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get 5/8" heater core hose. its like 10 cents a foot or something.

Same goes for ya if you come to Fairbanks. Good to know we have a board member on the road between the two big cities

take it back to the dealer.. they fix it at their own cost. tell them you want it brought into their shop right then, and fixed in front of you. Thats BS that a brand new car does something like that within 24 hours

the magnetic one does different things. the idea of a block heater is that it keeps your entire block warm. an extermal oilpan magnet heater just makes a hotspot in your oil. they make urethane on pads made for the bottom of the oilpan. its only like 40 watts where as that magnetic one is prolly running about 250 watts. You will not get the same effect with a magnetic one. Being in minnesota, you need a block heater, oil pan heater and perhaps a battery blanket.

yes you can. there is a writeup in the USRM. it involves taking the LSD unit out of the RX rear end and putting it in the 3.9 rear diff on your 87 wagon. There is some grinding involved. heres the link : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=36 If the RX rear diff is 3.9, you could just bolt up the RX rear diff on your wagon and I believe it will work. as long as its 3.9 ratio.

flip car over on roof. keep air from getting into the block heater hole..

get the front up in the air. I've had to burp some engines for 20 minutes to get all the air out of the heater core. those heater cores hold a lot of air bubbles

When was the last time the oil was changed? I slacked on my last change and got 5000 miles out of my last change, and that oil definatly smelled like gas. if its new oil and it smells like gas, then its time to worry If it is really bad there is somethine you can do to clean out the engine. it cleans out a lot of the carbon built up in the engine. carbon can hold the rings from pressing out all the way against the cylinder, pull the plugs out of it, fill the engine up with diesel. COMPLETELY FULL you'll have to pour in diesel into most of the cylinders via spark plug holes. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. The diesel reacts with carbon and eats it away. We did this to a toyota corolla at work a few weeks ago. it had no compression on any of the cylinders.. let it sit for a week, drained all the diesel out of the block, changed oil filter, new oil... Car started right up, ran like it was new. I've only had to change one water pump on my 86 wagon, and that was the original pump. that could be your case. I've put 45,000 miles on a napa pump and have had no problems. The back struts I've changed a few times, but thats just because I was too cheap to go buy new struts and springs. As for the missing, check the disty, plugs/wires. Check the coil also. I've gotten water in the cap of my coil and that made it miss under heavy accelleration.

Matt - I did that my first time changing the rear axles in my ea82. I had a breaker bar with a 6 foot stainless steel cheater bar on it, jumping up at and down on it for a day............. then decided to try the other side... came right out, with just a 3/8" rachet

the switch is a few bucks at a u pullit junkyard. what I usually do it go in for a spare tire or something (something that costs like 10 bucks) then go in and fill your pockets will little switches and what not. grab a resistor pack for your heater blower motor, the dimmer switch, a few vacumn selinoids. It will be the roll switch the second one in on your dash from the drivers side door

Any ea82 alternator will work. From 85-94 wagons sedans and hatch. I think and 84-86 brat alt will work too. it just needs to be a internally regulator alternator. I guess you could use a 80-84 ea81 alternator too if you had a external voltage regulator to hook up to it. What went out on your old one? is it not charging, or is it charging at 18+ volts?

its not that hard.. the driveshafts are the same. Up here in alaska D/R trannys are about 400 bucks at a JY. If you find a good yard thats got one, see if you can give them your single range and some cash for a dual range. Make SURE you get all the D/R shift linkage Time involved, depends on the person and how its done. I pull the engine out and then the tranny out through the hood. I dont mess with doing it from under the car, cuz its a lil more dangerous, and it seems easier to me to pull the engine. Having the donor tranny and all the tools needed, it'd take me about 4 1/2 hours on my car (no rust) Single to dual range, you are gonna have to cut the holes bigger for the d/r shifters.

EA81 and EA82 alts are the same after a certain year. I think its 1984 and newer have the internal voltage regulator. I used a alt from a 85 brat (on my 86 ea82) and it works great. Taking them apart is easy. just take out the 4 phillips head screws on the outside and tap the mounting ears apart. When you are putting it back together, you have to push a piece of bailing wire through the back of the VR half of the alt. it holds the contacts in that push onto the brushes. I've rebuilt about 10 of them. only two didnt work, and that was because I had two different size alternators.

my 86 gl wagon idles up to almost 4 grand during the high idle. You also gotta watch that the high idle doesnt get ahead of the temperature outside. it was -20 F this am, and I started my car. 45 seconds after it started, it reved itself to 4 grand. BAD on a cold engine

restabbing the disty isnt that hard. Put the timing marks on the flywheel to the 0 mark, and then put the disty in so the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire. keep in mind, when you put it in, because of the curved splines on the disty shaft, you'll have to turn the disty a little past where it should be as you are sliding it down. Good luck with it. If you are closer to FBKS let me know. I can come help also Northguy and snowman have my phone number, get it from them if you need my help

check your connections to the positive and negative posts. any corrosion or having them loose will make it do that. Another thing, if its not a sealed battery, make sure there is water in the battery. They have plastic caps that pop off and you should be able to see water down in the holes. Take the battery to a parts store like napa and have it load tested. The battery may have gone bad after running it dead and then trying to charge a dead battery with no water in it.

I'm very familiar with Legacy wiring for power windows. The circuit they run on goes clockwise when the windows are going down and counter clockwise when the window goes up. sounds like you have a wire grounded somewhere under the carpet, in the door pillars or in the door its self. One short circuit on any one of the windows will make the whole system not work. The last time I chased a short, I had to rip the whole car apart. seats out, take the carpet out, take off all the trim around the pillars and get in there with a test light. Keep in mind that this wiring was on a legacy, and it MAY be different on a Leone

to flush your heater core, use a low pressure water hose. like a garden hose. One thing to try before you replace the raid is park on a steep hill, let your car heat up with the raid cap off. Let it run until it heats up to about 3/4 to the H. watch for air bubbles coming out the top of the raidator. it could just have a big air bubble in the heater core

heres what my timing belts slipped to during the whole adventure And the car still ran

kelly keepin the car.. its still driveable. I'm gonna put it on the frame rack at work and make sure nothing is bent.

very high oil pressure would be probably 70+ psi. It is bad because it blows out all the seals where the oil gets pumped to

I dont think the size of the ujoint matters, its the sleeve that the steering shaft goes into and hte shaft from the rack and pinoin go to thats going to decide if a newer style will work.

you need a filter before the pump, or say goodbye to your pump

well, I should be dead. wrecked my car friday night. learned a valuable lesson. so I hit a 6 foot frozen gravel pile at 45 mph, jumped the bank, car flew 20+ feet distance wise, probably 4 or 5 feet in the air. sprained the crap out of my thumb, bent my steering wheel in about 2 inches. pushed my 1/4 panels back a little bit, doors still open with out binding with the fenders. pushed my passenger side headlight in about an inch. Got it running today, only on 3 cylinders though. it looks like the timing belt slipped on one side, so I'm gonna fix that tommorow at work. Car still drives as straight as it did before the wreck. Damn, these cars are tough

I put a 205 thermostat in my brat the night I got it. It gets good heat (cant fun the heater on high for more then 5 or 10 min) at 0 F. Temp on the needle stays at about halfway up the gauge. The parts store said they didnt stock a sooby 205 thermo, so I asked for a 54mm 205 degree chevy thermo and they had one.. funny how much carquest sucks... thermo works great