torxxx

Sweet82 is exactly right. They musta done that the last time you got your oil changed...

dont believe it then. I dont need to argue my point with you

Its all about suction. Every time I take my gas cap off the tank is pressurized. On the engines in our boats, some guys run with out a fuel pump. once you get that fuel line full of fuel, it will suck its own fuel (to a certain point) my car bogged down hard at higher RPMS. To test it I pulled the fuel line off, started the car and watched for fuel to come out of the fuel line. Nothing came out at all with the old pump on. Installed the new one, fuel sprayed everywhere. Most noticable on the upper RPMS.

Yup change it 4x a year. Every new season.

LMAO.... Its just another one of those unexplainable subaru phenomenons Anyone else ever have this happen to them?

I live in one of the colder parts of alaska, and I use Chevron 15W40 Delo 400 year round in my car. Works just fine. You need to winterize your car. Block heater, Battery Blanket, Oil pan Heater and you shouldnt need the 300 CCA boost. The lifter noise - its a 15-20 year old soob.. it happens. And for the Mobil1 oil, its a soob. They leak oil. synthetic just leaks out faster....

Anyone ever have a engine run with no fuel pump? I just happened to test my pump last night, and it doesnt work. I think my car has been like that since I got it 6 years ago. Its never cold started right, and after it sat for more then 4 or 5 days, you'd have to pump the gas pedal til your foot hurt to get it started. I've always thought a car needed a pump to move the fuel since the tank is in the back and lower then the engine, but apparently not.

Anyone on the board in the portland area, drive a Light blue EA82 wagon, lifted with Super Swampers TSLs? custom bumpers? My buddy said he seen one the other day near hilsboro..

ummm.. a haynes manual has them in it.. I'd just post the codes on this thread. someone online right now has a FSM or a manual sitting at a arms reach.

thats what happens when I get rushed.....

yeah I'm glad its done and gone. The owner of the car came in and yelled at me today, because my boss told the owner the car would be done 2 weeks ago, and the boss forgot about the car until just a few days ago...

change the spark plugs. I've had 4 major overheat jobs on cars and after I did the heads, it still missed. Put new plugs in, solved the problem. The Water pump could also be shot. Check the thermo.. (hell just buy one. they are like 5 bucks) Put the car on a steep angle, front up, and let the car run with the heat on high. pour in antifreeze to keep it topped off. If any big bubbles or the water in the raid surges up and then sucks way back down, its a air bubble.

well ever other car made from 85-92 have the computers located under the steering column. I'm not sure abouta justy because the whole setup is different. But start by checking under that plastic cover where your knees would hit in the drivers side. pull the plastic trim off and a computer should be up underneath there. Should havea little red light in the middle of the computer. if the check engine light is on, the code will come off that light. long flashes acount for 10, 20, 30 etc.. the short flashes are single numbers. It will flash lets say: Long Long short short short = Code 23

well with an auto, from what I've been told and with the 3 auto tranny swaps I've done, the torq converter has to be put on the tranny side first and then after you get the engine in place, you put the bolts in the flywheel plate to the torq converter. You can do this through the timing mark hole and the starter hole. just a thought.

well you guys will never guess what the problem was.... That damn plate that bolts on to the bottom of the bellhousing on the motor? The little sheet metal 2 inch by 8 inch plate.. I guess when I put the motor back in the last time I bent it up and it was catching on the flywheel. I didnt realize it would make such a horrible noise.. but anyways the car is fixed, the owner came and picked it up. Thanks for the help though guys.

thanks for the help guys.. goin to work right now to mess with it some more

ozified lifT? talk to snowman.. he lifted his.. he may have some ideas to help you out. Hes helped me out a bunch on other subaru stuff..

working on a 84 GL wagon 4 speed D/R wagon. Clutch was shot. Installed the new clutch how the haynes manual said. remounted the engine, and now when I start it, I'm getting a squealing noise from the bellhousing. I've heard soob clutches always slip for a little bit when they are new, but this doesnt seem right. The old clutch wore down to the rivets on the pressure plate side, so I bought the whole clutch kit. I cleaned the flywheel with brake cleaner, and checked out the surface. It looked good, no grooves or anything. The car drives forward and reverse just fine. So my question is, what is making that noise? I've talked to snowman and a few othe rmechanics I know, and the conclusion is to just drive it and see what happpens... Anyone else have any ideas

Check out a can of Electric Contact Cleaner. It may not eat away rubber like brake cleaner, but it still degreases and cleans. They should have some at a normal parts store.. just read the back of the can first.

I once again stand corrected. 89 legacy... uck... sounds painful

The axles can be put back in with the engine and tranny both bolted down and the mounts tight. It takes two people and one person has to pry the tranny to the side with a cheater bar. I did that this weekend on a 84 wagon. Put the engine/tranny in together, bolted her down and then installed the axles to the tranny.

ummm last time I checked, subaru never made a 2.2L station wagon in 1989..... something to think about It is a 1.8L you are talking about. Buy a haynes manual for your car from napa. They have the diagrams

n00b......You've posted 40 some times aND you still dont know how to quote someones post..... 90% of the people here knew what I was talking about running OEM parts (meaning gaskets, belts etc), but with you, well lets just say, I'm sorry your mom smoked rocks when she was pregnant.

A N/A EJ22 is 165 hp I beleive. Mudrat79 makes adaptor kits for the conversion. A few have done the conversion on the board.. I am also thinking about doin it to my car. The hardest part would be the wiring harness from the engine to the dash. the cluster panel out of a ej22 car would fit fairly well into the loyale dash.

you guys are talking about two different things... the 4 cylinder engine treatment vegas blade is talking about goes in your oil. which has nothing to do with why ocsikes car is knocking. your car is sufffering from fuel knock. get some octane boost and run that for tank and next time make sure you are getting good fuel. also turn your timing down a little bit.