MilesFox

do you get any steering wheel shakes. If they get real bad it will pull on the steering wheel. The inner doj takes a little longer to act up. I would expect somesort of vibration or shimmy from a doj going out. Is the handling off, like steering more quickly one way than the other? wheel bearings are tricky to feel out until they are shot. by what method did you install the wheel bearing? Is the oot ripped on the axle?

so what did you do, put it in 4wd and drive it home? i once got an 88 dl for $150 over a stripped hub. it sat for 2 years, but i got it to start, put it in 4wd, and drive it over to my tow vehicle to transport it. Good score

I would have to see one. Not that i don't believe you, but i have never seen a reference to one. Does it have the gl-10 textured door panels and pillowy seats? suppose that would be the rarest subaru of all ea82's

i have had 40 subarus in the last 10 years, and yet i have never seen a gl-10 3 door. the only thing close is i saw a picture of a euro-spec 3door with a sunroof, which was never an option in the usdm are you sure this wasn't an xt. otherwise it would be an RX, with the diff lock, which was never a gl-10, or red for that matter. there were gl-10 xt's unless you are not in the USA where is 'falcon'?

it's a frameless door. maybe the window is not all the way up, or the rubber seal at the top has flattened out somewhat. my 94 legacy drips a lot when raining if i crack the window, as if the rain guard does nothing. and when it drips it drips on my elbow, or directly on the seat if im not in the car because the top of the window is about 2 inches inboard from the door panel itself.

hire a glass man on his own time. 300 bucks would reflect the shop provding the glass. the labor to install could be within 100 bucks. suppose you can knock out the old windshield yourself, and pay the glass man to clean up the surfaces and seal in the new windshield. an experienced glass man can do the job in 20 min

perhaps the other head gasket is bad. It is silly to only do one gasket if you have the intake off and the engine looking at you.

there is an oil pressure sending unit on the top of the block under the alternator that will sometimes leak. It leaks where the top terminal is crimped to the rest of the housing, but not the ftting where it connects to the engine.I would advise you check this as it is a common occurrence. IT is a 7 dollar part to replace.

build the spfi heads onto the mpfi non turbo block to get 9.5 compression. then you can use the spfi or a carb manifold with weber.

try and run it our of gas and see how much it takes then.

you want one form an 88 and up the 87 and 86 spfi have the round bplack plug. i suppose you could splice them, as i have had to do before.

judging by the compression numbers i would argue the cam timing is off. perhaps the tensioner is loose. you should go through the timing belt procedure and check all that before determining spark or fuel timing, especially since you have compression numbers to prove something is not normal. search this forum or the intenrnet for 'timing belt procedure' and you will find the write-up

There is a ground wire on one of the screws tha tholds the center console down. I would suspect a loose ground. there is also a similar ground at the steering column between the head of the column and the mounting bolts under the dash

soak, twist and pull. there is probably a buildup of rust paste making it hang on the end of the pin. dont be afraid to persuade it with a hammer. the pin itself will unscrew from the caliper bracket. i would suggest removing the caliper and bracket from the knuckle and taking it to a bench if you cannot get it apart as it is.

first problem bould be a sticky IAC, since it actuates from the sensors, but maybe it is slow resonding and stalls. worth a shot asgeneral maintenance to clean/seafoam it. 2nd problem sounds ground related. go over anywhere you have been in your car and had things apart, and make sure there is no small wire left ungrounded somewhore between screws. things tpically ground at their switches. you may need to hit the scematic for this one. inspect anywhre wire harnesses could have abraded against anything(in areas you have worked on the car)

Just recently a buddy had me help him do brakes on a late 90's saturn. of course he let it get down to the metal first. I BEAT AND BEAT the rotor with a 3 lb hammer to try to get it off. The rotor was taking dents and flaking away. It did not have the holes to pop it 0ff with a screw. I gave him a torch and some PB blaster and left him to it. It probably would have required an angle grinder and a cold chisel from there.

You can get one at u-haul. If you want to find a better price, take the part numbers that u-haul lists and use those numbers to shop else where, an the u-haul part number is the same as the mfg. part number. If i were to tell you to avod a brand, avoid the walmart-shelf REESE brad, ans those are the cheapest quality i have seen. You want a good Curt, Valley, or Cequent brankd hitch U-Haul is the world's largest retailer, so begin your search there(or their website) They may have the best wholesale price for the part. you will save money if you install it yourself(not terrobly difficult) go with the u-haul 13486 wiring plug or another 3-way converter made by HOPPY. what you will find for your car is hitches rating 2500-3500 lbs. If you can get one with a 2 inch receiver, it will be the most versatile as you can use the 2 inch for platfrom racks, bike carriers, etc. i am not familiar with the newest subarus, but there may be a plug that is there for a direct plugin pigtail(would cost the most)

check that the timing belt did not slip of break. if the passenger side breaks, the car will run in 2 cylinders. If the driver side breaks, it will not run at all. the belt can lose a tooth, and the timing and cam would be off.

with my experience, backfiring out the carb has been due to spark plug wires routed improperly. firing order is 1-3-2-4, counterclockwise. The #1 cylinder is the fornt on the passenger side and 3 behind it. Those cylinders fire almost simultaneously, and then the other side (2 and 4)

I found them at napa for 95. I got mine for 45 because i knew the counterman who ulled his employee discount. this would be a .99c or pocket item at a junkyard if you have a 17mm wrench handy. otherwise try some of the clearinghouse .com retailers

there used to be a member on this forum that went by the username 'lesbaru'. Subarus did sponsor some LGBT in the 90's so to some people the subaru is associated with being a lesbian's car in the same manner that the minivan was the 'soccer mom's' car, or dudes with large trucks had small pants

what i am saying is the 87 has the same style marker lite as 88 (flat grey plug) and up, but the connecotor on it is the same as the 85 and 86 (round black plug)

change that temp sensor. the car thiks its cold and making the mixture rich, and or holding the IAC open, acting like a vacuum leak. the tank is 15.9 gal. the lite comes on at about 2 and a half. if you fill up at the lite, you get about 12-14 gal out of the pump 4th gear on an uphill at 55-60 mph may be more efficieant than 5th gear, eing in the easier part of the power band rpm range.

1988 and up. 1987 if you swap the turn lenses, or at leas the bulb pigtails 85 and 86 will git, but diferent style, and different connector for the turn lites (but will plug into 87) this is true for all wagon, sedan, and 3door. for the rear bumper, you will need wagon only from 87 and up to bbe the same, although 85/86 bolts up, different style.

you have a 15.9 gallon tank. try replacing the engine temp sensor on the thermostat housing(green plug, 2 wires) maybe you are just calculating the mileage wrong. you can run the thing past the fuel gauge before it runs out of gas. maybe the gauge is inaccurate. Does the yellow lo fuel lite come on? fuel economy can be weird on these. my 88 dl got 23 on the hiway. my 86 brat got 18 mpg in town and 28 on the hiway. my 88 sedan would go 450 miles on the same tank of gas.\ 28 mpg at an average speed of 63 mph (2800 rpm)