MilesFox

If you do look in a factory owners book, it will stat that "Towing with your subaru is not recommended" In my opinion, i think the driveline of a subaru with its engine would haul a 1 ton load on its back, or pull 5,000 lbs, if the subaru itself were heaveier, with heavy enough hubs and bearings to support the weight. I have towed whole cars with GL subarus, once across 300 miles through chicago. I would say if you are towing with a subaru, its not as relavant as what the car can do and the weight of the trailer, but the experience of the person driving, and understanding the dynamics of towing. Towing a fishing boat with a subaru is cake. end of story.

Typically tongue weight is 10% of the overall load, so that would be 200 pounds on a 2000 lb load

this has heppened to me. I bypassed witha toggle by backfeeding power nto the green wire, and drove it this way for almost 2 years before i discovered fuse 5 was out.

urethane, not silicone

my plan was to touch up the brown on the wheel arches with what i have left of the brown paint. Then paint gold on the bottom and rx body kit. Then clearcoat the sides, if not the whole car. The roof definitely needs re-clered

good luck as u-haul is going to have a near impossible to find 250 dollar hitch for some bumper piece, class 2 at best, compared to buying ford f350 itches all day for 100 bucks and class 3 rating. i modified my car to accept a ford f250 hitch. If you cant get it from u-haul, it wont exist, since uhaul carries curt, valley, and other top makes(no reese), and their part numbers are the same as the manufacturer number which is the same number that any other store would have. but, whatever you can find, will work just fine!

The hoses could fail prematurely if there is constant oil leaks on them and the rubber breaks down. The other possibility is rust, caused by winter road salts, that could have caused a pinhole leak in the metal portion of the line. this is especially possoble whre the metal line has a fastener or clip that would hold dirt and moisture causing the rust-through. Another possibility would be if the trans was serviced or flushed, and one of the hoses could have been stretched or torn, or a bad clamp installed

^^^ I like this shade of gold. Not too bright or yellow, and not too blingy. The color on the wheels look very close to the factory color of 94 legacy gt wagon snowflake rims.

I would do WCSS again, but i refuse to go through idaho. But next time with an all-the-way put together car and a valid drivers license.

i meant updated like the outbacks are, with the champagne color on the lower half. I painted a burgundy loyale sedan this way, and it looked less like an older model. i painted the wheel arches too. but tis time, i would like to keep it below the wheel arches. This was a rustoleum gold color if i remomber correctly. It may be duplicolor. This was some 6 years and 20 subarus ago

you will want the 5spd speedo cable, since the at one is too short. all you need is the front half of the driveshaft. but if you have both, the rear part is interchageable in the case of bad u- joints since thay are all on the rear half, which is the same. keep any and all bolts that come out to get your parts, as you will need them

By defuinition, that woud be considered rust-free by midwest standards. Ihave seen cars that are clean on the outside, and rusted out underneath(silver, metallic blue) and others that are surface rusty on the outside, but very solid underneath(white, charcoal, red/burgundy) And here i am driving around in cars with no floors and framerails, that i plan on fixing, while everyone is afraid of a single rust spot. I suppose you can go for rust free examples not too far away, since geographically, you have that option. In the midwest, you have to take what you can get if you want it. But in any regard, a rust free car will rust out vvery soon if it is imported to a rusty environment, so starting with a rust free car versus one with a little rust is almost a moot point, unless you plan on never driving the car, and lever letting it out of the garage. I think the idea of compromise from rust is exaggerated a bit here on the forum, mainly that most of the folks here are from rust free regions that would not be used to seeing as much, or even aware that other people daily drive and usually have much rustier cars than what would be considered 'safe' by people who never had rusty cars. If the brake and fuel lines havent rusted through yet, then the car is not totally done and can be useful with a little work.

