MilesFox

you should get a running ej22e for 300 bucks. For 1500 bucks you can get a whole driveable donor car.

Considering the high compression, the premium fuel resists predetonation. Otherwise, there is the risk of damage to the pistons. It will run on stock tune. The knock sensor can retard the timing to safe limits, but it will make the engine run doggy. You can try different combos of HG thickness. There are recommended gaskets for retrofit. An oem gasket will need a hole made for a water passage. There are aftermarket Cometic gaskets for the application. Not that regular fuel has more power density than premium fuel, it just lights off easier. With premium fuel and the frankemnmotor, what you are taking advantage of is the higher compression (fuel and air density) for a more explosive output (power) taking advantage of the whole timing curve with the knock sensor to keep detonation in check. If you are cheap like me, you use the 2 dollar octane boost to a tank of regular gas. There is more expertise to this (search) and others will chime in. I have built a frankemotor with cometic gaskets, but it failed a year later on regular gas and pinging blowing out a ring land. Maybe the HG was failing. I would have to take the pistons out to confirm. Also my motor was unknown miles and condition with rusty cylinder walls when built, and survived up until its last oil change adding a PTFE product, could be a variable. frankenmotor built frankenmotor failed, after having been swapped into forester

1. might be lucky and re-hang a belt. I had one with a skipped belt, and it survived. 2. The engine is an ej25d. The MT should not have an EGR if i am not mistaken. 3. You can swap on ej22e heads with single cam and belt, just carry everything over. use a 2.2 manifold Use 2.5 head gasket. This makes a high compression 'frankenmotor'. Run premium fuel. *SHOULD* be non-interference to swap head depending on the ej25d piston crown 4. An ej22e would drop in, plug and play with or without EGR As far as interference motors go, belt maintenance is key. The belt is more likely to fail from a seized idler bearing or water pump or the bearings failing allowing the pulleys to walk, before the belt itself would fail. There are more details to these combinations, but in general, yes, you can hybrid parts, and yes, you can swap in a 2.2 non interference. Stay within phase 1 engines for compatibility.

Timing belts like have been done, but question the quality of prior work. There is evidence of the crank and timing covers being off, especially the woodruff key. I could swap on a generic oil filter and see what happens.

Mobil1 filter made by Champion labs: http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2466063 opinions of m1 filter: http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2361229 youtube review: comparing brands to application vs oem http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/mobil-one-oil-filters-11346/

possible stuck caliper slides from age and road salts and if the calipers and brackets havent been aprt yet. It would be wise to clean and lube the slides and the shims.

Oil viscosity is something to consider. Although the cap may call for 5w30, you should use a 10w30 or 10w40 oil for summer temps, or at a 5w40 for all season temps. 5w30 really should only be used in winter temps. Typical for bottom end failure is if the engine has been overheated on more than one occasion, or grossly overheated, say, if there was a HG failure before, or the HG is failing allowing coolant to escape and overheat from an air pocket in the cooling system.

Thanks for your input. I just wanted to confirm my suspicions with a 2nd opinion. I have not yet encountered an ej22 with oil pump issues although i have read about it being a potential issue, and the recommendations to loc-tite the screws any time an oil pump is serviced

I am suspecting the oil pump itself may be losing prime after an overnite sit. Can anyone confirm which engines or year of engine are prone to loose oil pump screws? The PO had amsoil in the sump before i changed it. The current oil is still clean looking after 3000 mi. The mobil 1 filter is good for up to 15,000 mi according to their claims. I do not know if any of the oil pan or gasket have been serviced in this car. I doubt my issue is the filter, but if i do change it, i will move it to the mobil 1 104 filter as it should have for n/a application I suppose i will top off with ATF a few miles before i change the oil. I would be wise to service the oil pump; i just wanted 2nd opinions about that if it should be necessary or not. I do need to remove the timing covers and inspect the belt. Also, the woodruff key on the crank pulley is worn and the pulley has a slight wobble.

I can get 2 sized of oil filter for the engine, mobil 1 104 and 108. the corss references defaul to the 108, (the smalle one) as the smaller honeyell ones from the dealer supersede the older made in japan units to fit on later turbo engines. I do have the smalller filter on this one, but want to move to the larger one as i have cross referenced the large on on my 98 LOB ej25d. I have no doubts about the filter itself. The PO claimed the car burns oil before i bought it, and i replaced the PCV and it seems to do ok. But i do not know if or how many times the car has been run out of oil.

