MilesFox

just one dipstick and drain plug.

Might as well grab the intake with all the sensors still on it. This is less work. The complete unit would be worth selling to someone doing an EJ swap for obd2 on a first gen engine. Tou can take it off in one piece and carry it with out. get the maf and the plumbing. I agree with taking the exhaust pipe header that contains the cats back to the midpipe flange. This is valuable for a swap, or for scrap as the cats are worht weight in rare metals. But the real value is you cannot buy one out of a junk yard (legally), and having a known good one is worth having as spare parts for the price (free)

disty, dizzy: these are shorthand slang terms for distributor. Easier to type:burnout:

fuel pressure regulator? The regulator is located aftehr the injectors on the return side. Try a fuel pressure test aft ehr the regulator and see what you get. Inspect the vacuum lines to it. The fuel pump runs from a signal put out by the disty when the car is running, or with the key turned. Make sure the green connectors in the trunk near the ecu are not connected. These are to remain disconnected during operation, and are for code diagnostics. The fuel pump relay is located near the ecu. Check the little nugget inside the top of the disty cap.

sounds like the typical problem you would have to use a push button for. try jumping the wire from the small tab on the starter to the battery to make sure it works. If you drop the kick panel, you can find the wire to the ignition switch, and get a used ign switch from an ea81-ea82-legacy and just plug it in. If it starts on the first try, then the switch could be going bad. my 94 legacy does this where i get a click, but no turn, and if i rattle the key a few times, she will catch.

IF the ring was broken, and if the joint inside had come out past the cup into the boot, then yes, this very well may be your problem. Make sure the shaft is not spinning and that it is engaged with the outer end. If the outer end had popped out, you can line up the splines and hit the other end of the shaft with a mallet to pop it in before installing the doj cup. The ring may be included with an axle boot kit, but it may not be as well. You could probably find one if you know your part numbers. There are a few different styles of axle cups, so you will want to go by fwd, 4wd, turbo or non, 3at or 4eat, any combination of that, to find the right one versus year or model. There are bands on the outer end of the axle shaft that will identify a fwd, 4wd, or turbo axle. There is a 23 spline axle cup, and a 25 spline axle cup. overall, there are 2 if not 3 sizes of axle cups across about 20 years of manufacture

It would help visibility if the car was parked, or disabled off the side of the road. Disabled cars on the interstate at night are almost invisible until you are passing it if there are no lights on. This would be deadly for anyone who dared pass on the shoulder. The reflectors are much safer for running out of gas or having a flat tire. I have put them inside the door sills to show that the door is open at night. Having the lights on does better as some cars will blend in with the sky on overcast days, depending on its color. You could make the car look obnoxious enough...

take the front fenders if there is no rust. save the grille, lights. keep the projector fog lamps if it has them. grab some bits off the motor such as the MAF, cam and crank sensors, the radiator also, take the cup holder and the heater selection console, as a lot of times those become sticky or the light burns out. the rear wiper motor might be worth grabbing, and also the tailgate latch handle which tends to rust up and people want a replacement. the ecu under the carpet on the passenger front footwell may be worth grabbing for those doing swaps

The last car i had (95 tercel) was titled as a salvage car. it was sold to me this way. I registered it in my name, but shortly junked afterward. The plates left over from this car are now on an 86 gl wagon.

This car would not require inspection in WI unless it was 1996 or newer, and if so, only in a handful of counties. Bring that PA title or bill of sale to WI and it's good for a WI title. I had a car that came from NH. They didnt require a title for cars more than 15 years old. I could have gotten a WI title for it if i had the original NH registration withthe bill of sale. But i could not get ahold of the guy i got it from for the reg. so, i swapped the vin plate and assumed it as a car i already junked. I drove it like this for e few years, sold it, it got sold again, and the last owner gave it back to me to swap parts into another car. and then i junked it. WI is probably the easiest state to hafe and drive a car in. too bad it wasn't the same for motorcycles, though.

this is not the sensor for the gauge, but the sensor for the ecu. if it is out of whack, the engine could run too rich, or too lean, or cause the idle air control valve to remain open or shut. the one for the gauge has a single spade terminal. the one for the ecu has a brown connector shaped like the ones on the injectors. the turbo engines are also finicky with the throttle position sensor. the contacts inside become corroded. you could try to remove the cover and clean the contacts. make sure you marrk the orientation of the sensor before you remove it. It can be dialed in with a multi-meter and range specs. also, check the contacts for corrosion where they plug into the sensors. Sometimes cleaning the contacts will improve considerably.

