MilesFox

All of the parts in my car were originally going to go in a brat. There is a subframe modification you can do to use ea82/xt6 control arms on the ea81 body, and this will allow you to use a whole ea82/xt6/impreza/legacy strut/knuckle/axle. You can use ej18 axles to fit your current trans, or replace the trans with one with 25 splines to use the legacy or xt axles. This mod will not require hybrid axle. Otherwise, you can make a 5 lug fit if you disassemble the donor axlesm and ehte ea81 axles, and out the outer ends of the axles on the ea81 shaft, mix and match with the right boots, etc. I do not know the exact recipe for this. There is a thread about a 2.5 brat on this forum, where shows the crossmember modifications this would be the way i would recommend Now that i answered your question in my thread, now you owe me a compliment on my car!

Rear portion of the passenger side rocker sill. The rust was scraped off with a file, and 60 grit sandpaper pinch welds, same affair POR 15 on the rusty spots. this is behind the pinchweld. This will get faberglass later. POR on the wheel arches and a few spots i missed when i had the rear suspension apart. Fiberglass using the woven stuff and the gel you mix up like bondo. the outer layer is the woven stuff. I rolled a portion of it to dupliate the roll in the rocker sill, to not have a gap in the side skirt. It's not perfect, but it's not a hole in the side of my car, either. 60 grit, light body filler, 100 grit, glazing putty, 220 grit 2 coats of stone guard black. 2 coats, 2 coats, is all it takes! Then i used white rustoleum primer, 2 coats, before painting 2.5 coats of gold. Rustoleum 'gold rush' metallic close up of texture with stone guard The gold got 2 coats of rustoleum 'automotive' clar coat. Home Depot carries a full line of rustoleum including specialty and limited products Here is my workspace in the garage. I have the lantern to see my paint up close as i'm painting. And sega genesis to end the night, no fighting over 1 player games!

If you have an ea82 body your car will be like mine. If its an ea81 body, you will have to either modify the axles, or modify the crossmember/control arms. a DOHC engine will fit the same. I used an 89 xt6 for a donor. all the driveline was bolt-up to the body. I had to modify the shifter, since my donor car was an xt. A 5spd pushbutton shifter would be a direct fit. I had to make a mount for the driveshaft, since this car was FWD to start tout. Dimensionally, all of the swap bolts in the same.

you will get ode 11 and 13 anytime you are pulling codes and the car is NOT running. I would suggest the ign amplifier on the coil braket if a no spark issue after warm, but works again after sitting a bit. I would suggest coolant temp sensor if the car rund good until warm, and then wont idle or start without the pedal. You got spfi or mpfi turbo? 85-86, 87, or 88-94?

The code 7 is an identity code. As far as your symptoms, i would suggest the coolant temp sensor. Sometimes the code can be vauge, and a defective part would almost have to be entirely broken, or disconnected to trip a code. You might just be reading a stored code. There is a clear memory connector as well. Have you read the code retrieval sequence?

you can go with 2 pot calipers and rotors and fit under 15 inch wheels. I swapped all the brakes from a 2000 outback wagon to my 94 gt wagon

Too bad.I would have given the 200, since scrapyards pay between that and 300 for junkers, you almost cannot get a car for less than that. If you are really set on a brat, desmond is considering jelling his. I wholly object to selling it, but it's not my car(althouygh i want it if i had money) but anyway, It is deserving of being owned by a USMB member. It is in restorable condition, no rust, It has an ea82, and its original 4spd. I would recommend a 5 spd swap. It will probably be posted here soon.

yeah, but it's more common for the ign switch to fail.

Painted bumper Fenders hanging. This dude keeps getting in my pictures, and this one after he knocked a fender off the line. no biggie por 15, and then napa stone guard Gold Paint! i went to 4 different places to finally settle on Rust-Oleum 'gold rush' metallic. these parts were first sanded with 220, then white primer, then wetsand 400 grit, athen 2 coats paint, then will get one coat clear

if you look in my 86 3door build thread, you can drill a hole where the spot weld is to make the xt crossmember fit the ea82, and the motor mount holes are within an inch out. 4 inches seems a bit much. It can fit. The xt crossmember will allow you to use an ej steering rack

check to see that the intake gasket is not leaking, since there is a water jacket. Also check the little hose from the thermostat to toe top of the block. Any leaks there will tend to pool up in the #3 spark plug.

