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I have always used subaru remaned axles and they always fit just right. Taking slight pressure to get the axle seated in the bearing. My problem started with the new bearings being out of spec but still usable, didnt take quite as much to get the axle in as yours did, but still bearings should not come out with the axle. Ill check what brand the bearings are when I get back to the car. Thinking of using these bearings, any opinions? double sealed & abec-1 ( select regular for abec-1) http://www.mcmaster.com/#6207-ball-bearings/=fbzpyp

Finally got it up in the air and checked some stuff out, drive shaft is fine as far as I can tell. When spinning the drivers side front wheel in neutral I can hear some rumbling. Pretty sure it needs wheel bearings. Last time I put in wheel bearings (pass side) it seemed much hard to get the axle thru the new ones vs old good ones - how tight is to tight? I had to take that same axle out of the new bearings (ripped boot ;P) and when doing so the inner wheel bearing came out with the axle. This is telling me the tolerance is to tight in the axle shaft and not tight enough in the knuckle. Thought I would mention this and see what people have to say. Ive done quite a few axles in different subarus and never had this much of a problem getting an axle out and back in the wheels bearing. I double checked both sides to make sure the washer is on correctly.

I didn't get a chance to look at it yet, it will be the first thing I look at though. My brother had the same issue on a gl few years ago and it all kinds of noise.

Steering wheel does shake very little - more at higher speeds, 45 and up.

Its def a rotating noise, pretty sure the suspension is good. I did notice it turns slightly faster/easier more one way then the other - what is this a sign of? The inner boot ripped twice on pass side and reapaired right away, last time was 2-3 months ago. Wondering if I should open it up and pack more lube in there and see if the noise changes at all. hope the axle doesnt need replaced - they are the last subaru remaned ones I can get according the subaru parts guy. I put the bearings in by tapping on the outer race with a 1" dia. aluminum round bar. When I do the normal wheel bearing check by grabbing the tire at 12 & 6 I get a slight knock on both front wheels. Has been this way for 6-7 yrs. I will def chack the drive shaft when I get home tonight. Thanks

92 loyale wagon 4x4 5-speed Started hearing a noise from I think is coming from the passenger side front. I replaced the wheel bearings thinking that was it and its still there. As the suspension goes up and down over slight changes in the road the noise changes some, also changes when turning as the car pitches from side to side. I know its not an outer cv joint (i have heard those before) or the wheel bearings( new). Only thing left is the inner cv joint. I have rebooted this inner cv joint twice in the past - but I caught it early both times within 1-3 days. Is there any way I can figure out if it is the inner cv joint before buying a new one and end not fixing the issue. I also have a 90 automatic loyale parts car - can I use those axles in a manual car. I think I read somewhere they are differnt but cant hurt to ask. Thanks

I dont think i have ever seen or heard the aux/elect. fan run. Looking for ways to test it and find out why I have never seen it on. Asuming I can run 12v to it, just to see if the motor is even any good. Thanks for your help

Ill try pumping fast and see if any presure builds. There is allot of noise coming from the MC area makes me think its shot.

Clear all codes and drive it some and see if you get a cel. Even if you dont get a cel check the codes in memory. Ive cleared codes and had no cel come on but then checked the memory codes and had some. Kinda weird but it happened.

The car sat for awhile and a mech. said it needed replaced. I couldnt remember what the brakes felt like before, so I replaced it, they felt better but wanst sure if they were 100% around 10,000 miles ago

there are 2 of them under the intake just follow the line from the egr to the correct one, the have diff plugs on them Mine went bad and i found a used one with wrong plug just rewired it and has been good for the past 4 yrs.

I put a new master cylinder in a little over a yr ago:mad: was parts store master cylinder if that matters much. When I was bench bleeding it I remember it beeing hard to push esp more then 1/2 way had to lean into it to get it to travel the whole way. Maybe a bad part.

92 loyale, 4wd, spfi. The brakes have been somewhat week over the last yr or so. Peddle travel when braking was long and would only start to slow/stop the car at the last 30% of peddle travel. Was getting pretty tired of it so I decided to see how well it would actually stop the car or if it would even lock up the tires at all. So I pushed on it pretty hard then it felt like something blew and peddle go to the floor. The odd part is I cant find any fluid leaking, master cylinder is still full????????????????????? I pushed on it enough trying to find the leak it should have been empty by now. getting alot of air noise coming from the master cylinder area. If the booster is blown I wouldnt think it would act like this. didnt see any rips in the boot under the fill cap either. Any ideas on where to start, maybe try bleeding them and see what happens. Thanks

yea, prob would give the same results or at least less of a bang. Mine still gave a small clunk without disengaging the clutch. maybe thats how they were when the cars were new also.

I noticed mine takes a bit of time to disengage and then it bangs out of 4wd also. Now I push the clutch in right as I turn it off and its smooth and disengages right away. This doesnt fix the problem but at least it wont be banging out of 4wd, cant be good fot it.