MilesFox

In the event of a stripped hub, generally the Axle's ssplines survive being a hardened steel versus the softer cast steel of the hub. Stripped hubs are the result of loose or improperly installed axle nut. It seems simple enough, but there IS a WRONG way to install the washers in the axle nut, so be aware of this. If the car had a loose axle nut and stripped hub for some time, it could have compromised the wheel bearing. Otherwise, if the axle is indeed broken, all you have to do is replace it and nothing else is compromised....as long as you install the axle nut properly

It was posted on the xt boards. I put my claim to it the day it was posted. 72 hours later i am driving it. that is what a milesfox does to hopeless subarus

The brat we had(ej'd) would stay running in the acc pos, and would run after shutoff until the cooling fan stopped spinning

The car is front wheel drive in 2 wheel, and engages the rear axle for 4wd. The trans has no transfer case, but rather a PTO shaft that is driven from the front diff. You most likely have either a broken front axle, or a stripped hub. It is a common known fact that if your front axle breaks, you can put it in 4wd to get home. You are essentially running rear-wheel drive this way. The axle is not difficult to replace if you know the tips and tricks, which there is plenty of info hear if you search. Your car is an ea82 engine, and that generation of whole car is generally referred to as "ea82" for your search terms. Put the car in fwd and in gear, set the hand brake, and observe if you see parts of the axle spinning or not. Look for the inner end of the axle to spin, and not the shaft. This will let you know if you have a broken inner or outer axle. If you see the whole axle spinning, and the axle nut is spinning too, this is a stripped hub, which is super easy to fix and does not require a new axle. both left and right axles are interhangeable. The inner splines are 23 at the trans. If ordering new axles, and to avoid confusion in cross referencing and getting the wrong part, order one for a 1990 loyale non turbo

The brown relay should be the fuel pump. What you are looking at is the ignition relay, if it has a green plug. Look under the dash above the fuse panel. there will be 4 relays like the one you mentioned. Try swapping one around and see what the results are. If that does not work, trouble shoot back to the fuse panel, and back to the fusible links. Check which fuses come live when the key is on and off, and if any are live all the time, and any that are not that are supposed to be. Fuse #5 will supply the constant memory voltage to the ECU, and the car will not run if voltage is not present. Have you replaced the stereo? The green wire on the back of the stereo(single wire with white plug) should be hot all time. If it is not, you can backfeevoltage into this waire to supply the constant volts to the ECU.

This is great info as i have no experience in ice racing, other than winter driving on the streets and the occasional run of parking lots and industrial complexes! This car has the air suspension, and it seems so far, that it works, at leas when running after sitting for 10 years. The car is rather low as it is. The air ride is a little weird versus springs, as the car is somewhat bouncy like it rides on bumpstops. I tell you that towing it on flat suspensions was quite tricky! I would be doing the WAG circuit in wisconsin. This car is rater rusty, enough that you could say it's structural. So that makes me wonder if it would be a tech inspection issue, or if trying to chop and weld and reinforce would make it illegal in such an event. If worst comes to worst, and the car does not qualify, it would make a good winter driver, or it's worth it's weight in 5 lug parts to swap on the next project. I plan to pull the interior to inspect the floor pans and other vital areas for rust-through. I really lore for a working and drivable xt6. If i could only find a better example. But 200 bucks is awesome for a car that could be made to run with virtually no effort.

Lifted XT rocks:slobber:

"General Disorder" is the user name

Tom(the Loyale) and I just went to chicago to go after this 88 xt6http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12178&p=136296#p136296 We got there and it had sat since 2002 with a rusted brake line. We swapped some tires around, hooked it to a tow bar, and towed it back to milwaukee with a 95 legacy TrashWagon10 2.2 e4at, 16" wheels, u-haul hitch. The drive back was interesting, as the air suspension was flat, and the car was teetering on its bumpstops, undulating and jarring the tow vehicle, as we drove down uneven concrete roads that are buckled like a wash board, at 45mph, until we hit the main highway with smooth asphalt blacktop. We got this car back to the shop. I found that fuel pump was not working, so i swapped in a spare. After a minute or 2 of cranking, she fired up on old 10 year old gas. I replaced the rusty brake line, and now she is a running driver! The body is rusted to hell and back, much worse thsn the rusty xt6 i just chopped down with a sawzall. This car is fully functional, even the air struts work. The only thin janked up is the power antenna. This car is too far past restoring it, but it would make a good ice racer. This is what i wanted to do with the last xt6, but it had too much going on with a bad clutch and wheel bearing, after doing head gaskets. this one i plan to remove the interior and trim, sell off what is desired and not broken(a piller window trim, instrument bezel, etc) and drive it like it is. and make some structural improvements in the rusty areas from the inside, and cut out anything that is not structural. I may even ditch the gas tank and go for a fuel cell type device. I figure the xt6 will have an aerodynamic advantage in ice racing, and tall gears, as long as it can keep pace with turbos on the straights. I am debating going high or low with the suspension. And on ice, is a lot of travel good or bad?. Body lean good or bad? Keep watching, tom took all the pictures and will post them here as soon as he logs in! This will be the build/progress/life and death story thread for this car.