But they will fit, at least an ea81 hub works on an ea82. same dimensions, heavier casting. It might be different the other way around

I have had luck with sticky shift knobs with a citrused based cleaner like orange glo or similar. Billy Mays would demonstrate if he were still around. If i have a really nasty car, i will take the parts out and wash them in the sink

turbo with manual trans, any 85-94 gl, rx. gl-10 or any with 'full time 4wd' (4eat) trans. be sre to get the TCU for the trans as well with the legacy harness

if its like anything like a 2.2/2.5, there is a nut on the pulley to hold it still, loosen it, and there is a bolt with left hand thread to move it up and down. once adjusted, tighten the nut on the pulley.

you already have the header, and cams would help now. then, later, throw the whole works on a 2.5 block. Your shifting patterns will determine how 'fast the car is' if you shift real early and never let the rpms past 2000, you are not going anywhere. compared to 3800 engines and whatnot, the subaru has a large piston and a short rod, so it makes the best power mid rom, from 2000 to 5000 ideally, and 100-2500 cruising in town, and 2500-3000 on the highway

I stole the bumpers from the 88 3door to re-finish them and paint them to match the brown like a gl-10 would be. I used my last can of paint between the bumper and the wing. the wing turned out great! the bumper needs another coat. I will have to order more paint to do the wheel arches, and i would like to paint the mirrors body color. Light sanding to take the dingy off 100 grit 2 in one primer coat, one coat wet sanding 400 grit, rinse with hose This bumper is being re-conditioned. i por15 the metal parts behind the skin, and the strip with all the screws after uing a wire brush. This was sanded down mainly with 100 grit to get the flaky paint down The blue parts will be nice and smooth. The balck part is pocked and cracked, blasted by granite gravel roads, and the paint cracking fro the plastic flexing. Overall, bumper is straight with no gouges or rips, and it is not near as rusty as what i thought it would be. sanded, washed, and hung to dry smoother red hight build primer to fill in the cracks and pits. I may need glazing putty to finish, but the red primer filled in 75% of imperfections, but some of the cracks just wont fill with the paint. I painted one coat, sanded, painted again, sanded agian, 3rd time should do it where needed. still may need glazing putty. And now the yummiest and most delicous.......... This was the bottom of the can, after i painted the wing. the coverage is thin on the bottom, as illuminated by the flash. I could not see this until after i had taken the picture. but it is ready to install for show purposes at the don miller meet. I am painting toe top satin black. I found gold pinstriping to replae the 'chrome' channel The wing turned out great. I it looks thin on the edges, i already painted over that after the pics. The wing is great. I am very plaeased. I will clearcoat it, then wash and polish my car, and then install and be done!

I have seen this with some cars and not others. Usually dticky shifter knowbs. I have seen soft and gummy door uppers. maybe someone wheo uses lotion a lot and rests thatir arm can cause this. OR whatever you get on your hands is getting in your car. just a thought.

It could very well be the oil pressure sensor, which is on top o fthe middle of the engine under the alternator. This is a 7 dollar part. Look for yourself before you pay a big bill.

if the wheel is on the ground, and forces are going to be spread across the hub and the jugnuts beofre turning the axle, unless the wheel owas off the ground.. you can try cutting off the nut if it is way screwed up. the axle shaft should be a harder steel than the nut, so the threads should survive, where they may be compromised on the nut. You should be able to get new nut at the dealer, or one would come with a new axle. Make sure the flat washer goes on correctly, or the cone washer and nut will not hold torque. The flat washer is convex, with the convex side against the nut.

you may have a good chance at selling the old air strut parts to the http://www.subaruxt.com forums. complete pull-offs form a gl wagon or similar is the best bet. you get all the spring and tophats. and with that, you can replace with a new strut

any of the turbo models form 85-94 ea82 had the disc brakes. It would have been swapped. Bonus item for you. Ask for '88 gl-10' when ordering new parts.

I have used bar's leak on a forester ej25d(dual ohc) to fix a pinhole leak in the radiator. We bypassed the heater core for this, and b=changed with new coolant afterard. There was a 98 outback with bubbles in the coolant, no overheats, and the sodium silicate stuff fixed that. From new, the best defense against HG problems in newer engines with MLS gaskets is regular coolant changes. Much like the zinc rod in a water heater, the zincs int eh coolant are designed to corrode instead of the gaskets as dissimilar metals will produce an electrolytic action. The zinc rod in a water heater is supposed to be replaced as maintenance, and if not, the housing of the water heater rusts out. Same goes for coolant and dissimilar metals.

axle grease all over the cat, inside the heat shiled, and at highway speeds it gets hot enough to cook off. Not to say you are having a leak onto the exhaust pipe. What i am seaying is there is already grease residue there, and it will cook off more smoke over sustained driving vs stop and go. it's really much simpler than all the speculations.