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I've always wanted full hydro steering. I'm getting to the point now with my Outback that I will any benefit or advantage I can take over my ************ty chevy buddies. I'm so tired of hearing them tell me you cant do that with a subaru. I showed them wrong at the mud bogs this fall, took my loyale with 25" tires and ran and passed 2 out of 4 runs in the 4/6 cylinder class. Next tires above me were 33" Boggers. Pretty cool hearing the crowd stand up and cheer even when I buried the car to the point of climbing out the windows. I think there was 1 Yota running a modified 22R and the rest of the engines were modified 4.3L GM motors. And there I sat with my carb'd EA82 lol, Felt good showing that you dont need big power or big tires to follow with big rigs. I dont see the point in having 600 HP and 44 inch boggers running off aluminum housed Dana 44's when I can run a stock subaru with a modified gearbox and diffs and turn more heads doing so Steering aside, I'm wondering whats going to break first in the tranny. hehe I'm saying stripped/chipped 1st and second gear and a stripped splines at the center diff housing. Monstaru - Ice tracking with all 3 diffs welded??? :-p Should be able to do some interesting things with all 4 spinning into a hairpin

GarrettG - it uses a 2004 Forester XT ring/pinion. I have not built it yet, but theres a few threads on the forums of guys who have. Monstaru or numbchux were the ones I think found the year/make that had a 4.44 MT

been thinking hard about building up a spare tranny for my lifted outback. thoughts of a welded front diff have come into question. Who here has actually ran a 5mt with a welded front diff? (before every says you cant do that, this car never sees pavement. its strictly a dirt/mud rig) I fully understand that steering is going to suck, no more tight turns, stuffs gonna break but in reality on a trail rig how bad can a welded front diff be? Do the benefits of both front tires spinning vs just one worth doing? This tranny might see 1000 miles a year offroad, most of it will be straight line mud bogs. It will be a 4.44 5MT converted tranny sitting behind a stock EJ25D or my EG33 if I ever get around to doing the swap.

Got everything rebuilt/replaced on the main gear shaft. was surprised at how easy they are to rebuild. Got me my own bearing separator coming in the mail and will be ordering my 4.44 R&P this weekend. Now I can get motivated to build my 5MT for my own outback and get that R&P installed. oh and weld up that center diff.. hehehe how bad is my car gonna drive if I weld up the front diff? really thinking about building 2 trannys (one with stock open diff and then my play tranny with a welded front and center diff)

tore the tranny back down, the company that did the work refuse to admit they did the work even though I have a receipt for it. When the guy put the brass wear ring back in in, he either didnt replace it or bent it. The shift collar will not engage to 4th gear what so ever. So now I gotta find someone with a press and a bearing buddy so I can pull the thrust washer off and see what exactly the guy broke. Sad thing is the guy who did the work has supposedly been doing gear work for 35+ years Needless to say, I guess I'm going to be teaching myself how to rebuild gear shafts.

weld the new keyway into place, grind-er down til the crank pulley fits

hey guys, just got a 5 speed put back together after having the gear shop in town replace the syncros and the bearings in a 5 speed. I split the case myself and dropped the gear sets off to them. I've done about a dozen of them and have had 100% success with everything working after. Now comes the odd part, on the bench I'm almost positive I felt it shift/click into 4th gear. Got the tranny back into the car and went to check to see if it had all gears with teh linkage and shifted hooked up. All gears but 4th (4th was the problematic gear that the customer wanted fixed) There is no position on the shifter for 4th, almost like the guy forgot to put the shift collar for 3/4 shift but everything appeared ok when I got the gear sets back from the shop Is there anything I could have mixed up that would keep 4th from showing or even clicking into gear?

16 flashes indicates a fault in the transmission system. It does NOT indicate an problem with the Duty C. Its telling you to put the transmission in read mode and pull the codes off it. As for your issue, either bad VSS, bad clutch pack or broken input gear to the AWD end of the transmission

common failure on the Gen 2 Outbacks/Gen3 Legacys. I've replaced quite a few of the stock stereo/decks in the past few years. I'm not sure what kills them, I'm starting to wonder if its the cold that kills them because the only time I've seen them die up here is during the winter.

keep in touch with me on the EG33 swap. My SVX body/chassis is getting worn out to the point of its a money pit so I've been comtemplating dumping the motor into my lifted OB My biggest hurdle is the wiring harness merge. I have a spare 92 (04/91 mfg date) SVX at the shop with the engine already pulled so as soon as we see some temps above 15F I'll start pulling the harness. Did you notice any powerband shift running the UEL header over stock exhaust? I've been close to buying a set of headers from subie101, but if theres not a noticeable difference the $$$ could go to a different part of the car (like a LSD front carrier) Snorkel setup, are you running a pre-filter at the end of the snorkel or just 1 air filter before the MAF? Sorry bout all the questions, just not too many Gen1 outbacks/Gen2 Legos that are lifted and actively post on the board

put V-Powers in it and be done with it. Iridiums are a waste of money. Got tricked into buying them for my SVX a few years ago = random misfires. Put cheap V-powers back in it = misfires gone

so a 350 has been tried and done in a Subaru. As long as its been done, I dont know if I want to do it lol. Might have to try to fit a big block in it then. Goal is to keep firewall intact, radiator would end up in the rear anyways just for safety and to keep it clean. and since its gonna be on solid axles, the length of the tranny/xfer case really shouldn't

