
shaggywerewolf
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Ann Arbor
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2003 OBW
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Hey all - My roomie is looking at potentially buying a 2000 OBS MT w/ 60K on it. Dealer wants 10K, but he thinks he can talk them down to 9k. I told him he needs to look for the standard Subie stuff - ie. matching tires, torque bind, etc. If I'm not mistaken, this is the 2.2L engine, is it not? So it should be due for a timing belt, right? Anything else he should be looking out for? If he tells me he's serious about making an offer, I'll probably be back to see if anyone with a Carfax subscription would be willing to help out, but he's still shopping at the moment. Thanks.
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So have you actually set off the metal detector in the airport? Most surgical hardware is non-ferrous; usually titanium so they're not supposed to set off detectors..... Yeah, the bike looks to be relatively unscathed, at least grossly. The Legacy looks like it's in a salvage yard - was it totalled? Modern vehicles wreck so easily....just like they're designed to. :-p
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2000 Legacy GT Ltd. should have the Phase 2 2.5L. http://www.cars101.com/legacy2000.html T-belt interval on the Phase 2, IIRC, is 105K. So you're due for it in about 10K if it hasn't been done already. Engine is interference so neglecting it can be disastrous if the belt fails. If you have to do it, there are a bunch of other things that should be addressed while you have the covers and belt off. (search for t-belt on forums) Other issues that pop up often are torque bind (is this an auto or manual?), and head gasket leakage. These have been talked about to death here, so again, I'd do a search since they've been explained far better than I could in a single post. Also check out the sticky FAQ if you haven't done so already. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554
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The second to last vehicle (before the sedan; then the fire dept. shows up) is an outback. Don't know what the first one was, but I initially thought it looked kind of like a Jeep Grand Cherokee or something....that guy was out of control. He should've just stopped after he hit that telephone pole but instead he punches the throttle - where did he think he was gonna go, especially after running into a bunch of cars beforehand? I must admit though, the result was quite impressive.
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The system traditionally works on a type of thermal switch where a resistor expands and shrinks to modulate completion of the circuit when you apply current. Therefore, the system is sensitive to the amount of current that gets drawn through it. Too much current (too many bulbs, wrong wattage bulb, etc.) and the resistor expands and contracts rapidly. Too little current (ie. burned out bulb) and the flashed blinks slowly, or may not blink at all. I'm with the "wrong bulb/socket" camp on this one.
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My 1 week loaner had a 5 speed sportshift while my OBW was in the shop. Drove it about 600 miles during that period up to the northern LP and back. The loaner wasn't a Subaru, but I can't imagine that the experience would be significantly different if it was. The novelty wore off pretty quick, and shifting became more of an annoyance rather than a necessity. Even when passing on I75 it felt unnecessary - the vehicle had enough power to be pretty responsive anyway. And it still feels like an automatic when you shift. The only interaction is to nudge the shifter up or down, so you might as well leave it in D. At least that's how I felt about it. Maybe it's more fun with a turbo under the hood. :-p
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Well, I own a 2003 OBW, and I'm quite certain that there's no mention in the manual regarding the addition of any kind of conditioner when changing the coolant. I can double check, however, to be sure. I had the car in a month ago for the 30K service, and they indeed put the conditioner in as part of the coolant change. Up until now, I was not aware that the conditioner extended to my MY; I was under the impression that the conditioner was supposed to be added up until late MY02.