MilesFox

how much did you pay for it?

i would recommend selling it whole to a potential subaru enthusiast. a car like this is a great deal for someone who has a spare engine or parts just laying around. I go after cheap cars umder 500 bucks, and the candidates i select are based on what i have for spare parts to fix it up with little cost besides fluids and gaskets. Try your luck at that. if no bites, you can part off a fender or the headlights or some other specific bits, and then junk the rest. the scrapper will give you the same amount regardless of small bits missing, as long as all the heavy things are there, the cat, battery, radiator. they wont miss seatbelt reels or window glass or a headlight if those are easy sells on the craigs or subaru forums. being a later model would command a higher price because there is enough book value left after repairing it to make it worth the investment especially if it is not crashed, bent, or rusted out. Motors can be replaced. Clean bodies sells cars.

I just replaced the rear portion of the driveshaft in my 85 gl wagon. Today, i replaced the battery in my 94 legact GT wagon. I replaced the positive terminal with a brass marine style with a wing nut, easy disconnect without distorting the batt. terminal. Along with this, i topped off my 2500 mile old stnth/blend oil 1/2 qt, and put a shot of ATF in there to do its thing before my next oil change. I put a botle of trans x in the ATF to combat the 'delayed forward engagement' caused by an 'internal pressure seal' and shared an ounce or two with the power steering as it needed a top-off from the pump whining. I rain-x'd my whole car. I used the 'xtree-clean' glass polish to work off the road grime, raine-x treatment outside, fog-x treatment inside, and ummy gummy new rain=x latitude stealth wipers with silver rubber blades, the flat, expensive kind. This cost me 92 bucks at wal-mart. But the car needed it for it's 100,000 mile service interval. I spent 30 bucks on BOSAL brand exhaust gaskets to replace in my entire length of exhaust. Go bosal if you like metal instead of cardboard fel-pro

yes, just flat tow all 4 down. i use the same tow bar to tow anything from an ea81, ea82, xt, 1st and 2nd gen legacy. I have the valley model available at u-haul, and it so happens the pins that go to the bumper mount shackles actually just fit in the subaru's tow loops. yu may want to fashion something more permanent for a mount if using this model. I wanted to fab a bar that would bolt or clamp down to the tow loops, and this bar would have the shackles for the towbar. Subarus tow pretty well

put a rag over the hose to catch fuel, or run the car and unplug the pump so it stalls. i stress fire safety not for this reason, but because you are opening the top of a whole gas tank with gas in it, and all that vapor potential in a confined space. work with the gate open and the windows down. As long as you are not getting dizzy, you are ventilated enough.

if you paid any more than 800 bucks for this car, it is paying for a subaru, since you can get a buick lesabre for the same price, but it's not as fantastic. a good used car is worth the money if it is in good shape. Being familiar withthese cars is the best determinatin of what you would want to pay for one. i got mine for 6oo, but i initially offered 1200 for it before the frontal damage. I could easily sell it for better than 1200, being in similar shape cosmetically, but it has lower miles and awd, and GT package.

more powerful and easier to service. The only complicated part is trimming the harness. i swapped an 01 impreza motor into mine and the only fitment issue i had was the exhaust header interfering with the trans mount(xt6) but that problem would be solved with a impreza trans center section it is most economical to source all your parts from the same donor car, if you can purchase a whole donor car for under 500

it's there, and there are a bunch of 8mm nuts holding it down. it looks like a submarine hatch of sorts. you will have to twist and turn to get the housing/fuel sender out. be careful and dont do what i did. I broke off the little needle on the variable resistor for the sender. This happened on the install, and it was dark out in a grocery store parkinglot emergency fix. overall it was an easy job. be mindful of fire safety.

did your donor engine come with the manifold, or did you swap on your old manifold. keep the sensors from the old manifold if they are working. it sounds like the IAC is not functioning. The engine harness had a ground wire to one of the intake bolts. how is the timing? both belts and disty? disty should be set at 20 deg btdc. the green test clips should be plugged in to set the inital timing, but should remain unplugged for normal operation. if they remain plugged in, it holds the timing static and you get no advance curve.

those parts should be the same from 1990-1999, the 2000 and up(legacy) has a different rear subframe, but should be the same with impreza a few years after. I would attempt this with a long 1/2" dr. extension and a breaker bar. sometimes the impact wont break the torque where a breaker bar will, and then use the umpact to get it the rest of the way. I do like your idea of making holes to shoot some PB in there. depending on the size of your bit, you should be able to find a plastic or rubber plug for your holes

you should be able to find an axle. If you have a turbo with a 5spd, or 4spd full time AT, it will be a 25 spline axle. If it's a 3spd AT, it will have a 23 spline axle. If your parts counter man gets confused with listings, since ea81 and ea82 models overlap the same years. just ask for a 1990 loyale, or XT, specify turbo or not, at or not. If its a 4eat 4spd automatic, just ask for a 4spd, since you will likely get the wrong part if the conterman is not familiar with these.

ok. I met you briefly in that transaaction. didny you come back for that 84 gl-10 as well? I have seen the snow subie video of that car on the youtube. What ever became of it?

rust is better than what to epect, mileage is reasonably low, and the crash damage is cnsderably less than what i am driving. Price, this car is about 12-1500 bucks if its a front whel drive. my ar would have a book value of 2200 with 100,000 mies, if it hadnt been crashed or has no rust (94 legacy gt 4wd). I gave 600 for mine. you would get better than average fuel economy with this car being FWD.