I almost bet its a cv axle. I had a nasty shimmy/wobble in my 98 5MT OB when I first bought it. Had a few mechanic buddies test drive it and they all swore up and down it was wheel bearings. I changed out the drivers side axle (boot was original, intact to leaks) with a random EJ axle I had laying around the shop and the wobble stopped completely Theres an issue with the Gen 1 OB and the axles causing vibration/wobble

I got a few spare cars laying around up here in the frozen north. Good straight bodies, some with no titles so me and a few buddies have been thinking about what the biggest engine we could stuff into a a wagon body/chassis. I know its gonna take tube framing the bottom to accept Dana Axles. Possibilities we have come up with: 4.3L Vortec mated 4L60E trans running Dana 44 axles 350 Vortec mated to 4L60E trans with Dana 44 axles with 3/4 ton shafts and ujoints 300 Ford Inline 6 mated to a 4 speed Manual with a Ford 9" rear and 44 Front Dodge 3.8L V6 mated to a Trans axle, but the engine would be mounted conventional setup. The diff on the transaxle would be welded, one side would be used from the rear axle, the other side to the front axle Thoughts? I know that engines this big are gonna bend/track and possibly destroy the Subaru body/unibody. This rig would be mainly used for mud drags/bogging

Someone should start making those... I'd buy one

yah, the speedo cable thing is something that didnt really cross my mind. My SVX uses the electric signal type speedo, so I never had issues with mine. Got my buddy putting the cable in his car now, I should know something soon. I imagine the VSS1 seeing a speed again will prolly fix it. Thanks for the advice guys appreciate it And yes the the gearing is 4.44 in the rear. I put the VLSD carrier in a 4.44 case and the tranny shifts fine, hold her to the floor and it shifts around 6 grand. Trans came out of a 98 Forester Oh the things that make me thankful for my 5MT cars.. All though I've never had an issue with my autos either lol. I just hate working on friends cars cuz they are too lazy

keep me posted on where everythings at with this locker build. I'm interested in 1 for sure, possibly a second one.

I've never had ShawnW work on any of my cars cuz its a 4000 mile drive to bring them to him. If I was closer, I'd give him my SVX and say make it better! I have dealt with him on this forum for a long time now, 9 years iirc. He's always been a standup guy, always was prompt and professional.

Hey guys, posting this about my buddies 91 SS EJ22T with a 4EAT in it. He got the car off an older guy that drove that car with very little maintenence. Car has ~150k miles on it, turbo does still boost up car has those nice little EJ22T balls like it should. He blew out the high side clutches on the original 3.9 ratio 4EAT so we decided to put in a Forester 4.44 like I did in my SVX. He didnt tell me before hand that his all wheel drive acted up. So I finish the swap (my 4.44 I donated to the cause was a working driving car, spun the rear wheels as I drifted the forester into the shop, so I know the clutch pack and duty C were working) Now for the issues that hes having with it. On flat ground, its 2 wheel drive. You floor it to spool up the awd clutch pack, nothing happens with the rear wheels. If you hold the e-brake (which I dont recommend with an auto while flooring the gas) it will activate the all wheel drive. So will slightly holding the brakes down while accelerating. I've rebuilt a few of the clutch packs/tail shaft housings on 4EATs and I dont remember ever seeing symptoms like he is having. I keep telling him he has to have a body side wiring harness issue, and that its not the transmission because of the fact that the car did the same stuff before I put the 4.44 in the car. Check engine light is on, I dont know if he ever bothered pulling the codes but I'm almost positive its an IAC issue because the car has idle issues occasionally when its cold outside. Speedo cable is snapped, but if I remember right the 4EAT doesnt shift from the speedo reading it shifts from Throttle angle and line pressure of the tranny correct? Someone/Anyone have any advice or places to look I'd appreciate it. Its warmed up, dumped 6 inches of new white fluffy stuff and our local ice track is screaming out names. I'd like to get his awd functioning properly so I can stomp on that EJ22T with my EG33

11:1 with a turbo? Can we say detonation queen? I love the idea of Frankenmotors, to the point where I'm building one myself, but its staying an N/A engine.

If your tank does have a hole in it, Seal-All does work to patch tanks. My 86 wagon started leaking 4 or 5 years ago, we cut a pair of old jeans, made some patches applied seal-all > denim > seal-all >denim > seal-all and it stopped leaking. That tanks seen a few big hits since we patched it and its still holding up. With it being an EJ car in the year ranges that the filler pipe was know to rot out, im thinking thats most likely what is it. Have someone pour gas down the filler next and watch for the leak

bad pinion bearing or bad side bearings on the diff carrier will also cause a nasty vibration. I had a customers legacy in the shop yesterday that had a bad vibration/whine around 45-60 mph, everything checked out ok, except the diff was low on oil and stinky. flushed/replaced the gear oil and it quieted down some and most of the vibration went away.

oh and btw the knock sensors are the same part from 95-2010+? the pin can be easily removed from the connector with a straight pick and you just swap the plastic connector. But a knock sensor prolly isnt causing your issue either. It will throw a knock sensor code when/if its bad

check fuel pressure. should be ~35psi O2 sensors dont really cause the symptoms that you are having

the pump bracket that bolts to the block might be different. I've ran into that on a few of the Gen 1 Outbacks. The 3 bolts that actually bolt down the bracket are the same on both Gen 1 and Gen 2, but one of the pumps is slightly wider iirc