MilesFox

the axle stub (once the brake drum is off) can come off withthe axle. IT is common for the axle to seize to the splined stub, especially in the rust belt. Otherwise, heat it with a torch and soak it with PB blaster, and sweat the moisture out of it. It may need to soak in PB overnite or for a few days. I have resorted to dropping the whole rear sub-asselmbly just so i could swing a 3 lb hammer to get things apart.

the hub is contained within the trailing ar. Undo the pivot bolt where it connects to the tube fram, and then the single pivot at the trailing link, or the 3 bolts that hld the link to the trailing arm. The brake backing plate is held on by 3 bolts total. so there are 4 points to disconnect: inner pivot bolt, shock mount, axle pin, and trailing link pivot at the tube or at the 3 bolts on the side. Good luck

They can fit, but if you are going for it, get both sides and all the hardware. The pivot bolt is lager, for which you will have to drill out the mount on the tube frame in the 83. Otherwise, all the brake hardware and spindle/bearings will interchange.

A/C drain for water drip for condensation

You will find that the owners manual, and service shop tech sheets will show the following oil types for for subaru engines for different tepmerature ranges for eall EJ and prior engines: 5w30, 10w30, 10w40, 30, 40, 50, 15w40, 20w50. And with synthetic fluids, the following can be substituted: 0w30 for 5w30 (not recommended for prolonged high speed operation, turbo), 0w40 or 5w40 for 15w40. For 5w30, my opinion is that it is only appropriate for winter temps below 50 degrees F 20 wt oil has never been listed with subarus, except for late model FA engines calling for 0w20 and 0w30 (for emissions and fuel economy standards) although in my personal opinion, these weights should not be used above winter time temps, and that only 0w40 would be an appropriate substitute over the factory installed oil for 2012 and later subaru for all temps

