torxxx

yup I know what you mean calebz. I have 2 13 mm in my tool box because I had to get new bolts for the oil pan skid plate and thats the only size bolt head I could find that would match the standard metric threads. No 22 or 21 mm is needed for engine swap?

noah - how much are they for a EA82?

damn dude, that sucks. Reminds me of 4x4ing my GMC S-15.... Halfway back the rod knock started. I wasnt fortunate enough to make it home though. Stuck the rod through the block (left a hole the size of a lemon)

thanks for the responses guys. As for the rebuilding stuff someone mentioned, I wont be doing that. The donor engine is a temp engine while mine gets rebuild.. new lashers, gaskets

yeah I noticed mine was a lot smoother with the bolts and nuts tight. The bushings looked like they are alright. Hard to tell witha ll the grime down there

well for the smashed front end, I'm going ot put a chain around the bumper/raid front clip and tow out on it to bend it away from the engine thats should give me enough clearance. I was pulling on the front today and moved it 1/2 inch so that should come easy. I was going to have a few guys to lift the motor out. What about putting a jack underneath the engine on blocks and hten just jack the engine up until the heads are above the front frame spars? Or I could get a actelyne torch and just cut our a groove in the front to slide the engine straight forward As for the vacumn lines, they are all coming off. its going to be a de-emissioned EA82 And the clutch is supposed to be good on the donor car so I'll prolly put that in to

I'm interested in a set for my EA82

K I went and looked at my buddies DL Wagon today.. he T-boned someone and smashed the front, but the raid took the dents and it didnt get pushed into the T-belt covers. I'm planning on getting the car and swappin it with mine. Both are Hitachi carbbed, cept his has PS and mechanical fan. (Both wont be going back on my car) Since I've never done a EA82 swap, I'm wondering if there is any special tools I'm going to need. Also Time involved in this project, and any other advice anyone might have. I posted before about compression testing the motor and no one answered about how many PSI each cylinder should be. 120 PSI?

I agree with the shorter stick shift. I was looking at it on my EA82 and I think one could cut 3 inches off the stick and then rethread the stick

I've been trying to think how to make a cover that was snap on. Messin wtih those plastic holes sucks. I too had a few that just spun so I broke those and put the covers back on with the remaining bolts.

ok, people are readin this and NO one has any answers?!?!?!

Yes the red green and black are fuseable links. In my past, I've burned out links. They've burned up completely so you could tell just by looking at them. One other thing you can check, is pull the steering column cover off and on the back side of the key ingition there is two screws take those out and pull of the ignition wire bundle and the lil plastic/alum. take a flag head and turn the switch. If it doesnt click into the on spot, or it just keeps turning, that switch is bad. But since you said its overcharging I'm pretty sure its the voltage reg/battery thats bad. The voltage reg is internal to the alt., but they are replaced able if you if you have the time to do it. When you go to get parts next time bring the batt with you and have the parts store test it for you. It is usually free and it takes about 30 seconds

to test the voltage regulator, watch the volt charging gauge.. If it goes up and keeps going past 14 volts when you rev the engine, the voltage reg is shot

sounds like the voltage regulator went out in the alt. and then it over charged your battery, killing it. When you said the voltage was running high, something like 18 volts perhaps? This happened to my buddies 92 loyale last weekend. He just bought the batt. and then fried it. New alt, new batt problem solved

Well, I crawled underneath the soob today to put my oil pan skid plate back on, and in my digging through the grime and grease, I found that the nuts on the back of the engine mounts were loose. Does this mean that the bushings are shot, and the vibration is what got to the nuts and loosened them up?

Akira - wanna come up to alaska and do some body work on my car. I got a few cancer spots.... wish I had the time and a shop to fix them like you did. I just hit them with a spray can til that one year (hopefully soon) I get a garage. That reminds me, bigjim5551212 If you buy a BRAT, check for rust. The tail gate is the first place to go isnt it?

yea I'd go with EA81s No timing belts to break. I do know of tons of people with 250,000 + miles on EA82s, but timing belts and oil pumps are the weak spot on them. Just make sure its a 5 speed D/R 4wd what ever way you go. You will be saving yourself work in the future

I have the same type of fog lights. I have mine 3m'd to the hood. But I like that place at the bottom of the rad.. Ultra White are the name of the fog lights. they are 55 watt, but they sell 100 watt bulbs that you can put in them.

the pre heater hose is exactly why its running like crap. Soob carbs like to ice up, thats why they put that hose onto the airbox assembly I bought a piece of marine sea water cooling hose to replace the foil pre heater hose that the car came with. The hose will outlast the car. And let the car idle for 15 to 20 min before driving. Makes a huge difference in the winter time then warming it up til the temp gauge goes above the cold mark.

I got a Hitachi Doesnt really have too much problems.. My cutting out on left hand turns stopped happening. Other then that it works fine.. Soon to be de-emissioned

Miles - props for finding something new. If someone makes something work, and it works for them, dont talk trash about it. I've been following Miles's Ej22 project and he seems to know what hes talking about. Yes you can burn out a toggle switch. I've done it. The only reason why it burned out is because it was only a 15 amp switch.. I changed it to a 30 amp and I'm running 200 watts of halogen bulbs through that one switch and I use those lights every night when I drive and have had no problems. I'm no electrical genuis, but a little common sense is all you need Hook it up, if it works and doesnt catch on fire Use it If it burns up, get bigger wires, better fuses and try that

3000 mile drive for me.. Any other Alaska guys interested in going? Thats a long drive for me to do by myself. Unless Mudrat still has that ea81 wagon.. then I might fly down buy that, goto the show and drive it back up.

purlator pure one filters Too many miles on my car to convert to synthetic now.. I change my oil ever 1500 miles anyways so the cheap napa 15w40 works just fine and it leaks a lot less..

I run napa 15w40 fleet oil and my car doesnt tick I run any 10w30 car ticks like hell

nice carpet job.. I wanna do that with mine when I find some light blue shag carpet