MilesFox

for the starter, the ground led will be on a bracket that the bellhousing bolt goes through on the top of the starter. The red pos cable bolts to the back of the starter on the top. There is a small single tab wire for the starter solenoid.

It appears that the brown wire is replacing anoriginal wire that goes from the negative battery terminal to the same bolt on the water pupe that the body gtound goes(black w/yellow wire) If you look at the bolt on the water pipe, you may see the other end of the connection

If you run the car with no header, it makes bloop-bloop noises and sounds almost like it is underwater.

Use the subaru brand coolant conditioner if it has not been applied already. this was subarus fix in a bottle to an inevitable annoyance. I would also suggest the liquid glass sodiam silicate type block and crack sealers. This should fix it and stop the bubbles. You need to apply this product with fresh water and no coolant, and follow the directions explicitly. Then you can use fresh coolant and the subaru coolant conditioner. This is easier than throwing a fit or blaming the mechanic. Ask him what his opinions are for it. I, myself, have had good success with such a product over many subaru engines of different years and HG symptoms. If i was your mechanic, i would suggest it.

Geographically you can go south and east to dodge rust, but the fact is more of them were sold and they were imported from the west coast and therefore an abundance of them to pick and chose from. Logistically south and east would be easier, given the selection.

The inner end of the axle is going to squish together and take up all that stretch in the boot. If the axle is stuck like you see it, it probably pulled out past the c-clip.

iff the 2wd rear hubs without the disc are available let me know.

What brand or paint number is that gold? I am trying to find the right gold color. Looks good!

I agree 90-96 legacy subarus are the best with ej22e motor. even the 90-94 seem better built, better fit and finish, materials than the 95 and up. 95 legacy is a good choice as it has OBD2 functin, but at the same time, is not subject to emissions permits(at least here in wisconsin) I am native to northern indiana, and i know how scarce the soobs can be. Dont be afraid of the mileage, ans a higher mile car reflects the amount of maintenance it has had to last that long. Junkers in the yard have lower miles. Something with over 200,000 miles MUST have had a timing belt or other major service to still be rnning. A properly maintaned soob can lase well over 300,000 miles, and make the 200,000 mile mark on their original timing belts and water pumps. Good luck with the soob search. You may find them more common in ohio or michigan. I used to co to columbus to hit the junkyards for 80's subarus.

I like this color gold Can anyone make out the paint code?

I have an inverter somewhere, that it could run if i idled the car, and had some deep cell battery in there. I would have to get the fan installed to do that. Or i could bring a long cord and borrow an outlet. How many watts do you think 2 turntables with mixer, a sony boom box(which by batteries is DC 12v?

The lip of the bacing plate might just be bent a little and is rubbing the rotor. This happened to me when i did the brakes on susans car. i bent it out with a screwdriver and that cured it.

Please keep us updated on your performance for archival sake, as it is cases like yours that are documented are the best kind of knowledge to help people that search here to know what works or doesn't work.

they just fit in. The one could have pulled out with the head. It could have fallen on the floor. Or it was missing already.

88 3door now has brakes! still some air in the lines, but no leaks! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1023781#post1023781

now this car has brakes....4 lugs in front and 5 lugs in rear. with compression fittings! Pulling drum shoes with stuck bleeders 2000 outback calipr, does not fit. may fit with modified bracket, once it comes off the outback. This is an idea yet for the build. If it works, i may swap it onto my other 86 3door I couldnt buy these if i mentioned brake lines. If anyone has issues, compression fittings are safer than rusted out brake lines. and, you still don't need brakes to drive the car anyway Used rotors from one xt6, used brake pads form another xt6, and calipers form an ea82 turbo. This will eventually get new pads and rotors. xt6 wheels in the back, 5 lug, and peugeot wheels in the front, 4 lug. 14 inch and 195/60 all the way around. "poor man's 5 lug swap" 88 xt6 donates its wheels and brake caliper brackets Where this car now sits is the first time it has driven with brakes-some 4 miles-about 275 miles after getting here from across state with NO brakes