Since i am here, i will lend you my expertise with both subaru and working at an oil change facility. I will compare what is recommended, and suggest my personal preference for brands/fluid types, which are suitable for all season and temperarure ranges for a northern temperate climate that sees from -20 degrees to 100 degrees F: Front and rear differentials: Front 1.2 qts, rear .80 qts; 80w90 conventional or 75w90 synthetic, API GL-5 for helical or pinion gear. I use Mobil1 75w90 brand fluid, $10 per quart, 2 quarts services both diffs. Service schedule every 30,000 mi for everyday use, 15,000 mi for heavy use, off road, mud and water, etc Automatic trans service from 30,000 to 60,000 mi, or 15,000 for extreme use such as towing or off road duty. If i am not mistaken, the 4eat fro 2009 uses dextronII/III spec fluid, conventional or synthetic. If in doubt, use a milti-vehicke ATF such as Valvoline Max Life ATF, Cam 2 Multi-vehicle ATF. I am running the cam2 in my 98 legacy outback. Where i work, retail price is $119.99 for the Cam2 synthetic milti-ATF, or 89.99 for a conventional dextron II/III with an optional additive to bring the conventional ATF to chrysler atf+4 (mitsubishi), Mercon V or LV, (ford) or Dextron VI (GM). Dextron 6 is backwards compatible, so any modern-spec ATF will work in the subaru. For th e coolant, service the factory fill after 5 years or 50,000 mi, Definitely at 100,000 mi along withthe timing belt and water pump. Maintaining the coolant system in the subaru is of utmost importance to avoid potential head gasket issues. It is best to use the Subaru brand coolant and the coolant conditioner. If using a generic fluid, use the green stuff, silicate free, and not the orange 'long life' coolant. A product like blue devil or k-seal can be substituted for the subaru coolant conditioner. For the green coolant, service every 24 months or 30,000 mi. The purpose for replacing the coolant is to replace the anti corrosive properties, as there are sacrificial elements dissolved into the fluid that wear away, much like a zinc rod in a hot water heater, if you understand galvanic corrosion or electrolysis, as dissimilar metals in a fluid(electrolite) will act as a cathode and an anode. I am running the straight green stuff. Since my engine (ej25d) is historically known for premature HG failure, i may consider the k-seal product as a preemptive measure. Usually pattern HG failures occur from between 125,000 and 150,000 mi. Mine has 133,000 on the odo. For oil, change the oil from 3500 mi to 7500 mi, depending on conventional or synthetic oil. All oil must meet current standards such As global standard ISLAC GF-5 and American standard API SM, SN. A little known secret is that 'premium conventional' oil is technically a semi-syn and has a service life of up to 5,000 mi. My preference is a name brand oil such as Mobil 5000, Mobil Super High Mileage, or Mobil1. For oil weight and viscosity, the engine is installed with 5w30 from the factory. For summer temps above 50 deg F, a 10w30 oil is more appropriate. Same for prolonged highway or high RPM operation. "5w30 is not recommended for prolonged (sustained) high speed operation" according to subaru owners manual in regards to turbo since 1983. A 10w40 oil is appropriate for summer temps if the engine is consuming a quart between oil changes. 5w40 is also appropriate, as well as for winter. With a full synthetic oil, 0w40 is a wise choice as it flows best for cold starts and winter, but also is 40 wt for summer temps and high speed operation. For a conventional, 10w30 or 40, for synth blend, 5w40, for full syn, 5w40 0r 0w40. Examples of brands are Shell rotella t6 5w40, Mobil1 TDT 5w40, and Mobil1 European formula 0w40. I use the mobil1 ow40 and mobil high mile 1030 or 10w40. The proper weight is more important than which brand. If you do your searching , you will see a lot of argument for mobil vs rotella, but the argument really is about 5w30 vs 5 or 15w40. And for the record, Mobil1 is a group 4 synthetic ester, so if you read anything about mobil 1 not being a true synthetic or group 3 paraffin oil, they are mistaking for mobil super synthetic, which is a different line than mobil1 (my oil shop carries mobil) With extended oil change, or any weight or brand of oil, in general, with any vehicle, it is wise to check the oil level as often as you fuel up. Subarus can and use oil. Causes for consumption can be from high mileage on the engine, failed or clogged PCV system, or too light of an oil grade. Ypu should expect to add a quart every 2-3,000 mi whether the engine is using oil or not. The 40 wt oil should do better with consumption. Consumption can vary depending on driving dynamic. For example, a 98 forester, can drive 2500 mi out of state and back, and not use a drop of oil, but the same car withthe same oil (5w30) can use a quart in 2 weeks of city driving. Just make a habit of checking the oil level often and you will be alraight regardless of oil weight or brand. Keep the tires inflated to even pressure. Check and add air while tires are cold. Ths door sill may suggest some 28 lbs of pressure, but this is best for off road or snow footprint, but for street and highway driving, 35-40 lbs will lend to better fuel economy and tread wear. It is important that all 4 wheels be within 1/4 inch diameter of eachother to keep the AWD happy. Rotate the tires from 6-8000 mi, or every other oil change. Rotation should follow a FWD/AWD pattern rather than a 4WD/RWD pattern. Baxk tires move to front, front tires criss corss to the rear. After every other tire rotation, all 4 wheels will hve had the chance to wear from eaithe direction, from either side, to promote even tread wear. Without regular rotations, you will find the front tires wear much sooner than the rear, and the front tires will tend to wear the outer edges of the tires. Hence the need to rotate them often. Air filter mileage can vary depending on driving environment. 15,000 mi for dusty conditions, 30,000 mi for ideal conditions. In the oil change industry, on average with average vehicles, i see filter replacements about 20-25,000 mi for mixed urban driving. If you are inspecting and replacing the filter yourself, you will want to see light shine thru the filter pleats. Once you can only see light at the edge of the pleats, it is time to replace it. It is ok to have a little bit of sand or dust bunnies between the pleats as long as light can shine thru. Inspect the brakes at each tire rotation. To avoild complications with calipers, disassemble and clean the brakes and grease the slide pins once or twice a year. Ideally, once before winter, and once after winter, especially if your area uses road salts to melt ice. Here in wisconsin, if you just let the brakes go intil the pads are down to the metal, you can count on seized caliper slides before, or a stuck piston after replacing the pads. Another thing to consider, although you haven't asked, is to prevent rust. Common rusty spots are the rear wheel arches where the bumper meets, as there are plastic tabs that secure the bumper, and rust will begin there. Same withthe bottom of the wheel arch where it meets the rocker sill. This is because dirt and debris will accumulate and trap moisture, promoting rust, especially when road salts are applied in winter. Keep this are a clean and be sure to wash it out with a sprayer or by hand with a rag when washing the car. You can pull out the rubber stone guard strip to clean and wax this area when you wash the car. Another rust place is the front fenders behind the mud flaps. Dirt and leaves will accumulate there from within the wheel arches, and from the wiper cowl. Durt will pack in and trap moisture causing rust from inside out, behind the paint. It wouldn't hurt to take out the bolt to gain access and clean behind there, and replace the bolts with stainless steel. When using a sprayer or hose, open the door and blast it behind the fender between the door hinges. By hand, you may be able to pull down the plastic fender liner and rinse it from behind. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty on the car. Although subarus are particular about maintenance, they are wonderfully easy to service. You should have no qualms about dong a routine service like replacing a starter or alternator with no mechanical background and basic hand tools. You have this forum, so $100 bucks in tools can save you more money for less than the cost of one hour of dealer labor rate.