There is a shallower radio, that is mp3/usb/sd interface, but no cd, but the deck is shorter in depth than a standard unit. I ended up with one with an xt6. The brand is DUAL, i believe, and i think that is a wal-mart brand. I'm not sure if there is an AUX jack on it. An ipod might work in the usb if the stereo will read the file structure in the ipod

I am considering painting a gold color as a 2-tone on the bottom half of my 86 3door. The car is root beer brown color, paing code #569, PPG "Crest Brown Metallic" I am looking for picures of your subarus in their factory gold colors, anything like a loyale rx with gold badges and gold 'chrome', and also, any pictures of bbs gold wheels, or anyones gold painted wheels with whatever flavor op paint/duplicolor/rustoleum. I would also like to know what paint codes you have on your gold soobs, or what brand/color of paint that anyone has pinted gold on their cars. I like the idea of gold, i think it would go well with the brown, and update the look of the car like the outbacks have. I am just afraid of what ghetto chrome gold may look like, and i am thinking of a factory paint gold, or something more towards a bronze color. Opinions? Perhaps another color instead?

administer it to the throttle body. A plastic air intake is not going to rust.

check the contacts on the switch. If one switch is unplugged, the rest wont work. But since you are posting in the retrofitting forum, the answer will be to convert to manual windows:lol:

only if you don't check the oil and beat the crap out of it.

I used to break mine down for transport, and carried it in the trunk of my sedan with the seats down. I would think you can fit it into a wagon. You may want to remove the jack and the boom to make it easier to fit

I swapped the starter out wit the one that was original to the engine and adapter plate behind a 4spd ea81 trans. Still had the starter dragging with the flywheel. I put some washers between the trarter and the trans and that cured it. I used ea82 head bolt washers. I would have used thinner ones if i could find 2 that matched out of my 5 gallon buckets of subaru hardware. I cannot explain why it was rubbing, but the variable was 4spd vs 5spd trans with this particualr adaptrer and flywheel(ea82)

let the tensione move over all the way tight. You want the crank driven side of the belt to be as tight as possible, and all the slack on the tensioner side of the belt. You can turn the pulley enough to make the belt tight. The tensioner has a spring that will pull it tight against the belt. you can push on the tensioner against the belt to hold it tight as you tighten the bolts. the belts should be taut with very little deflection. you can inspect, and re-tighten the belts as they age and stretch through their life span. The rubber plugs on the timing belt covers allows you to do this without removing the middle cover.

I drove mine home the other nite. The driveshaft rubs on my carrier mount, and there is a fuel leak opposite of the pump. Otherwise, it drives, is finished, except for hooking up the gauges and the VSS

I always kept the clutch fan for simple mechanical relaiability. If your electric fan or thermoswitch fails, andd you get stuck in traffic, there goes your HG. Electrics, i suppose, can be more effective. The lutch fan works best when the shroud is present. Who said you can't use an electric fan WITH the clutch fan. Any 'parasitic power loss' from the clutch fan is inconsiderable, considering it is already there by design, and any gains by removing it does not benefit as much as 100% reliability with a mechanical fan. Give or take either way

My opinions would be to find an 88-89 gl, since they are more refined than 85-87, and the loyales carry over the 88+ engineering up to the 94 loyale, but the GL's are a little bit nicer in options and style than a loyale, where the loyale is more econo box, or limited in options based on order. But, any option that a loyale does not have, will be able to swap over from a GL since the plugs and fittins already exist in the design of the car. 5spd manual is the best bet. Or something with a 4eat(full-time 4wd) versus a 3spd automatic. Usually you will find the 4eat in a turbo or mpfi model

as long as the center mark is lined up on the flywheel, the cams can be in any position. Be sure to center the flywheel(all pistons at center of bore) and then you can remove the belt, and turn the cams any way. Are you pulling the motor? ej25d? I would only change the motor mounts if they are oil soaked and spongey, but if never contaminated, they hold up pretty well. Make that decision based on cost. The mounts are the same regardless of trans

What i am saying is subaru entered f-1 with a coloni designed 12 cylinder and failed miserably