That is not far from me. get n touch with your local subaru folk http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14090&highlight=milwaukee http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121050&highlight=milwaukee i have a spare legacy steering column if you need to rob parts from it. check the ignition switch and its connector pigtail.

try slipping a long pipe or jack handle between the subframe radius rod mount and the control arm to push it down more. I would think its easiest to remove the whole strut, install the spacer and strut combo, and then assemble the strut/knuckle to the control arm. you should be able to unscrew the crossmember nuts on the engine subframe to drop it down about an inch without unbolting it all the way. or you can try jacking up the trans as if you were going t pull the motor, and drop one side of the engine crossmember at a time to get more wiggle room.

the 2 prong is the temp sender for the ECu itself. also, check the idle air control valve to see if the spring inside i not gummed up, an it may not be closing all the way when warm, causing the high idle. i would think this is coincidental, and entirely unrelated to the test connectors.

1. undoing the nuts on the crossmember is easiest and i recommend that. 2.If you take the bolt out of the pitch bar on the engine side, that will do. you can raise the engine up a bit before undoing the exhaust header, which can be a pain in the arse with stripped threads and old gaskets, so i try to leave it be if it is intact as it is. 3. this job can be done without lifting up the motor. There are 3 holes on the back of the crossmember to access the rear pan bolts. Either with a #3 phillips scredriver, or insert a 1/4" dr extension thru the hole, and then plug your socket yo get them out. #4. the pan will drop, but may hang between the motor mounts, tip it sideways, and don't be afraid to nudge it, as it will fit through. you will have to turn the pan a little to clear the pickup tube, but yes, it can be done this way. i use the cork gasket, and use the permatex ultra grey on the engine side. and be careful to not overtorque and break the bolts or split the gasket. A #3 phillips hand snug is all you will need for tightening. the pil pan bolts are m6x1.00 if you need to replace any(with stripped phillips heads)

keep your warranty receipts

as long as the car has not been overheated or sat for long periond of time or old stale coolant it should be fine, as they routinely go 200,000 miles on original gaskets if not neglected. if you pull the cam towers off to service the o-rings, you could make a round on the head bolts with a torque wrench by following the re-torque instructions.

run a higher grade of fuel and see if it goes away. maybe your ignition timing is set too advance. maybe run your shifts at higher rpms with less gas pedal, to reduce load. if haulng up a mountainside in 3rd gear, you will want to be in the 3000-3500 rpm range at least. there could be carbon deposits in the cylinder causing hot spots. Try treating with sea foam to blow the carbon out of it. (ingest the product with a warm engine and let it sit for a half hour to soak in, then drive the hell out of it.)

the calipers on the xt may need a shave to fit those brat wheels. salvage everything BRAT related, as the rest is mechanically identical to a wagon. what is brat specific is the door glass, the tailgate and bed trims, the tailgate itself, the 4wd step mount on the side, and interior pieces that are in good shape are always worth keeping. keep the taillights

If you are running just one pair of sow tires, they would be best on the front, since the driveline is based on FWD, and all your braking and steering is on the front. And also, they have traction if not in 4wd at the front. good lick with your car, and we would like to see what more you end up doing with it. pulling the motor is not terriby difficult. Chances are yhe rear main seal will not need replaced, and it is advised not to do so unless it is obviously leaking, or is cooked and hardened. They are particular to install, and a replacement seal is more likely to fail than the original one left alone. But if you do pull the engine, it would be a good idea to rebuild the cam towers and replace the o-ring. If you find yourself servicing the engine often, ditch the timing belt covers as they are more of a headache than useful.

anything being sucked up by the vac lines should burn in the intake. I could see it leaving a red residue in the intake tract, but not in the oil. I could see it mixing down in the PCV system, but outside the crankcase pcv system. maybe some of the cav lines are nor routed correctly. can you provide a picture of this red colored oil? what size tires does the car have. i would suggest replacing 175's with 185/70 if you have the smaller tire to help with fuel economy. the gearing is low on these, and it is common to have a 3500-4000rpm cruise at highway speeds. the engine can be efficient in higher rpms, being an oversquare bore and short stroke. you can probably bump the timing up a few degrees if you see mostly highway speeds. but mke sure the egr is working properly to keep cc temps down.

i only suggested that because i noticed an ej22 fwd has a stepped in flywheel, and a larger disc than an ea82 fwd. It would be col to know if that worked or not. especially if ea82 flywheels start to dry up.

which dipstick are you checking? the trans has 2 dipsticks, one for the diff(gear oil) and one for the ATF. I have heard of atf mixing with the gear oil, but there is no physical way the ATF would mix with the crankcase oil.