Subaru Alliance has brought home an 88 gl coupe 1.8 ea82 4wd 3at from some nice folks in central WI who have retired all of their EA82 stuff to Team TrashWagon for a build to enter in local rally events, urban baja, railroad tracks, and farmers' fields. The plan will first be to address body issues with rust, replacing a fender, and taking up some of the interior to inspect for rust. The interior is rather nice for what the outside of the car looks like. This car is 4wd automatic, but it comes with a 5spd dual range and all the parts to swap. I also have a forester trans, and an ej22 laying around. The easiest thing to do would be to swap in the dual range. eventually i may do the ej22 up for it, cut down a harness, etc. And when that is ready, put in the forester trans, or even hybrid the 2 to make a dual range ej trans with just the 5spd, or as it is, i may swap on 2000 outback suspension, but i would have to swap axle parts around with parts i dont have. I do have xt6 parts to use to make the outback knuckles fit, and the 5 lug hubs for the rear. Or i just might do a 'poor man's 5 lug' swap by using the 5x100 knukles in the front, and keeping the 4x140 pattern in the back, and running a 14" peugeot wheels in the back and legacy 14" steelies in the front. I can do this if i reserve the xt6 parts for something else. I may do some road sign skid plates. And whatever i can build up for it, i would like to reproduce to put on my 86 3door runabout. First things first, i need to replace a brake line. I drove it home 275 miles loaded down with parts with just the hand brake.

^^^ works for me when coming apart or going together

You might have to get 2 or 3 couplers to make the adaptations you want. Usually for me, i end up with 2 couplers, but the joining sides are the same diameter in the middle, and i will butt-weld them together to have the dimeters on the ends be what i need, and then install

Well, you have to if there is no denying it. I would only be fooling myself. But enough about that. And, speaking of subaru parts..... I went on to do more brake lines on the 88. There will need to be a compression fitting as both sides that go through the seat are rusted between the union and the grommet. The rear bleeders on the drms feel like they will break if i try to losen them. I found all of the disc brake hardware minus tthe pads. I was going to do a poor mans 5 lug and swap on the xt6 hubs, using the ea82 disc calipers and xr6 rotors. Well, the caliper bracket does not clear the xt6 rotors. I trie the 2000 outback calipers. The brackets have different holes. I want to try and get the backing plate from the outback and make it fit, and that should work. The outback rotor is about 1/4 inch larger, but sits too far onto the hub. So i am waiting on ea82 pads to use the ea82 rotor. So we will still have disc brakes, so i can bleed them! I really want to go with 5 lug tho, if i can get xt6 caliper brackets, or, maybe, if i can have an xt6 rotor bought new machned down in diameter to fit the ea82 bracket. I have a machine shop to go to if it is possible to do such a thing. But as i am typing this, i just had an idea. I can do the poor mans 5 lug on the xt6 i have already, since we have Peugeot wheels. I can just swap the ea82 disc brake onto the xt6, and use the xt6 brakes on the 88 3door. the pugs and the xt wheels are both 195/60 14. So therefore, i can have 5 lug in the front, and 4 lug in the back with the xt, and have all same size wheels. On the 3door, i can keep 4 lug in front, and 5 lugs in rear. This will acommodate the build plans to use my other set of xt6 control arms and the 2000 outback knukle, brake, and strut on the 3door up front, once i hybrid some axles. I also have a forester trans 5mt, the rear diff from the outback, and access to the modded driveshaft and crossmemer to go ej in this car. I like the idea of hybriding the dual range with the forester, having the part time 4wd and forester gears. The leftover viscous coupling would go in the xr6 trans in my 86 3door.

there is some info on the xt boards about poly urethane bushings for ea82's

Don miller meet is coming next weekend, we shoud start discussing it more deeply as far as convoying and wht we do before/after and such, and if we have extra drivers to drive our extra cars. Since they want me to call the announcements at the end of the show, i wonder if i can get away with throwing the turntables in the back of the car and just emcee the whole event? I would bring it for the novelty, at least

sorry folks, as i woke up from a bad dream, and totally missed the 'legacy'part of the thread. i was trippen, and i'll admit that. There is no reason for me to not trust anyone. I just have compounding frustrations in regard to keeping track of things and finding time to do something for myself amidst all of this 'services' i do for other people. I am over it, as i have sent a PM to tom with an apology. I am fine with tom seeing my apologies, and no mention of this from here as it never happened. my fault

I use a shop press from harbor freight, and it gets the job done, but a 'hub tamer' would be the better tool(i have never used one) as the shop press for me can be difficult stacking odd blocks of wood and using hammers and sockets as dies to do work that should be a little more precise. The hub tamer should allow you to do the bearign without removing the knuckle. otherwisem to do it by hand, you will need a big drift pun, 3 lb hammer, and you will heve to remove the snap ring and seals, and hope you dont destroy anything. worst comes to worst, remove the knuckle from the car, and then ahve the shop press out the bearing. You will alt least save a bunch of labor cost versus the ship servicing the bearing on the car

Start doing timing belts.Rite of passage with these cars. Easy to do