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you'd have to series paralell the wires to make it so it wasnt making 24 volts and it will only work if both batteries are kept charged.. (you'd have to split the wire off the alternator that goes to the battery and make it so you could hook it to both.

I'ma go check the JY since I dont have much money these days.. Hopefully the guy will give me a carb and let me work it off pulling the parts that he needs... Thanks for the help guys.. Snowman, lemme see how big my next paycheck is and I'll let you know

Well in my messing with the dash, I did somethng that messed the heater up.. The air flow is stuck on Vent, but the off button still works.. Did I unplug a vacumn somehow putting my dash back together? Anyone have this happen or have a solution to what diaphrams I have to wire open or closed to get my defrost to work again.. Its -20F again so my car is pretty much undriveable without Defrost working

great.... rebuilding a ****achi sounds like I should just break down and get the weber....

Ideas for causes of Loss of fuel in float bowl? fuel pump goin bad?

So I got lit and decided I was going to pull my entire dash apart and clean it.. I'm thinking of changin the color of the bulbs in the instrument panel.. Has anyone done this before??? If so, how in the hell do I get the instrument panel out of the dash? and what about disconnecting the Tach and speedo cables from the back of it? I have enough room to get my fingers behind the panel but thats it.. Please help..

we are talkin about EA-82s right? I take it you guys must have power steering then. My 86GL its easy to change the water pump.. Now that I know what I have to take off, I can do it in less then an hour.. How hard is it to take out the raidator?

yup. I just went out and bought some flex hose. I'm going to cut the resonator off and then attach the flex hose from the mid exhaust flange to the piece running to the muffler.. a lil bailing wire, duck tape and some loud rump roast Disturbed and it should be testable in 20 minutes.. brb

Cv Joints.. Grab then and shake them up and down.. They should move just a little bit (less than 1/8th inch) if they move more then that, you'll be replacing those. Check the rear driveshaft and inspect the u-joints and carrier bearing Check the waterpump shaft (check for up and down movement) Double check the exhaust for rusting out spots And the turbo can be replaced.. I dont think its that hard.. never owned a turbo soob so I can't really say

Good call.... My rules are never pay over 5 or 600 bucks for something that smokes when its running..

Well I got the two suction lines to the ASV valve plugged off.. what I'm wondering now is there anything else that I need to do or unhook? I dont want to burn something up from having those hoses plugged off.

The white smoke is prolly the turbo.. Maybe someone else here can second me on that and the hard shifting with the auto could be a number of things.... is it a 3 speed auto? My sister had one of those in her soob and that thing shifted wierd as hell.. I hated it Could have been worn gears, dirty tranny (did you check the tranny dipstick and if so, how'd the ATF look?

Thx man, but I found that when I searched before I posted....

GL-10's are nice cars.. Theres an 88 sitting in a JY up here that I just looked at.. Real nice.. except for the front of the car being burned up (engine fire) I don't think changing the turbo would fix the smoke part.. Guess it depends on the color of the smoke.. Blue smoke = rings Black smoke could be turbo. Full time 4 wheel aint bad at all if your going to rally it. I'd ditch it for a DR 4wd 5 Speed Manual. It sounds like the car you looked at is well aged.. I'd look around some more. Find one with out the rear wheel well fix.. If one side did it, the other side is going to do it soon. I'd go look for a 86 GL if you want a good wagon. They are DR 4wd 5 speed Mans. After 6/85 (manufactured date) they changed some parts on the timing belt part of the engine and from what I've been told, they have more problems with them. Just my thoughts....

I broke my exhaust pipe this weekend and people are complaining my car is too loud..... So what I'm looking at is: the outlet on the resonator (think thats what its called) broke off the exhaust pipe its self. I want to remove the exhaust at the flange and cut out that resonator and just put a 24 inch section of straight pipe in its place... the only thing is that the reonator inlet and outlet are offset. The inlet is almost centered and the outlet is offset the left side.. Has anyone ever done anything to their exhaust and know what degree of bend I need to put in the 24 inch piece I'm going to add in? Or will it fit without having to bend the pipe? Thanks... Oh yeah... Before this exhaust break, the engine has a slight backfire when I let off hte accel. and push the clutch in. Now its really bad.. Sounds like a gunshot every time I shift. I've read the posts on the ASV valve being bad and blocking it off with a quarter.. Would that make a difference with havinga busted ex. pipe?

Hey guys- My EA-82 is being a POS again.... I just changed the coil, wires, plugs, fuel filter (my GL only has 1 that I can find....) and my engine is doing this screwy cutting out B.S. on corners.. I have no clue what this could be. The car has never done this before. It will sputter hard at about 2500 rpm and then I'd downshift and rev the piss outta her and it would clear out and run alright for a lil while... I ran 2 bottles of the red bottled heat 2 tanks ago and its still acting up... HELP!!!!! I need ideas....

Add me to the list also. And same as the other two posts, if you get 50, give the change to the board

Hey guys, I'm gonna make a new guide to tuning up the EA-82's for the USRM. So what I'm looking for is any tips and/or tricks that anyone has for these motors. First of all, Specify what the tip is for (such as EA-82 turbo, EA-82 SPFI, MPFI or Carb [and what kind of carb]) Get back at me guys...

Match the VIn numbers on the engine and the body??? Not sure if they are the same numbers or not

86 GL wagon 5 speed D/R 4WD - 117k miles on it... I was gettin abut 20 mpg, just changed out coil to accel coil, wires and new plugs.. prolly gettin about 27 mpg now

Fairbanks, Alaska is the same way right now.. God, Everyone should drive a soob in the winter time.. You always see the soobs haulin rump roast on the ice.. Prolly 20 mph faster then everyone else on the road..

Fouling the plugs is more or less a 2-stroke engine term.. Its from flooding, the plug gets coated in Fuel/oul and won't spark To reverse this, pull the plug wipe off the excess fuel (plugs should never be wet when you pull then) and then heat the tip of the plug (electrode I beleive) witha lighter for about a minute and then put it back in... To me, it sounds like your timing belt setup is not correct on the drivers ride..

These green connectors your referred to? You mean the Check Engine Light wires? And would I have to connect the two green ones if I was adusting my timing on a non turbo?

exactly what TheSubaruJunkie said... my set up will be the same as his.. I reccomend this to anyone with a carbbed EA-82

Lol.. I just checked the weather... 40-50 Mph winds tonite.. Gonna be real cold.. Anyways, the test drive went great.. Car runs way smoother and accelerates a lil better.. Can't wait to get the accel wires and Ngk plugs in there...