torxxx

well if thoes alt. belts arent tight enough and its night time (you got your headlights on) your charging system aint gettin enough juice.. The combo off all the electronics running and low voltage may have something to do with the fuel problem. Maybe the pump isnt getting enough fuel And for the carb icing up.. I had it happen this weekend at -50F 1/8th inch of ice in covering the side of the carb. I guess thats what happens when your in 2 feet of powder doin 45 mph jumpin berms Check the vac. actuator off the hot pipe that runs from the exhaust to the air intake.. if that doesnt open, you could have iced up Did you check the linkage on the hot cold arm for the heater? you should be able to hear a difference in air flow from moving it from hot to cold.. if not, something in the linkage could be messed up..

when you put it all back together, dont put lock tite on the outside end of those studs. The only place you need want lock tite is on the part of the stud that screws into the block. if you are really worried about the nut backing itself off, double nut it. make sure you use a tap to clean up the threads in the block before you put them back in.. and for the lock tite on the block, use the red stuff that needs special tools to break lose.. you dont want that stud coming out again because every time you do the steel stud into aluminum, the threads get fuct Oh yea and I guess I said it wrong about the jb weld burning off.. it wont burn up completely. It just gets that burning flesh smell and it gets really brittle.. go hit the jb weld wth a hammer.. I bet it shatters

take the air ride suspension off and go with reg. shocks and struts.. The pneumatic system is really problematic from what I've learned.

Anyone registered with carfax that can get me a detailed carfax of my car.. I called SOA today about the recalls on ym car and they gave me this you gotta do a car fax crap. So yea if anyone is registered wth carfax and would help me out, it would be greatly appreciated! VIN: JF2AN53B9GE471918 thanks guys

hehe Safety wise, if your going to drive that OB with the busted sway bar, you might as well take it all the way off.. your going to end up ripping stuff off the bottom of your car if that thing gets hung up anywhere

I made one trip last year from Fairbanks to Valdez.. From the University to the ferry dock in valdez is 400 miles I made it there with the fuel light on, filled up when I got off the ferry and took 12.7 gallons.. leaving two tenths of a gallon in my car Figures out to 31 to 32 mpg in my EA82 I agree with you guys sayin it is possible to get 40 mpg with an EA81 and EA82

if your running an accel coil, use accel wires.. like I said early.. that 8 cylinder premade univseral set is perfect for our cars you get 2 sets of wires for the 4 cylinder for like 24 bucks can't beat that

Dealer + Cheap enough? Those words are to never be used together on this board again. The dealer is the last place I'd go Check a parts store before going to the dealer

DUDE YOU DONT HAVE TO THEY EITHER SAY UNIVERSAL 8 CYLINDER (WHICH ARE PRE MADE)OR MAKE YOUR OWN IN BIG LETTERS ON THE FRONT OF THE BOX oh yea and I realized my caps lock were on too lol

I bought the Accel Superstock wire kit.. I bought the Universal 8 cylinder one.. it was like 24 bucks or something they fit good, and you have extras if you need em

I ran into the same problem somewhere else in the car, and yes black with white stripe is the hot wire.. if theres a solid black wire involved, its always usually the ground

Actually no, my car is about 90% 4wd.. The only time I use just front wheel drive is the occasional reverse sh!tty out of a parking spot........ But yea AWD might handle different without it.. But I say try it

is it a knock or a ticking? I thought the same thing last year and then I came to the board and found out that EA82s valve lashers go out and they dont pump up so you hear a pretty loud ticking noise.. I thought my engine was going to go the first time I heard the noise. Start the car, go out and listen and try to pinpoint a cylinder and area on the block/head/cam covers where the noise is coming from. Does the noise go away after you warm the car up? What is the oil pressure at an idle before its warm and after its warm and whats the rpm when your driving? I ran my car low on oil a few times and it got pretty noisy but after the next oil change it quieted down

I'd do what GD said to do on your previous post. Take the whole sway bar off. And look around at JYs for a used one. A lot of guys (including me) with the 80s and 90s wagons just take the front stabilzer off. my car handles a lot better with out it. Tested it up to 97 mph and it didnt seem to hinder the driveability at all

yup I agree with GD.. Just unbolt the rest of it. You dont really need the sway bar

northguy - alaskan's slow down? I drive 15 mph over the speed limits in the winter time.. better hookup in 4wd.. lol maybe I'm just crazy but I wish it was winter time year round... Thats it, I'm takin my subaru and movin to the north pole... (wait, its only a 20 min drive from here)

You woulda saved 20 grand

yeah.. the thing that worries me the most about redoin my exhaust is having to bend something to make it it... But yea what you said about yours, that sounds like a better plan I wonder if a flowmaster will clamp on with out welding or wending, 87flowmasterGL any comments?

I'd love to see anyone come out with a flat 8 cylinder. Could you imagine the horses you could get outta that thing.... I'ma make me one. one day, oh yes...

valve springs are like any other sort of spring.... they wear out over time. just like the springs in a mattress, springs on a strut etc.. kelly if I were you and you were really worried about the springs, buy just 1 oem spring and test it. see how much pressure the new one takes to compress compared to your oil ones.. if the new one takes considerable amount more, replace em

you guys sayin a 300 hp pushrod 4 cylinder or just 300 hp pushrod in general? Arent the early 80's Ford and GM motors pushrod? GM's 454 was over 300 hp

that smell? did it smell like a gasket burning? if you had a bolt broken off, that would totally do away with the exhaust cooling and all the heat would be right at the flangle and gasket.. I think the gasket burned up Also JB weld isnt made for exhausts.. and it makes a nasty smell when it burns.. I put some on my exhaust like 3/4 way back on the car and it burned up there so I can imagine what the stuff up front that you put looks like. There is calcium carbonate in jb weld (same stuff as in bone) so it kinda gets the human flesh/hair burning smell to it when it gets too hot. comp test wouldnt hurt.. I'd just get a new gasket for the flange and put the bolts back on and drive it and see how it feels. doing that isnt going to do any more damage than you would have already done to it, if something did go wrong...

can I run my ea82 with 118k miles on it without a Cat? if so, I realize its goin to make it lots louder and the exhaust dirtier (screw the IM testing) but is it going to hurt anything to go with something say leave the stock y pipe, gut or remove the cat and then just run straight pipe to a turbo mufler in the same stock place?

true about the STi did soob ever put a timing chain on any of their engines?

caleb - I love mine too... it just seems too problematic compared to the ea81