wagon_basher

Its an ea82t.. Its currently at stock boost with a TMIC.. Okay if the info is right about the oil pump Ill change it ASAP.. The problem with it driving daily is that it has no torque.. It seems like I have to boost it to even get it to 35 mph.. Its so gutless.. Sometimes it will sputter around 5000 rpms but not all the time.. Most of the time its just feels gutless.. What can i look for!!

need some help come on!!!

So I bought a JDM motor-got it-Re-Gasketed the whole thing!!!! My problem is that Im a newb to the Subaru thing and I did not replace the o-ring that keeps oil flow to lifters.. So a couple problems.- I used the entire intake manifold-injectors off the JDM motor but used my sensors of the running car.. Well I put the oil pump off the old motor cause it had good oil pressure along with all new o ring but as i was putting it in and this is hard to explain but there is a little copper ball and spring held in by a washer type thing right inside where the oil filter would seal-Well that popped out and I could not get it back on so i left it out and started the motor and no tick but as i drove a tick devoloped and got fairly bad.. But after I let it sit for awhile it will start right up and not tick??? Is this ball and spring the problem? or the o-ring or do i need a new oil pump.. Also the thing does not feel as fast as it used to be.. Before this motor the old ea82t had cracked heads-bad compression-TMIC-10lbs or boost and it was faster than my car now-Timing is set at 20 degrees btdc.. Any suggestions on what i can do to repair- Also under boost around 5000 rpms it startes breaking up a little bit.. What to look for... THanks

So do I use my ea82 harness and splice in the ej22 connectors or do I use the ej22 ecu...

So i got a 1989 GL-10 with digital dash-well the compression is gone and heads are cracked.. Well I was going to buy another ea82t before I found a Legacy wagon the generation after mine with a manual trans-wiring harness-ecu and motor with 88,000 miles but got crushed from the rear.. Well the guy wants to sell me the whole car for 90$.. SO i got to researching and read through all posts that I thought would help. Well im so confused. How do I wire up the fuel pump. What do i do about the digi dash. Ill probably use aftermarket gauges for oil pressure and water temp. I look at the ecu pinouts and It confuses me more. I get the whole adapter plate-flywheel modification-radiatior modification-crossmember mod-but wiring i get lost.. If anyone has an answer for me i would appreciate it.. THanks

Alright well I got the axle cup apart and the grease sheild off!! I had no time to pull the spindle out of the diff so I got a slide hammer and heat and zep 45 and no go. The axle cup is just sitting there. So i tore apart my old axle and got teh hub side spindle and got it all put together with no axle just the spindles. I also have to drive with diff lock on or it barely moves. Will this mess anything up. Im going to take it to a Subaru shop on monday and see what they can do!! Any conerns!!

Oh okay i see know... I will try that out tomarrow and get back to you guys later and let you know how everything goes. Thanks for all the help!!!

Is there some sort of write up on how to take the stub off! It sounds pretty clear but do i take the diff cover off at all or is the #10 Torque head bolt on the outside of the diff. case. Pictures would be great!!!

Do the stubs on the rear diff come out.. My car is a 1988 Full Time AWD Turbo Wagon with a LSD.

Has anyone had this problem. I read alot about it happening on the Hub side but never on the Diff side???

Yeah I will get the drill bit tomarrow but there is no way to get a hammer in there and make a good hit and this is my only car as of now. My other car just went into paint today!! So any other suggestion!!!

Alright so my axle ripped a couple of weeks ago so I begin the axle removal. I get it off the hub very easily and every thing is going right along. I can find my 3/16 punch so I go at it with a screwdriver and get the pin to knock loose. So then I get a skinny screw dirver and try hammering it out. Well needless to say the screw driver went all the way through the pin. Long story short we get the pin out but in pieces. So i start to pull the axle off the spindle and it wont budge. Nothing at all. I look to see if there is more pin but you can see straight through the hole. When you tap on the axle there is a piece of metal that is loose and moving around in the free space of the axle/spindle. But when you push on the peice of metal it just moves to the side and you cant even see it. So we have heated it up, pb blasted it pryed at it just about everything I could think of.. Im out of Ideas so i need some from you. Let me know thanks!!

Well we fabricated the pipe from turbo to intercooler out or a 2" u-bend and then the pipe from the intercooler to throttle body was a left over piece from a turbo kit laying around a local tuner shop!!! All and all it came together pretty well and yes it is a stock STI BPV and it is not recirculated into the intake. It seems to run okay but there is some studdering around 0 psi where the BPV is leaking a little but but once it boosts its solid with no studdering. Its worked oit really well and like I said it feels a lot better up in the RPM's. Thnaks for the feedback!!!

I think instead of mounting it from the top and molding around where it goes over the two humps. Im going from the bottom so the bottom lip of the scoop is under the hood and then rivet it down and bold the gaps is with bondo. I think I may paint the inner part(inside the two humps) of the hood black and leave the sides dark blue. Hope it works out good! Also then I can run the WRX splitter to!!!

So it turned out pretty good and feels a ton better up top in the RPM's. I have a 2005 hood scoop and were just trying to get in installed cause as you know it wider than the humps on the hood. Let me know what you think!!!

Okay I posted about a week ago about my cel. Well Ive read about 10 different posts all with different answers. Some say plug the black some say pkug the green some say the led is on the ecu and some say its on the 02 monitor. Okay well I need the truth for sure. I have a 1988 gl-10 wagon. So I see the connectors and the ecu. What process do i go through to get my cel code. I see the green led in the back of the ecu but it flashes steady green flashes with the key on the on position. I dont get it. Someone let me know!!! Oh yeah I have also been to this website http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art It doesn't really say where the flash is from. Thanks everyone!!!!

Where is the cts located on the motor????

Mine just stays on so what should I do hook the white connectors????? !!!Update!!!Driving Along and the check engine light goes off. But after a couple minutes it begins to studder under boost. A couple minutes later it turns on and then no longer studders. What the hell. I m confused.!!!Update!!! Also another question the factory a/c tensioner bolt broke so i removed the belt and since then the car has been idleing high like 1800. Would this be caused by the belt removal or something else. Thanks for the help!!!

Its hard to start all the time. I just put new plugs and wires. But yeah all the time. You could drive it and it would be at normal operating temp and turn it off and then try to start a second later and you would have the same problem. I cant figure it out!!

So I got a 1988 Gl-10 wagon. Well it started having problems starting. It would just turn over for about 40 seconds and then put slowly sputter to idle. It would idle down when started and then idle up to normal idle. What this could be I dont know. If anyone has had this problem let me know what it was. Also I havn't been able to find good info on what connectors to connect for my car. I think there is green and clear ones under the dash near the ecu. Which ones do I connect to check the cel. If anyone could walk me through this it would be awesome. Thanks