the last mechanic probably smashed the pump when installing hte motor or trans for routine service. You can try a used one, vs rebuilt, as they dont usually fail unless not maintained, wrong fluids, no fluids. The worst you will find is one that needs a duty c colenoid, which can be swapped from your trans. you can find a used good one for about 300 bucks, if you know where to look

try NAPA. their in house brand filters are made by WIX

I'll trade you arusted out xt6 with 97,000 miles that runs and drives for your clean body. I will make it run by poking it with a stick. If you are parting it out, i'm sorry to say that my car is the better candidate, and your car would make a better driver for me. Think about it. Otherwise i will gut my car and sell all the trims and bezels and just drive it your low idle may just be a CTS or IAC

this is for the lo-range only. the 4wd switch is on the trans [quoite=Mr. Brat;1010027]There is a mirco switch under the center console that ts for the lo-rangurns the 4wd light on in the cluster. That could be out of adjustment also. As for the churping... It can still do this in 2wd, but either way it shouldn't churp unless it has a lock rear diff. Lift the back both tires off the ground and try and turn one wheel. If it doesn't turn then it is in 4wd. If both rear wheels turn the same direction then the rear diff is welded. Spinning the opposite direction the diff is open. Hope this helps.

I have an ej22 from o1 impreza mated to an xt6 5mt, ea82 flywheel and pp. I am using the car's original starter from fwd 5spd. I think i remember there is a slight clearance issue. I need to know how much spacing is needed, the best manner to do so, or if i should use a different starter. It shounds like the bendix gear is dragging along when the engine is running. I have only run the engine long enough to start, and to test alternator oputput.

I have seen pictures of a loyale wagon with full legacy dash and front bumper. I think its possible. the loyale is probably wider than the brat. I think it would mostly fit enought to work

It is possible that the set screw for the rotor fell out, and the rotor is not turning. check for this, as it can mimick a timing belt failure

If the xt trans is still there, that will be the best bet, with the right gearing for the 6 cyl, the right axle splines, the right xt6 trans crossmember, and shifter. The shifter is specific to the xt, and a normal gl shifter will not fit correctly, ans the xt shifter is longer, and the trans tunnel has a lower profile and a flatter angle of attack You will want to grab the center console bits with the diff lock switch, and you also want to get the green vacuum solenoids and all the hoses that operates the diff lock on the trans, if using this xt6 trans, or an rx trans, or any single range pushbutton 4wd 5mt trans You will also need the front half of the driveshaft, but you can get this from any 5mt If you need a flywheel, you can get one from any ea82 otherwise, you can use gl trans if you modify or use an xt shifter, and swap on 23 splune axle cups from a 3at turbo, or do impreza axles if you change the inner seal on the knuckle.

Broke the timing belt. The timing belt drives the distributir. The distributor turns on the fuel pump. Do a simple test; remove the distributor cap and observe the rotor while cranking. If it is not spinning, the belt is your problem.

1985-86 gl steering wheel. The caar it comes from is the same as any 85-94 l series, loyale, dl/gl/rx/gl10

The cold heatr would indicate low coolant. This is the point you add some before she loses enough to overheat. I have driven on bad head gasket with bubbles(ea82) and would run the heat, and when the heat got cool, add coolant, as this would happen before the car overheated. I would run with the cap vebted to prevent the bubbles from over pressurizing znd creating an air pocket. You could get by with the liquid glass block sealer to stop the bubbles. Do this and at least replace the water pump. Bet on doing head gaskets and save up for the parts. But the block seal may just get you by for a good while

I would explore finding a used or pull-off unit if possible. Sometimes you find them cheap on craigslist, when someone installs a fancy bling exhaust. If the price is right for a new cat, then you may as well. I myself would bypass it or cut it out, but i have done that before, and this time i would rather at least find a used one to replace for the sake of the o2 sensor functioning properly.

There shouldbe green connectors. They may be plugged in. Refer to the 'engine code' article by searching. the code 7 is an identifications code. There is an LED on the ECU just under the steering column. drop the kick panel and you will see it. Use this LED to read the codes

if you know what you are looking for and pull it yourself, junkyard is the way to go. Usually the rads are pretty clean, they have to be OLD to be horribly corroded. Check all th plastic sides. You are most likely to find good ones with little chance for a bad apple. It all depends on what is most convenient to you. foresters and 2.5 have dual row rads if you want a bigger one

I vote for an inefficient radiator or water pump, since the car only overheats at sustained highway driving. I would rule out a ead gasket as a cause of the overheat, but yet, i would consider a bad head gasket if the motor gets overheated too hot or too often. As you are now, address the radiator. Good radator makies happy motor. ea82t's can be reliabla, but ONLY as reliable as the cooling system

typically oil leaks will find their way down to the middle of the valve cover seams to drip off, even if the oil is coming from the top of the engine. Check to see if the oil pressure sensor under the alternator is leaking, as t can make a mess. Chances are the HG is not bad as long as there is no bubbles in the coolant, and it passes a compression test. The advice from AAA is probably related to later model cars with MLS gaskets, and therefore assumed to apply to your car when the word subaru is mentioned.