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torxxx

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Everything posted by torxxx

  1. but if I was to get new struts and shocks, what brand do you guys recommend for a EA82 GL Wagon?
  2. you dont need to jack your car up to bleed the brakes
  3. Heres what Mudrat told me when I asked about a lift for my ea82: Well, 6" lift installed would run about $700.00 and I'd need the car about 2 weeks.......???? if you could afford the cost, I'd say go 8" and then we can stuff the Nissan Transfer case behind your 5 speed, and give you all kinds of gears to run bigger tires...... So if you want a t-case you are gonna have to go 8 inch
  4. if I remember correctly, with a ea82 you'd have to go lift 8 inches to fit a t-case under it
  5. You have e-brake because its a cable brake Rebleed your brakes, and make sure the brake booster is working properly which order did you bleed the brakeS? I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) it goes front pass, back driver front driver, back pass.
  6. I talked to mudrat about it about a month ago. I was thinkin about doin it to my ea82.. I dont see it being any more complicated then doin the EA81. The subframes would be similar. The driveshafts would be the hardest part I think I'd pm Mudrat79. He would most likely have the best advice.
  7. damn.. maybe I'll see if my JY has some newer used ones so I can just swap them out. Mine are so worn out that I can almost bottom out my front just by pushing down on it
  8. the way I figured mine out was put my hand on the cam covers and you can feel the tick through the cover but yea if it goes away, its most likely the hydralic lashers
  9. well if you dont have the shield, I dont really know how you could hook it up. Goto a JY and pull off that shield and install it.. I think you could get away with just the top half of it. I got a piece of heavy duty exhaust hose (used on salt water cooled Gas engines in fishing boats) Mine is like 2 1/4 inch.. its too big, but the bottom of the hose melted to the shield sealing it so I dont need a hose clamp on it. On the top it goes on the inlet of the air filter assembly thats on the passenger side facing the back of the car What are you using to fix the exhaust leak?
  10. damn. how long of a project am I lookin at time wise to replace shocks/struts all the way around?
  11. sounds like wheel bearings to me cvs usually click and pop when you turn sharp when they are going out check the cv's by checking for up and down movement.. grab the shaft from under the car and pull straight down and then push up (on the middle of the shaft) They shouldnt have play going up and down, just side to side
  12. alright... sounds good when I buy the new struts, do they come as one piece? or are they strut and then a spring so I'd have to put them togehter?
  13. yeah, and I'm sure the few times you've probably drank alcohol and gotten behidn the wheel, well that prolly wouldnt go over good with your insurance company either.. Just chill out dude. He simply offered a cheap solution to a problem Quit being an rump roast Oh and worry more about other peoples exhausts rusting out instead of bitching about bailing wire
  14. theres a lot of things that "could" happen on the road man. you could be T boned by some female driver in a SUV who was talkin on her cell phone and didnt see you.. I dont see you out trying to stop that from happening. Your gas tank mounts could snap and you could drag your gas tank down the road.. sparks, boom your car blows up Arent you worried about that? better go check those mounts.. Your tie rod could suddenly snap. You ujoints on your driveshaft could snap and jackknife down and flip your car off the road..
  15. If I replace the struts and springs up front on my 86 GL wagon, is it going to throw my alignment off? I need new struts but I dont have the money to buy new struts and then pay 100 bucks to get the alignment done by a shop And as far as the back shocks, is there even an alignment adjustment on the them?
  16. if you know how to use bailing wire right, you dont really have to worry about it. Every car/truck I've owned has had the exhaust bailing wired up somewhere, and I never had it break. I drove for 4 months with the yoke wired into the back of my tranny cuz I coudlnt get a new drive shaft.. That stayed in place even out rallyin and havin my car try to pop its self into 4 wheel drive from wheel hop
  17. I ran 15w-40 all winter last year up here in Alaska.. worked just fine.... 2hawks - There are specs in a FSM or a Haynes/chiltons manual that says how much play the impeller (I think) is supposed to have with in its mechaincal limit. If its got too much play, replace it. I've never changed an oil pump but from what I've been told, its under 2 hour project.
  18. ok.. then they are a safety Item on a newer subaru. the older ones, they dont really seem to have difference on or off. I've had my car up to 100 mph with it off and the body rolls a little more in corners, but thats it. Gained 3/4 inch of suspension travel in the front with it off.. Less wheel chatter over washboard bumps. Its not like you can take a wagon into a corner at 65 on the roads up here anyways.
  19. subiemech you are the man. I was tryin for carfax because SOA said that they didnt have a history of my car being sold in the United States. The lady on the phone said that I had either bought the car in Canada or in Hawaii??? Makes me wonder It was bought at Subaru of Renton in Seattle, Washington
  20. as soon as I get all the emissions stuff ripped off my ea82 carb.. I will do a mpg test and post the findings
  21. I changed the name of the album heres the new addy http://usmb.net/gallery/January-20%2C-2003
  22. I'm not mudrat, but this may help check your fuseable links. They are in that black box right in front of the coil You may have burned one of those out and that would amke you not get spark
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