the shift knob is removed by driving out some roll pins. you can take up the center console cover plate to access the wire. I once had a pushbutton wagon, which i swapped an rx trans into, and use the regular shift knob. I left the orignal knob on the floor under the seat, still plugged in, to operate the diff lock, since it is the same mechanism between a diff lock trans and a pushbutton 4wd trans. as far as how the switch works, think of 2 switches side by side, one is off, one is on, pointing the same way, when you flip it the other way, the one that was on is now off, and the one that was off is now on. it is what would be called a double post double throw switch , or dp/dt in electrical terms

Please Read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108259&highlight=felpro

does the car run great until it warms up? and then it is hard to start or runs crappy? try checking out the engine temp sensor located on the back of the intake near the turbo. This is likely your culprit.

IF the threaded inserts are just spinning, you should be able top pop the covers off with a flat screwdriver while turning the bolt. Put your 22mm socket on a breaker bar, on the pulley nut, and butt it against the battery side of the car. bump the starter, and this will break it loose for you. Putting it back on with enough torque will be the tricky part. put the car in a higher gear with the parking brake on to tighten it. you will be torquing all the slack of the driveline out before the bolt itself torques on. so you will need a good half circle of movement to do it this way, orient your tool so you can get it tight!

with your method, it is likely the outer end came separated. the 'cup' i referred to is the DOJ (double offset join" with the 'cup. being the part that contains the joint-the part that slides onto the tranny stub with the roll pin. if the outer end did come separated, you should be able top pop it back together. You may have to remove the axle first. If you pullt he axle again, remove the inner side first, after popping the ball joint, and use a block of wood on the shaft of the axle to drive it through the knuckle.

It's a ganged switch, with one switch on and the other switch off in any configuration. if you had a diff lock, it would operate that with the same solenoids. it would work for a pair of light sets where one light would turn off while the other set is on, say, between fog lights and flood lights. you would probably have to hybrid the shifter, using the pushbutton's lever with the dual ranges mounting to be a good fit.

which is improved by following the manual. less load on rods and bearings, more ifficiant with combustion and breathing. cruising or shifting below 1500 rpms is murder on the engine. I routinely find that i get better economy at 75 mph vs 65 mph, because the rpm it cruises in is more efficent power.

If i was unlimited to a build, this is what i would go with based on what i got. 1986 gl wagon, dual range i would add a 3 inch lift, and tall, narrow army jeep type tires on 14 inch steel. I would take the hoards of road signs i have and build skidplates to prevent being hung up on snow drifts. We had the blizzard last year, and the only thing that would stop my soob were the 4 ft snow drifts that had accumulated in the alley. otherwise, i keep a shove, a tow strap, and some salt on board. And WOOL gloves. gloves get wet while digging, but wool stays warm, and dries out quickly. The defrost would dry them out in just a few minutes. This is how i would be outfitted for urban snowstorm duty.

23 splines is for a 3spd at. The 5mt and the 4eat 'full time' trans has a 25 splines. the xt6 axle is different, but the cups do swap, if the axle you got is indeed for a 3at (it would have 3 bands on the outer end of the shaft) The axle IS the same for 4 cylinder xt's with full time or 5spd turbo.

I would suppose keep the cams together. Minly, because you can remove and install the heads without removing the cams. This is a relief to anyone who has done millions of ea82's! I doubt the cams would be affected as much from overheats, being they are farthest from the source of heat, and are made of harder metals.

How did you go about getting the axle out of the hub? typically we use a press, or a block of wood to drive it out. I could imagine you pulled the knuckle off the axle, which may have pulled the inner part of the axle cup apart. it is more likely that the outer end separated. see if the axle shaft is spinning with the 'cup" the outer end of the axle can be pulled apart as it is held on with a circlip. The inner end has to be disassembled to pull apart, as it is secured with a snap ring. It would take more force to break the snap ring than it would to pop off a circlip.

too rear heavy, withthe car loaded backwards. This leads to trailer sway. Do not load cars backwards on a trailer, unless you can do so with at least 60% of the load ahead of the axle onto the hitch. Trailer sway is almost un-correctable, unless you are that good that you can accelerate and brake alternately with the oscillation of the trailer to bring it under control, while slowing down, which the slowing down part makes it almost impossible.

1. oxygen sensor 2. the broken off working end of the clutch cable

You can build one of these 85-94 subarus in any configuration you can think of, as all of any of these parts would bolt up the same, using the right combination of unmodified factory parts.