diagram and seals and all that. Funny how a manager of the ONLY subaru dealer with in 350 miles could be wrong about an engine that they sold. Not only wrong, but to have their parts computer (with a parts program that I'm sure other dealers are using) have the wrong parts. He told me that the 1600 and 1800 OHV and OHC from 1980 to 1989 all had the same oil pumps, and that the loyale had a completely different pump. I think I'm going to get him fired. Must suck to have a 22 year old guy tell a 50 year old to his face that he is wrong, and hes a #$%@#^ idiot. All and all, I got my seals I need (well, they are ordered) for 12 bucks. They should have given them to me free for teaching them something. Oh yea, dont shop at the Auto Service Center in Fairbanks Alaska...