The fel pro kits can be a mixed bag, sourced from mexico and japan depending on the part. My experience, shopping at NAPA, the 'altrom' brand will supply an OEM mfg'd part 'made in japan'. Pay the extra for the middle or premium price for the best quality part if the price is less than the dealer for the same part.

common convention would have you do both head gaskets even if only one has failed. The timing belt idlers should be sealed units pre greased. I have gotten away with not resurfacing the heads. A razor blade and wd40 does a good job at removing the gasket material. and a scotch brite pad does well to remove carbon. unless the engine got hot enough to boil the oil, it should be ok. The 2.2 does fare better than 2.5 with overheats. Sounds like you caught the head gasket before the engine has had a chance to cook itself. A temp spike is one thing, vs running the engine so hot it stalls out.

There is a microswitch built into the odometer, which trips the EGR lite every 30 or 60,000 mi, as a service reminder to have the EGR inspected. It is only tripped by mileage, does not indicate a problem.

For you rust-belt subaru, inspect for rusty lines or leaks in these locations: Anywhere the brake lines clip to the body Where the brake line comes thru from inside the body, under the back seat, and down under the car behind the floorpan. There is also a proportioning valve here. Expect your leak to be in this area. Expect to replace lines as they will break when trying to do them. Use a flat jaw vise grip if your tool rounds them off. ^ This area is forward of the gas tank. None of the lines run above the tank, but rather along the inside of the frame adjacent to the gas tank. IF you have your doubts, bypass all new line with union fittings to get your length. IF the line is rusted at the grommet thru the body, you may be in for a compression fitting or making a flare, as these lines run thru the rocker sill and thru the firewall and will be impossible to replace with a continuous line unless you feel like taking the interior and dashboard out.

For the trans service, a 3x drain and fill is the method for do-it-yourself. But if using a professional service, a machine is far more efficient, such as a machine that acts as a fluid reservoior to exchange the fluid. Where i work at, we use a t-tech machine. It is not a power flush or back flush. It is a 'fluid exchange' that moves 18 qts of ATF thru as the engine runs. BTW the power steering fluid uses dextron type II/III fluid, be sure not tu use the clear stuff meant for GM vehicles. Congratulations, and expect to get bombarded with advice.

Make sure to burnish the pads in by cramming up the brake from 30 or 40 mph both forwards and back before riding them too long, as not to glaze the pads and rotors. Don't be afraid to lock em up. Avoid babying the brakes for the first few miles.

So the left rear strut blew out and puked oil everywhere. Now, before i heat the seach button, off hand, i can't remember if the spring or the strut is different between forester. I would like to go for the taller option when replacing it.

For late model subarus with 0w30 and 0w20 oil and consumption issues, remind the consumer to check the oil often, and consider 0w40 oil

Come to think of it, my ej swapped 3door with RX trans has a bullnose starter. I did have to space some washers for engagement, but because EJ swap

You can fit an ea82 without much trouble. Swap the bellhousing pitch bar mount from the ea81. Ise the ea82 upper radiator hose. You can fit an ea82 radiator. IF its a manual trans, the hill holder may be a tight fit causing you to relocate it. The dsty will be a tight fit also. It's easiest to install the engine, and then the distributor after its bolted up. You may have to cut a tab off the disrt and clock it a few degrees to clear. The ea82 can be good as long as it's not trashed to begin with. Keep it in stock trim and don't boost it beyond stock. There may be clarance issue with the timing belt covers, but only if lifted. Don't be afraid to ditch the covers as the timing belts are easy to service without them, and the engine is non-interference. In my opinion, an ea82 is best when using an ea82 trans for proper gearing

you can pack grease in it by hand to get by until you can repair it properly. It only fails after the grease gets out or water or sand gets in. pack some grease in it once a week and you will be fine. You might get some on the cats which will burn and stink. use a sheet metal screw and a piece of aluminum to fab a heat shield. The boots fail prematurely from heat of the cat. And the left and right axles are the same part

Is the car a manual 5spd? with hill holder equipped subarus, I find it best to depress the clutch while bleeding the rear brakes. That, and you want to follow the dual-diagonal sequence, starting from the RR wheel, LF, Then LR, then RF. The MC may be failing if you find the pedal continues to sink after holding pressure to the pedal. Also, with bleeding the brakes, it is best to use slow even strokes and to not bottom out the pedal between strokes, especially if bleeding the MC or installing one from new

