torxxx

Well I am in Fairbanks. Someone give me a day and I'll work it in.

Nope I have nothing to do with valvtect. http://www.valvtect.com/products.asp#Opi at the bottom of the page. The problem with the gas down here is that it is barged into town. There is no road in and out of here. They have to let the fuel sit and settle for like 2 weeks after they fill the main tanks back up. So the overall fuel we get here is crappy. Only "87" octane is offered at the one gas station in town and I doubt if its even 85.

good call guys. I was just gonna start a thread about it. We need to have one. I have 2 buddies in FBKS with soobys that would prolly come down with me. I will be in Anchorage on the 4th and 5th and maybe part of the 6th, but I'm also willing to make the 5 hour drive down when ever you guys wanna have a meet. Kelly I gotta see your car man. When divies come out I'm finally gonna get my lift. Any if anyone has Jon's (Battle Wagon Medic) phone number or a way to get ahold of him, pm me plz. I wanna see if he got the NOS monster runnin yet

Hey guys I've been suffering from denotation for the last few months because the town I live in only have 85 octane gas. I went down to the local fuel dock where the barges come in and unload fuel, and found out about some awesome fuel additive to make up for that lost octane. Its called Valvetech Octane Improver. Theres about 30 guys that run that stuff in Marine Power 496 gas engines with water jet propulsion and its the only stuff thats kept the engines running. All the other octane boosters on the market was blowing these engines apart. So I bought a bottle. 8 bucks for a bottle that treats 125 gallons. it made my engine run a lot better (no more detonation all the way up to 14 degrees advanced on a carbed engine) my fuel milage went up from 275 miles a tank to 300+ miles a tank. The power improvement is the best part of it. I was losing power at 4500 RPM before I used this stuff. Tested her out last night and I was getting power up to 5500 RPM. I reccomend this stuff to any of you guys who live where we get only low octane gas. Hit me up if you guys want to know more info about Valvetech

I take it, the engine is SPFI? Heres what to take off and in order: 1. Disconnect Battery, Pull Raidator 2. Unbolt engine mounts 3. Unbolt exhaust 4. Disconnect Fuel Lines 5. Remove Air intake boot, unhook throttle cable 6. Unbolt engine from tranny (4 bolts - 2 top and 2 on the bottom 17mm I believe for the bottom bolts) 7. Put jack on tranny crossmember and lift up 2 inches 8. Get a buddy and lift out the engine You dont have to remove intake or P/S pump to pull the engine. Unbolt the A/C pump and set it back on the shelf where the spare tire sits As for pulling the intake for replacing the gaskets, just unbolt the 6 bolts and pull the entire intake off. When you get the new gaskets, makes sure you ask for the thick exhaust gaskets (they will try to give you really thin crappy gaskets) Good luck

glad to hear the haul back was uneventful. I want pics of the hole... kinda scary. how many miles did you have on that engine? I'm at 128,000 and she's tickin pretty bad.... hope I make it back home next week

do a search. me and the scooby had a thread a few months ago and someone posted a good factory spec sheet of all the suspension components on EA82 cars

The last trip I made to Anchorage I got 23 mpg. Crusin speed about 75-85 mph the whole way. 375 miles Stop and go driving in town the last day - 16 mpg (I got a really heavy foot. Wide open every gear)

just convert to rear disc brakes

Kelly That sucks she broke down. Makes me wonder about my car. I'm gonna double check the pulley nut, cuz I didnt flywheel tighten it last time. I talked to a few old timers and they all swear that bolt will self tighten with the rotation of the pulley so I'd check the threads on the bolt and the crankshaft. As for combining the engines, I just turned a carbbed to SPFI this last week. The only difference that you will find with the SPFI block is there isnt any sideburns on the engine (air exhaust suction whatever it is) And the EGR air seleniod is on the fender on a carb'd setup (SPFI is on the intake) there is also a few other small differences but everything should go alright You have my phone number, so give me a call if you have any questionsabout the swap.

