torxxx

he must be talking about the rear stub shaft. They are a pain in the rump roast.. Heat is what its going to take. I beat on mine for 2 days without heat and then it took 5 minutes after i got it hot with a rosebud tip. When u put the axle back on make sure you antiseeze the hell out of the shaft before you put the axle on good luck.

1. No. heads should be done 3 times.. 23 ft lbs, then 43 ft lbs, then 47. The pattern starts with the center bolt and then goes to the top middle and goes in a circle from there clockwise working your way to the middle. If you torq those 12 mm bolts down the same as the head you will prolly strip them 3. 150,000 miles is about time for new gaskets. I have an 86 carb with 140,000 miles and the gaskets are just starting to go

I think you could probably take a male spade connector and run a hot wire from the battery to the fuse box and plug it in with the cig lighter fuse.. that would make the circuit I think

yup thats the one. Been sittin there for at least 3 months. Tycho u the one I talk to on msn?

I found one of the only XT6 in fairbanks today. Not a bad looking car.. Drivers back 1/4 panel is smashed and part of the bumper, and it has a blown engine. The owner thinks he is going to get a engine for it up here, but its not going to happen. I'm wondering what I should offer him in Cash to see if I can get him to sell it. Its got a few rust spots but the whole car looks decent. Also whats it going to cost me to get a used XT6 engine? What are some of the things that go out on a XT6? Thanks in advance to whoever responds

Oil pump reseal and HLA replacement. That is exactly what my engine does. I resealed my pump and it DID NOT fix the problem. HLAs are getting changed next.

I'm with ya on that. I've worked on 85, 86, 90, 91, 92 and they all have internal regulators too. I've had parts stores tell me that 92's have external regulators by what the computer and books say, but it doesnt. It should have a plastic T clip and a circle connector that goes to the stud and the 8mm nut. IF its like that, its a interntal regulator.

I'm gonna have to disagree with the reseal. I resealed my pump and it did NOTHING about the ticking. Replace the HLAs. $ 4.50 a piece is what that site quoted for remanufactured HLA's

I'm hijacking this since northguy never msgs me back... Matt, I'm comin down on the weekend of the 15th to see my old lady... Me and kelly are gonna meet up.. perhaps you too? Get ahold of me.. email. Pm, post... something

Alright guys.. Thanks for pointing me the right direction. The snow is hitting the ground and I really wanna get LSD on before winter hits full out. I'm going to work right now to check out the rotation. Hopefully one of them will spin both tires the same direction. Dr. RX - None of the stickers on the rears look like your avatar. I may go down to the sooby dealer here and see if they can give me a list of what cars and what years had LSD on it. I wish I could remember who said that the rear end may be LSD even though it has the standard sticker on it. They mislabeled them or something. Anywho, thanks for the help everyone.

Hey guys, work with me here. I'm on a slow 56k so using the search function would take a hour or two to answer this question. I remember a few people here saying that a LSD rear end doesnt always say LSD on the sticker. So heres what I got: Part number: 722011012 - FT4wd Turbo made in 3/88 number : 722011010 - Single Range Turbo Wagon made in 12/85 number : 722011011 - Single Range XT turbo made in 6/86 All are 3.7 rear ends, are any of them LSD? Thanks guys

I think I smell a 5 speed D/R swap...

I agree with the bad ujoints. Every driveshaft I've gone through has made a different noise. Some popped, some squeaked, some grinded...

The adjustable front struts will give you up to 2 inches more lift if you crank the adjusters up. There was a chart going around the board with all the 85-92 soobys and the specs on the shocks/struts. I think the RX has the longest rear strut, so if you can get em that will take care of the back. 85/86 4wd wagons have adjustable front struts. Now for tires... I got a buddy up here with a 84 wagon and hes running 27 or 28s with stock suspension and no lift kit. Hes got yota offset rims that help with the rubbing on the inside. His car looks huge and he did it with just stuff from the junkyard. You may have to cut the front of the quarter panel to make them fit if you want that big of tires. good luck

Bosch Platnuim plugs. get the $1.99 ones. Lifetime warranty. If one goes bad, take it back to where you bought it and get another one for free.

Its gonna come down to what kind of driving you plan on doing with the car. Long road trips and daily driving where you need a fast car, go with the impreza. My mom has a 2001 legacy, nice comfortable car for onroad use. Sucks in the dirt If you like to take it offroad and rally the loyale is the way to go. I've trashed my car pretty hard for 6 years straight and its still living. original engine, clutch replaced once, 2 sets of timing belts. 140,000 miles and still running strong. And if the engine goes, you can get a import motor from japan for 700 bucks. 20 to 30,000 miles on them. Takes just a few hours to put a new motor in. For ~ 700 bucks you could probably convert that FWD to 4WD D/R. That will haul a trailer with a dirt bike on it no problem. 3200 for the impreza kinda makes me wonder whats been done to it. reconstructed vehicle?

well heres the rest of the story about that light. It comes on every 60,000 miles. so at 60 120 180 thousand miles its going to come on. Its "supposed" to be a factory tune up time light.

mountainbikeak - hahhaha I passed you in anchorage a few weeks ago. I remember the sticker.. lol blue 86 wagon with metallic blue racing stripes? that would be me

I Am currently trying to figure out how to rig up a hood scoop and plumbing to get cold air from the hood into the intake. I just need to figure out what kind of pre filter I need from the hoodscoop to keep water and crap out of the air intake. I ran my car with a k&n cone filter for 6 months and I ended up putting the stock SPFI air intake and filter back on it. All the mudding I did this fall, I was cleanin that k&n like once a week

which gaskets are you using. There are two different types. One is a metal covered gasket that is fairly thick (use this one) and then you have the crappy paper thin ones with the metal ring around the inside of the gasket. I use the thick ones and have never had a problem. You could be getting the leak from having partially stripped out head to exhaust studs. my buddy fought that for a year or two until I threaded a bigger stud in there for him

anyone know if they have any performance parts for EA82 engines?

my boss at work told me today that turbos have different cv axles in them that a SPFI or a N/A ea82. I remember seeing something about 23 and 25 tooth splines and I wanted to get an answer. Is there a difference and will a turbo axle work in my n/a? thanks guys

After reading all this, sounds like you turbo guys need to get some kind of different hose. Theres this stuff we use on wet exhausts on marine engines. Its black hose thats probably a 1/4 inch thick and it was cable strand inlay. The stuff is stronger then hell. I know guys who've been using the same stuff for 10 years and havent had a problem with it. I'll try to find out the name of the hose if anyone is interested. These exhausts are runnin at 250+ F and I havent seen one melt or crack yet. The only problem is taking the stuff off every winter to winterize and having the end of the hose lose its memory and stretch.

so has anyone sucessfully done the dual carb?

is it possible for a dual carb ea82? if so, what parts do I need? sounds like a fun project