Good luck with your shopping and welcome to Subaru. If it makes you feel better about what you are looking for, I put my family in almost 20 year old subaru with near 200,000 mi or more, as i am not afraid of what to expect with them (as i have had very many) and i do all the maintenance myself. Recently, I provided my woman with a 800 dollar 96 impreza 185,000 mi, original to Idaho, as i am in Wisconsin, and a rust free car is something to appreciate. All the car required of me was a PCV valve and an oil change. I did have to replace the master cylinder, but i have less than $1000 into this car, and almost that much into a 92 mazda i replaced it with. I also scored a 98 legacy outback with 132,000 mi with a skipped timing belt for 550 dollars. I repaired it with spare parts, and now it is good to go with a new timing belt for another 100000 mi. This is becuase the 2nd owner never did the 100,000 mi service after buying it from the first owner who sold or traded the car before the service was due. The timing belt skipped because one of the idler pulleys failed a bearing at 132,ooo mi. This is a win for me, getting a car for cheap, and a win for the car, since i saved if from junk (this is the limited with premium sound and leather interior!) Ironically, this is one of the nicest and lower mile used cars i have ever had out of almost 100 cars in my lifetime, and probably 50 subarus by now (althought a lot of them were 300 dollar rust piles) By this math, i am better off with 2 or 3 used subarus laying around than one new one, as i can resort to the 2nd or 3rd car as a backup i the first or 2nd one goes down for maintenance (the usual alternator or starter, routine repairs) The moral of the story is here: A lower mile car is approaching the 100,000 mi mark will be due for its major service interval. A car with more than 100,000 mi may already have the work done. This means a car with 80,000 mi is due for service and will get you 20,000 mi out of it. A car with 120,000 mi (assuming the 100,000 mi service was done) will get you 80,000 mi before it's due. Take this into consideration when shopping around. And don't be afraid of the miles, as these subarus routinely see towards 300,000 mi and more as long as you don't neglect the routine services or let it run out of fluids. One more thing to consider is who does your maintnenance. With subarus, the design is much different than conventional autos with horizontally opposed engines and AWD layout, the car is basically a mirror imigae of itself if you cut it down the middle. With whomever does your maintnenance, you will find that either the mechanic knows nothing about the platform, or the the specializes exclusively in the platform. Common conventional auto knowledge a lot of times does not apply with subaru. You did right by joining this forum to learn about Subaru. Either way, whichever way yo go for newer or more used, you can do your part simply by checking the oil and the air in the tires to avoid reliability problems. Change the oil from 3-5000 mi, add as necessary (you may need to top off a quart between oil changes). Consider 5w40 wt oil if the car has more than 100,000 mi, especially with turbos, synthetic blend or full synthetic 0w40 oil. Good luck

I was given a starter presumably form an 87 gl or 92 loyale 5spd to use as a replacemetn in a 96 impreza 4eat. It works. I figured it would, but i had a doubt for a minute. I should have known this already. Well, i guess i did since i went after it. The original starter has a bullnose and a different starter body and solenoid.

I am using straight up con-tac shelf paper, applied with soapy water and sqee'd out with a credit card and trimmed with a razor blade. About 8 bucks for a roll from home depot will do up a whole wagon top and bottom

This is my secretmobile entry. I have been nominated to participate in judging and coordinating the event. I may go in early withthe 3door, and liz and georgia will show up in the outback woody

I had serviced the car using professional methods the other day. I installed cam2 synthetic multi vehicle ATF. The machine is a reservoir that connects in line withthe trans cooler, and exchanges fluids while the trans is in park at idle. First, I had drained the pan and refilled it with about 4.8 qts before starting the machine. So far the driveability is much better, the shift delay is not as noticeable, and the torque converter seems to be more engaged with the engine. The car just seems to roll better as well, less duty c shudder in tight turns, and less hinting around for RPM. I also changed the 4th spark plug and the ECTS the day before i serviced the trans. At 144 miles, i calculated 21.6 mpg. Shooting for better than 22 towards 24 this time

Forget the fram regular filter. IT has been posted about for a whole decade. The napa gold or silver (21361) series filters are mfg'd by WIX (51361), at least it was back in the day when i had ea82's. If you want a larger filter, cross reference with ford motorcraft fl1-a (5.0). Caution with turbo app on that, as a larger oil filter holds the oil near the turbo cross pipe causing the potential to heat soak the oi.