Nope I didnt do that. The sideburns (air suction valve) which blows air into the exhaust so the cat burns completely. You dont need to disconnect them, just reroute them to the SPFI air intake. As for the EGR valve, newer engines still have egrs on them. The EGR valve, I just blocked off the vacumn hose. Anyone have any ideas on what computer I need for a 91 loyale?

who's this girl? I need her to get up here and get this car running

calebz - What all would cause abnormal injector output? The car runs with starting fluid but with out it, it wont

Ahhh yea.. That was one thing I thought about. No fuel Rail means no injectors 1 2 3 4. It must be off a MPFI car. Those f@#%ers. Gonna have to rob a new computer

Hey guys, I'm back! Anyways, I'm working at a sooby shop now and a 91 wagon needed an engine. The donor was a 87 carbbed engine. I switched over the intake from the SPFI and put it on the carbbed block. Got the engine in, everything hooked up but now it wont start. the ECU was giving me a throttle sensor code and a air sensor code, so I swapped those. Now its giving me a fuel injector code, so I swapped the Throttle body out. Reset the computer and its still giving the fuel injector code. The computer that was gave to me for the car, might not be the right one. The connectors match up, but someone told me that the EA82s have like 20 different computers for them. I need to get it running so I can get paid for the job. Anyone have any ideas why it would still be giving me the fuel injectors #1 and 2 code? And is there anything else that I could check? Its got spark, good compression, good fuel presssure at the hoses at the TBI. Thanks in advance to anyone who responds

I doubt that it was something spilt on the carpet.. Steel wool burns so that proves that metal will burn. Rust oxidizes and the start makes it catch on fire..

fuel filter

kelly - there is only one fuel filter on our cars. Fuel injected have 2. Carbs have one (next to the fuel pump)

I run 15w40 Napa Fleet Oil (comes in the gallon jugs) and 4 to 8 oz of Marvels Mystery Oil. I change oil/filter every 2k miles. Havent had an oil pressure problem or bad ticking since the change over last year.. I expiremented with 10w30 this winter and maybe even 5w30 for one oil change and my car did not like it.

shean - get back up there and do 45/50 mph on the way back. You should never tow anything on a dolly over 50 anyways. If you think about the physics of it, you are using a dolly with a very short tongue. If you are hooking it to a lifted ford the ball hitch is going to be at least 3 inches higher. The angle of the tongue and the ball is too steep. If you got a truck with a reciever hitch and a drop down receiver I bet you could get up to 65 mph before it would start awaying. Another thing is the flex do to the dolly. If the car was on a 4 wheel double axle trailer you could do 80 down the freeway with no sway. Because of the point where the dolly is connected, and the fact that there is a another object with wheels hanging off he dolly makes flex spots. Did you chain bind the soob to the dolly via control arms? I've done a lot of towing in my days. During Fishing season guys pull 10,000 to 13,000 pound boats out on 6 wheel 3 axle trailers and tow them 6 miles down a windy road on the side of a mountain and lake. Everyone uses drop down recievers (even the trucks with out a lift) I painted up a pic that might help.

just wondering, Will a RX grill fit on my 86 wagon with out any modifications? thanks

my bad.. we dont do rallyx up here in alaska, so when he said rally I figured 4x'in.. Thats what I call it.. Alaskan Rallyin disregard everything I listed then if its rallyx you are after

look through the photos page. The member rides one has everyones car in there. There's all sorts of things you can do to it subarubrat and mudrat have some big lifted soobs and there is a bunch of other cars with 3 inch lifts and 25-30 inch tires If you still want the car somewhat highway driveable with decent gas mileage, this is what I'd do 5 speed D/R 4wd tranny Fuel Inject'd EA82 3 inch lift 5 or 6 lug rims with 28 inch tires (some fender trimming might be required) Accel ignition coil LSD rear end some extra skid plates 86-89 Honda accord front springs (put on the back struts) and get rid of the stock exhaust (at least muffler)

prices are high for soobs in alaska, but with leaking head gaskets, new windshield someone wouldnt pay 2 grand for it. 500 bucks fix the head gaskets and new winsheild - 1500 bucks