torxxx

no thats not stock. Stock has one nut that you can barely get a 21 or 22 mm open end wrench on it. I had to grind down my wrench a little bit to get it to fit

when you say the plugs not going in all the way, are the threads stripped, or did you just bung up the threads? if it doesnt go in all the way, you could retap the hole. Just make sure you use the right size tap and use a shop vac to suck out the metal shaving out of the cylinder. Dont try starting it until you get that plug hole fixed.. You dont want a plug exploding out of the hole when you crank on it. 20 degrees is still high I think 12 is for SPFI non turbo static time it to 10 degrees and see if you can get it running from there. pull a plug and see if its getting spark. If not, you might have slipped a tooth on the T-belts

thanks for responding fox.. I was hoping that mpg goes up.. It revs out so much faster.. I got it up to 98 mph. New landspeed record my car

if it was on a bridge, it could have been the heat expansion plates between spans.. I dont know if they do that with bridges down there, but in alaska theres some that have the plates over the top of the teeth where the bridge is supposed to move (contract and expand)

shean - do a search.. someone had a grey/brown wagon with a big kenwood sticker on the front window and there was a few trophies on the ground in front of the car. He lowered his and go the dropdown trim and all that stuff. Maybe he could help you out

if you want to stop the engine tapping (ticking) replace the seals in the oil pump, or run thicker oil in it.. I run 15w40 an my car stopped ticking like it used to. Yes that high of oil pressure can be bad to an engine.. I believe it can blow out the seals in your engine. But seeing how everyone says thess gauges are off, the only real way to see would be to get a new oil pressure gauge. I've been driving my car for over a month with the oil pressure gauge goin up to 75 or 80 and nothings gone wrong yet... Thats why I'm pretty sure its the gauge

yah.. we are saying the same thing about the XT struts.. As for the rear, it doesnt say the spring lengths but seeing how the RX strut is only a a hair shorter than the 4wd I dont see how you'd get 2 inches drop in the rear. unless the spring was 2 inches shorter or you cut 2 inches off the spring

well I think I finally found a good exhaust setup thats not too far from stock and it cost under 50 bucks. Stock Y pipes, then cut at the mid car flange and has a 1 3/4 inch thrush glass pack, then goes to 2 inch back to the existing rear muffler flange and then it goes to 2 1/2 to 3 inch elbow dumping the exhaust right behind the rear drivers side tire.. Awesome acceleration.. Tires spin all the way through 1st gear. Sounds good too.. I just need to get a "wannabe ricer" sticker for the back window for that extra 50 hp

NO XT struts on the front.. they are the shortest. and maybe just cut a coil out of the 4wd spring XT struts are supposedly 2 inches shorter than our wagon struts.. (If I read the chart correctly) RX rear struts are only a 1/10th of an inch shorter than the ones you have on your car now As for the back, the only difference in length is like half an inch so I guess you'd have to chop a coil off to make it sag more. Unless someone has made lowering brackets

Shean - To lower your wagon down you'd want to be running XT front struts and RX struts on the back. Use springs of choice. RX springs are the stiffest, 3 door 4wd turbo or any 2wd would be the softest up front Back springs 4wd wagon springs are the stiffest any 2wd springs are the softest

caleb - your the man.. thank you So for a wagon, for max. lift and stiffness I'd run RX springs on 4wd wagon struts in the front. Back would be 4wd springs on XT struts

After talking to a few board members about this topic, the conclusion was to post on the board and see what every has to say about it: On a scale of 1 to 3, 3 being the stiffest springs and A to C, C being the tallest struts, how do all the struts and springs rank by model? RX Front spring - 3? 4wd Wagon - 2 XT - 1 RX Front strut - ? 4wd Wagon - ? XT - ? RX rear spring - 3? 4wd wagon - ? XT - ? RX rear strut - ? 4wd wagon - ? XT - C? thanks guys in advance for anyone who responds

That oil pressure is high. You could be low on oil (mine goes up when I'm down more than half a quart). The oil pressure gauges in the dash are not accurate. I spend an hour last week talking to a Subaru of American mechanic about the problems with oil pressure. Run a bottle of Chevron Fuel Injection cleaner through a tank of fuel. This will help clean the injectors if there is anything clogging them I have an 86 GL wagon and there isnt two cats. 1 cat and a resonator, so I doubt yours has two cats. The resonator looks like a small oval replacement muffler, but its about 6 to 8 inches wide, 2 inches tall and about 10 inches long. Loose motor mount could me making that knocking sound on the body. Does it knock harder when you are on the gas compared to idling. Also does it sound like its coming from inside the engine or outside?

if its a carb, try feathering your gas pedal.. I have to pump the hell out of mine every now and then to get it to start. take the airbox cover off the top of the carb, push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and see if the choke closes. If not it doesnt, this may be your starting problem You could also try holding the pedal to the floor. (engine could flood itself out) I've also had this happen to mine. It does it right about freezing temp. If its fuel injected, dont try the first one you'll flood it. Pull your spark plugs, look at what color the tips are.. This will tell you if your running too rich or lean

thanks scooby. partsman - I believe I said that cars will still pass IM with the stuff removed. There are board members who've done it. And damn us to hell for wanting to make our engines look cleaner. I dont see you bitching everyone out that has a weber on their soobs. And if someone wants to post something about about saving the enviroement, take it to the off topic. Me and Scooby didnt ask what other people think about the Emissions Control systems and how bad it is to remove them. We were discussing modifying something

myoss is right. I get hte same numbers from my GL wagon 5 speed with stock tires and rims 20 mph is like 2 grand in 2nd gear 75 is 3400 rpms

I want the SVX

look at the back of the intake man. There will be a black 5/8 hose going to a fitting that screws into your intake. Thats the PCV valve all the system is basically is a hose coming off each cam case runs into the airbox, one hose gets vented into the airbox its self and hte other one gets blown back into the intake. What you'd want to do is run a oil vapor separator from BOTH sides into a T and then have that going to the PCV valve. That shoudl work fine. It would still get its suction from the intake so I dont see why it wouldnt work... What they are saying is you can just have both going to a filter because thats basically completely bypassing the PCV valve. having them both going to a filter like that makes it so the air from the crankcase cannot escape the filter

Miles - How about a "Wagobrat" or a XT Turbowagon?

I agree with Mike W... if so I'll make one too. Miles - It might not be 7, but you can count me in for making the Alaska Trashwagon. I'll see whats goin on this fall when I get back from fishing

the hat is friggin awesome

shucks = shmucks they are idiots try napa

hehe the new word for something cool is "tits"

so which of the 4 lines from the vapor canister is the fuel vent? oh, Rallyruss take your hippie bull**** somewhere else.. Complain to all the people running diesels about the emissions. Or the 5 million 2 stroke snowmachines I see driving around alaska. If you havent read other threads about removing this stuff, people have still passed IM tests with a de-emissioned hitachi and with the weber. We are simply doing this to make our engine compartments look better. Nothing else.. No performance is gained from removing this stuff. I'm just sick of a vacumn line coming undone or having a leak and then my car runs like crap