MilesFox

the o rings will be the cam seal on one side, and the distributor block-off ont he back of the other head, 2 for the crossover pipe. usually the bottom end(conversion set) is sold separately(felpro) and that will have o rings for the dipstick, oil pump, and pickup tube

It may be more economical to find another used good trans. Or if you try to rebuld this one, good used parts (vs the cost of new) if you are proficiant with taking trans apart and back together, you could make custom transmissions with different gears and make your money that way. The front diff would have had to fail from some sort of neglect or lack of maintenance at one point in the car's life. I have never tried to disassemble a trans. I believe you take the tailhousing off first, then split the case. and the trans should be on one side so the parts don't fall out when you take off the other side.

I drove a FWD DL in a snow storm 150 miles and it did very well. I did not get stuck until i got to my destination and decided to hoon around and ran up on a snow bank. the local police were not entertained, but they loaned me a shovel to dig my way out and go on about myself. Mind you this car was a 3ay. but manually shifting it made for some outstanding driveability.(for a 3at)

I tried to do this with a ford explorer fuel filter under the car. I got the plastic insert tool, but i ended up breaking the fitting so i gave up the whole operation and just left it be. Subarus are more cooperative:)

here is the tire size calculator. Plug some math and see what you come up with. It would be interesting to see it work. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

I would have done it. But then agian i am experienced with these cars, and i have a spare motor:). But at least in your geography there is enough to pick and chose from. I would have taken the car as it would have been the only one ever available in my area. good luck with fnding the right soob. don't be discouraged:)

That four hours sounds like the labor for the turbo is involved. Suppose the technician can do it without pullng the turbo. I have done it. So what will happen is you will be paying 4 hours labor for about a half hour's work.

pull the fuse. if you crash, put the fuse back in and blame it on the abs. YOu are more likely to crash with the abs working than you are with the fuse pulled. (in slow speeds down hill, pulling out of the driveway, etc) just pull the fuse, its too simple and why be afraid of speculation) you either crash or you dont. maybe they will inspect the fuse for insurance if it is some high mortality fatal crash. but the abs wouldnt help you if you are driving in such a manner to cause such an event. One who worries more about the insurance finding out more than they do their own control of the car should not worry as much! and one more thing, If you can't STOP, then STEER!

Keep the car but find a different mechanic. A good mechanic would have fixed all these things at the same time. Why would he sell you a water ump a year after doing the timing belts when he should have done it then with the radiator so where you wont need toe work done now. 150,000 miles is considered low miles with the miles you can get out of the car. It is worth keeping. if the water pump is not leaking, ad the car does not overheat, it should last until 200,000 miles. You already had enough things fixed that there is nothing left to break. If you kept the car forever, and had regular maintnance like you have been, you can see over 300,000 miles easily. and the repair bills are still cheaper than monthly payments on a newer car that will still need work when it gets some miles. dont be afraid to get a basic tol set and take on some of the work yourself.

your car wouldhave originally had 3.70 gears if it is turbo. and if you are going up in gear(down in numbers) you will need to go with smaller tires to equal out. You will have to be really good at math and the tire size clculator to figure tht one out. I have thought of the idea, but never did the math. I dont do math.

Maybe the cap is not seated properly, or maybe the hole it sits in is slightly bent causing it to not seal. look for any dryrotted or cracked hoses. mae sure the radiator does not have any cracks or pinhole leaks. dont forget to tell us the year and model of your subaru!

forget the bedliner in a can and forget the 'rubberized or tarry stuff' if your purpose is to prevent rust. Bedliner on the outside for aesthetics would be ok, but if you want to stop rust or preserve your wheel arche. use a product called 'napa stone guard' I believe it's a 3m product, badged as napa, but it's good stuff. the rubberized stuff will wipe off with your finger after it dries. ot you get a tarry substance that is messy to work around. clean out the wheel arches very well, pull the font fenders, and go to town with this stuff. make sure to cover all the seam welds well. Treat any rust before applying to not have the metal rust out from behind.

Photo montage of 83 gl wagon set to funky music

I suppose you could hack a wiper control module found in the kick panel on soobs that are so equipped. A schematic would be your friend. You would have to invent a circuit for it, but i think it is doable.

cam and crank sensors. Water pump at 225,000 mi I had one where the trans got locked between gears (258,000 mi) the 95 and 96 are the best of the 2nd gen legacy.

I say you will be good to go. It is fairly simple. it would be a good learning experience. YOu can repair this engien for within $250 in parts. Not too bad considering you are getting the car for 400 bucks. others will tell you that the ea82t is a headache. others will tell you that you should swap an ej. I will tell you that a 400 dollar car is not that bad a deal to try and bring it back to life.

It is common knowledge that overextending the axles will will cause them to fail prematurely. Also Is this the complete lift kit, or just the strut spacers? you can get away with lifting the struts 2 inches, but you want to also lift the subframes as well. A properly spaced lift kit will keep the original suspension geometry intact. I would suspect you have only the strut spacers, being the cheaper option by whover installed it and sold you the car. This would not be a design failure rather than an incomplete lift(SJR supplies the whole lift kit, but can sell parts individually)

The pitch stopper acts as another engine mount. It is just there, no adjustment to it really, other than to make it fit where it is. although you can adjust it one way or the other for the sake of servicing(remoing the trans, etc)

You want to use a silicone grease like "sil-glyde" available at napa. Or the 99c packs thay sell you at autozone. I recommend this especially if you live in a winter road salt environment, heavy urban driving, or if the car sits for long periods between driving where time and age rack up faster than the miles.

It's a good idea to annually inspect the brake hardware and lubricate, even if the brakes are not due. Probably best every other oil change, or once before winter, and once after, twice anually. It's the kind of thing that letting it go too long will warrant total replacement becuse things become rusty and seized.

do a search for 'timing belt procedure" and double check the timing marks. maybe you should replace the coolant temp sensors ,as when it goes bad, the car is difficult to start when wam. if it is a start then die, and no start again till it sits situation, there is a transistor on the coil bracket that can fail. the coil itself almost never fails. the injectors would not dump excess fuel unless the car thinks its old when actually warm, check cts. the fuel pressure regulator is after the injectors. the fuel pump runs with the key in the start position, or when the car is running, or 2 seconds when the car is frst turned on.

Is this an automatic or a 5spd, as the 4wd mechanism in each is entirely different.

lets remember that our beloved ej22e (90-96) is a composite head gasket and is not prone to the same type of failures as the MLS gaskets in later model ej22 with the spark plugs in the valve covers. The argument between oem or aftermarket would have to be 2 different discussions with 2 different engines.

This is also what you do if you donot have the clutch alignment dowel. I like doing it this way. Sometimes it's a PITA to get the pilot hole to line up, and this is what makes it easier.

someone is going to tell you go oem or bust. I am fine with the felpro sets as i have always used them, beacause they were always available. the ej22 has a stretch bolt style torque sequence. you can get new bolts if it makes you feel better, but if you want to take it from me, it is not necessary. I have always gotten by without machining anything. I would think you only need machining if the motor was so hot that it stalled or seized while running. if its a mild overheat i wouln't worry about it