MilesFox

take them off completely. The valve cover seal lines up the the dot on the cam

mysterious parking lamp switch that no one ever sees. It exists to run the parking lights without the key on. Everyone does it. Mow, if you marker lies are flashing and wont let you start the car, there is a reset switch near the hood lever(if you have alarm) mystery switches!

235 thousand miles is normal for a subaru to last that long. Using the oil is going to be due to cam seals and other seals leaking, especially the breather plate on the back of the crankcase. you can go ahead and plan or a bottom end rebuild, buy tou wil be disappointed to see the cylinders still have crosshatches in their bores. The bottom ends just don't wear out on these engines. do the engine seals and get another 100,000 or more miles. The obove opinions may be expected of something that is NOT a subaru, but 'conventional' wisdom seldom applies the same way to soobs.

I attended the 2009 event in loisiana at no problems raceway. this was coordinated with the BABE rally(streetsafari.com), where they pitted the BABE cars vs the lemons cars on the drag strip. I ran a 78 toyota campwer. There was a scooter there that the crowd wanted to see vs the camper, but that never happened. I got my picture on jalopnik for being there, living ot of my camper like white trash just being there. There is an event a joliet park ilinois. I did not go, but would go. We have discussed among ourselves participating in an event. http://jalopnik.com/5290384/break-out-the-calendars-lemons-versus-babe-rally-cars-at-the-dragstrip

Your diagnosis and hypothesis seems correct. I had one like this, but it had a blown GH, discovered after repairing thebelt and WP to make it run. You shound like you are in good shape with just a new WP and timing belt. The rubber gasket on the thermostat mey be shot, it is possible that an old timer may have remvoed it, casing a leak. It could be seized and not opening, and this is tricky to get a subaru to do when adding coolant. I say go on and replace the WP and TB. I suggest taking a goold look at the idlers, and replace them if needed. Take the option of doing the am or crank seal while in there. The crank seal is part of the oil pump housing, and comes with an oil pump seal kit. Do this, and run the motor. If its good then you are fixed. Otherwise, if it need HG, you got your work cut out for you, but only half of it.

sweet work on the exhaust. I find the collector piece you made interesting. this gives me some ides as i had to cobble up exhausts. I learned something form your example! I would like to make a true dual exhaust for an ej swap ea82.

but half a ton less than current models. I think the heaviest ea82 gl10 wagon with 4eat and air struts still weighs in at some 2700 lbs. The 3door coupe i would estimate at 2300 lbs or less. I should take it to the scrapyard to junk 20 lbs of metal, and i will get a wight in 20lb increments

Yu should be able to unthread the whole stud, if you have too. If the nut is turning, it can come off. If not, and no budge, try a larger tool. I have good luck with a 6 in extension, ratchet, and 3 ton jack handle section for a cheater bar. !/2" dr is best, but it should come out before breaking a 3/8 tool It is possible that the stud can pull out some of the thread, but not as likeley as unlikely. I always recommend new studs anyway for any that the nut takes out the stud with.The idea is not so uch torque on the threads, but the stretch of the stud by the torque on the nut. IF you booger it, you can still helicoil.

I would swap that tribeca into 86 gl or first gen legacy/impreza

A mechanic that is proficient will profit based on the book time. I could see 3 hours with complete removl and replacement, given the time to break everything down, lift, jacks, etc. What is the hourly rate? 2 hours seems more likely if everything comes part all at once, by someone that does this for fun.

the speaker is going to ground thru the negative wire back to the headunit. If hte dpeakers have a body ground, you will have to jump a wire from the - terminal on the speaker to the screws thru the body. the speaker does not ground thru the mounting screws. I thought you were posting about the ea82, with a chassis ground for the speakers. I would have to see a legacy stereo schematic to tell if it shares ground with front/front, rear/rear You may bea bel to retrofit a noise capacitor from an ea82. Is it alternator whine?

how are your speaker s grounded? do you have the little noise reducer off the coil present? didi you connect the speakers to common ground, or run individual wire? you can ground the headunit through the antenna.

Do a good job on the HG and replace all the hoses, and it will do good. These opinions are garnered from the lack of upgradability of this particular engine, but in stock form, it does the job relaiably(with proper maintenance{cooling system}). Although the design of the heads is the most limiting factor for upgradability.

non interference, don't worry. Just align all the sprockets and install a belt.

I would suggest TPS issues as this is common with ea82t, at least with my experience with them. You can crack the casing and clean the contacts, and lube with dielectric grease. See what happens if you unplug either the TPS, or even the CTS

Also, the coolant temp sensor (CTS) will ditate the function of the IAC. Sometimes the older soobs need one after a while. Try wiggling the connecotor or cleanining it with a electrical contact cleaning spray. IT will be located behind the intake on the passenger side, with a reddish-brown plug. It is easy to change being the last on the list of what has already been tuned up.

heat, plenty of penetrant, and SLOWWWWWWWW even torque with a long bar. Do not twist the bolt faster than it can turn. Rust is a M*F. Be prepared to pull the whole knuckle. IF the bolt breaks, you can be successful with a drill and a bench vise. Be sure to clean allt he rust out of the socket, and use plenty of anti-seize or use a pickle fork if not replacing it. If the bolt is turning, work it back and forth to run the rust off the threads. Usually bolts will break off at the point where the exposed threads make it into the bore threads, and stop up the whole works.

That is a lotta work..... but easier than cutting and patching rust, paint, body, etc.

It can become a chore selling a one-off car to someone that can appreciate it. Someone can have mney, buy supposed one off car, but in the end it is disposable, because it is cheaper and older than a new car. At least now the car passes into the hands of someone who can keep it's glory

provided you squeeze down the tensioner first.... a new one will come pre-loaded with a pin to pull after installation

I was referring to the heater resistors. If you can get the fan to work on 1,2,3, then that is good. the fan switch itself must be screwy. If you pull the lnob, there are 2 screws. You can replaec it by removing the bezel. once agian, be sure to remove the 2 screws on the heater selector first, before removing the bezel.

could be the fan switch itself. I have had a few you need to push or wiggle it to work on 4 If it is only working on 4, 1-3 are controlled by a resistor coil. This is located under the glovebox, 2 screws and a white lug. All the eaves and crap may have ruined it. Also, the cold can break. I would lean towards the fan switch itself.

I have a usable xt6 radiator from an 89 with mt. It's a little corroded, but it holds coolant. The tanks are good if you were doing that, or run it as it is.

I would suggest cam tower o-rings if the leak is profuse, and starving the upper valve train.

during 4wd, one solenoid is on, and the other one is off. When 2wd, the solenoids switch roles, so the one turns off, and the other one turns on.