1996 impreza sport, 187,000 mi When i start the car, you can hear a bottom end rattle for the first 2 seconds and then it goes away. I am wondering if i should consider rebuilding the oil pump. Could this be a drainback issue? The engine has a mobil 1 filter and high mileage 10w30. I am looking to move to 0w40 or 5w40 for the next oil change. The engine rund great, but will blow some oil smell on startup. The engine doesn't seem to consume much oil since i have replaced the PCV, less than a quart in over 3000 mi

Must have extra-s. Not because synthetic, but because of the "s" I have been there with mine, and i work in an oil shop. The gl-5 spec is for the front diff in the trans, helical pinion gear, but the 's' properties are necessary for the synchros. My sticky trans freed up after 100 mi of driving once i realized this. I would imagine the honda specific MT fluids would work, assuming the viscosity is correct, and minus the gl-5 rating. I had to go to the dealer to get extra s about 10 bucks a qt after the first dealer had no idea what i was asking for (and uses bulk gear oil in the service bay!)

Well if you take the trans apart, do a write up on it. As for a write up to exist, someone would have had to take the time to post it to the internet.

In the case with most late model vehicles, it is generally recommended to leave the factory fill oil until the oil change reminder lights come on. Personally, i would give it 5000 mi before changing it. Otherwise, if you change it for the sake of a road trip. you should consider 0w40. Do this if you find that the engine consumes a quart between oil changes with 0w20 or 0w30. Good luck

That high mileage ej22 will likely continue more miles than the your other ej25d in original condition.

The last handful of soobs i have had have more miles. What you should be afraid of is not an engine with over 100,000 mi, but instead one that has not been serviced for over 100,000 mi. What this means is if the engine is not broken, it is still good. And to keep it good, keep oil and coolant in it. I'm sure4 with that mileage, it has already had some seals and timing belts done on it. The wrx driveline should have the smae final drive as the ej22, just closer gear ratios. I was at a subaru show and there was a 96 legacy with 334,000 mi. You can count on another 100,000 mi with this car. IF it fails, you have spare engines. Assuming you are mechanically savvy, you can't go wrong with a car that comes with a spare motor. Or take the motor out of your low mile rig. If you are incapable of such swappage, you should nto be considering a project car. But alas, here is the forum, now go get a handful of tools and you will be golden.

Do not flat tow an automatic as it will burn up the trans. This should only be done if the engine is running! Otherwise, 2 up is fine, just leave it in FWD. IT is not necessary to remove the driveshaft. Only tow the Automatic if you have a 2 up dolly. Otherwise, the 4spd brat is safe to flat tow. Just leave it in FWD and neutral. OR you can dolly it, depending on your towing equipment. the all 4 down or all 4 up rule only applies to full time 4wd and and AWD manual trans. Otherwise, a 'full time' or AWD 4spd automatic should be towed all 4 up, or 2 up and the driveshaft removed. (I know this is an old post resurrected from the dead, but what the heck, it adds to discussion since the SEARCH function will dig it up.)

Here are some good reads to get used to subaru engine nomencalture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Forester According to these articles, your car should have the EJ255 assuming the foresterx for 2009 is turbo, vs the forester XT. I didn't see anything relative to the forester 2.5x trim in these articles. PErhaps the vin tag on the driver side strut tower may give a clue. Good luck.

Consider 0w40 oil after the warranty

well, if an ea82 5mt starter from an 87 gl, fits a 96 impreza with a 4eat, then it will work.

Check the fusuble links under the hood in the little black box by the battery cable. There should be 4 links, 1 black (main) and 2 green, and a red. see if one is broken or missing. A modern 'J-fuse' can be substituted as a replacement

This last week i did this: Replaced the starter in a 96 impreza outback 4eat with one from an 87 gl ea82 5m Washed my woodie wagon for the 3rd time in the car wash and the contac paper wood survives yet. Aside from that, i helped replace the track in the car wash at the oil change facility i work at. I re-did parts of my wood grain where the edges were compromised by waxing the car 3 coats. I got the 3door out once agian to polish it up for an upcoming show, and am swapping outback wheels onto it so all of them match.

The ignition relay controls the on position of the key, but not the starter. The click you hear is the fuel pump relay as it primes while on, and engages while cranking. The problem is likely the starter plunger contacts itself, or the ign switch behind the key cylinder. try these: start in neutral, if it goes, suspect park switch. Jump the sarter from the small tab on the starter to the battery, if she goes, suspect the key switch. If no go, suspect the starter itself. But since you asked, the fuel pump and ign relays are located on a bracket above the steering column above the ECU. Good luck

What i meant. Thanks for the clarification. Might i add it is ok to mount one odd size tire(spare) as the differentials are open. In the case of a flat tire in the front, it is best to move one of the back tires to the front, and put the spare on the back. Pref. the passenger rear. You can technically run 2 odd pairs of tires, but only diagonal or on the same side of the car, but never FF, RR as it will bind the AWD

Better it drains out than soak your carpet. This is normal operation for a working AC