torxxx

Not true a SPFI engine should have 60-70 psi.. got that from specs in the book

Lets say a good running sooby being at 100%, what do you think these engines run at with the HLA's ticking? something like 85% Like would there be a noticeable change in MPG? My car has ticked since I got it, so I have no way to tell. (heh, and I have a new oil pump, I'm just too lazy to put it on. Funny coming from a guy who works at a subaru shop)

Ya I got what you mean. I will admit, it does dig like a SOB in the snow. I was pushing snow over the bumper last night out on the motocross track

lol, or I could drive the brat to the top of the hill, walk down the hill get in my wagon and race....

man, my economy really sucks... I got 16 mpg on my last road trip down to anchorage, 20 mpg on the way back up. I made one trip earlier this year, and got 14 mpg (but my gas pedal is ALWAYS to the floor)

turbo upgrade, bigger injectors, intercooler lol basically, its going to cost some money and/or some time to make the XT faster

I could see where an extra 65 hp would probably make a lot of difference with the ratio of it. lot more pulling power in lower RPMS I'll agree with you on they are smooth shifting tranny's (minus the massive shifter slop) I have yet to grind mine. The only problem I've had with EA82 trannys is the damn 3 gear syncro, other then that its been a great tranny

thanks for the write up.. saved me from starting another thread.. I was gonna ask that question tonite. Well looks like I'm goin datsun robbin.

Kelly - The track is out at the end of South Cushman Street. Right now its just an oval track, plowed 2 cars wide, and then in the middle theres a little detour --- A Few S curves. As soon as we get some -30 F nights, the guy will plow the 3 mile track.. now that is Awesome! Matt - I'm gotta talk to a few people who've done it, and then its going to happen to mine. Do you have a 5 speed D/R down there? If not, I have like 10 of them at work I can get my hands on. I owe ya a free part anyways

It is 185/70/13 I have a 86 GL wagon. heartless is right, the placcard on the door does say stock tire size

well after several nights of ice racing and 4 wheeling through our local pits, the decision is FINAL that my new brat is getting a 5 speed D/R. The gears are spaced way too far apart for ice racing. I let a buddy drive my wagon (someone who's never driven a EA82 of any style) and he was making better times then me. Going into a corner in 4 high, and then in drop it into 4 Lo right right before the turn starts and then after the turn is complete drop it back into Hi. Not to mention, I HATE how the shifter knocks the t-case out of gear when in reverse. In the wagon, just keep it in 2nd 4 Hi until the straights and it has no problems. I realize my EA82 revs higher then my EA81 and I think thats a big part of it. Get the wagon into a corner at 6 grand and it pulls good. The Brat hasnt even hit 6 grand yet.... sorry for complainin so much, just had to get it out of the way

well starting off, you'd be needing at 5 speed Single Range 4wd for a EA82 engine. They came on 90-94 Loyales. There is also a 5 speed Dual Range 4wd tranny that was on the GL wagons and Sedans from 85-89. I reccomend the Dual Range. Depending on what automatic you have, you might have to get a 3.9 ratio rear end, but you can check yours. Fulltime 4wd has 3.7 rear end and push button 4wd autos have 3.9 rear ends. I'm not positive on this, hopefully someone else will second me on that Try searching for this topic, it is a common asked question around here.

sounds like a good plan. I took it out today and went to the motocross track. took it through 4 to 5 foot whoops no problem. I love the approach angles on these cars.. awesome!

Cool thanks Matt soon as I get it registered, it will be coming down to anchorage

I've never had a 1600 apart down that far, but I know a EA82 has those "dowels", and they are just to make sure the heads go on straight. I think you'd be ablet to take an exacto knife and make the holes slightly bigger to make them fit. Anyone else with me on this?

I picked my brat up today. it drove with a wobble in the front drivers side tire, but after looking at it, the balancing weight was gone, so I changed tires and that fixed the problem. 135,000 miles on the ticker Anyways, the reason for this post is to get some ideas what to do with it. Heres what I have so far: 1. Ozified 4/3 lift 2. Yota rims with 27 inch or so rubber 3. 5 speed D/R EA82 tranny 4. possibly XT6 suspension (will this raise the back up at all?) How high do I have to lift it to get a nissan t-case under the car? I'm also looking for a source for the chrome trim along the bed. I'm gonna try to compete with Northguy for the nicest Brat in Alaska

thats it, I'm moving to europe. they have way cooler cars then we do here in the US

come on now guys...

ANYONE who owns a subaru has resorted to that once or twice in their cars life

heres what I did. last winter I had the same problems. What I ended up doing (and is still on the car to this day) was get a good 30 aMp toggle switch and run a hot wire from the battery (with a fuse) to one of the contacts on the blower motor, and then run another hot wire to the switch, ground the switch and then connect the other wire off the switch to the other tab on the blower motor. Caution - This bypasses the resistors and you will only have the fan on full speed. its been like that for a year now, and havent burned up a wire or a fuse just an idea

bump

its wierd. the fuel pump comes on as the car dies, and then it runs for like 4 seconds after the car has died. The pump doesnt turn on when you first turn the key.. thats what made me wonder about it

my buddy has a SPFI 88 wagon. Starting the car up, it runs on high idle, and then after the high idle turns off the car dies. we changed the high idle selinoid, the plugs and disty cap, fuel filter. I'm wondering if its a fuel pump problem. anyone have any ideas

thanks man

if you do it right, you can get away with just using a 3/8" 8 inch socket extention and a 36 mm socket. Use the 3/8" to punch out the old bearing. the extention should have rounded corners on it, so it wont makes burrs in the bearing sleeve. And then when you put them back in, do the inside bearing first and then the outer bearing. if changing to a new bearing, good time to change to synthetic wheel bearing grease.