MilesFox

There are access panels inside the bed that you can remove to access the wiring to the rear. You may have luck just unplugging and re-connecting them a few times to restore a contact, as i have seen this trick work on an old brat once before. It's worth a shot

Overtightening the belts can cause bearing failures. I dont think its a common occurrence, but the belt systems o n the newer stuff will allow you to overtighten it much more easily

you could probably get by with just the top bolts, ans long as you are not rotating the engine upside down! otherewise, you can remove the studs by locking 2 nuts together. they are m10x1.25 thread, if you are trying to use longer hardware. Long bolts will be fine. If you had fleets of parts around, another set of bellhousing bolts would work too

I have heard of these ideas and thought of them myself for a trike application. I believe the gears will hae to be reverse cut for a flip. The ring gears share dimensions with NISSAN manufacture as well. I dont know the specifics, but f you know to look at nissan parts for the soob trans, that might get what you are looking for. go with the 5spd trans from 85 and later gl subarus

HA! we meet again..(evil laugh) Tom has been telling me about your brake lines. How did that go so far? I'm sure we;ll see you agian sometime. (ps, i got another red legacy for sale, same color, same price, what a coincidence)

Do the baffle plate behind the engine. You can leave the rear crank seal alone if it's not leaking, which most likely is not, and only would be compromised if the engine was cooked.

This is actually an option for you. sometimes, you have to just take what you can get, if the pickin's are slim, like they are here in my side of the usa

Maybe the timing belt failed, or slipped, confusing your mechanic that is used to PUSHRODS

1990or below shoud have the regular seat belt. They moved to automatic belts as a SRS worj=karound for federal madate for airbags. You will need the a pillar trim to use after removing the auto belt assembly, nad switch out the reel inside the console for a reel inside the b pillar, and switch the seat mounted buckle clip for one that bolts to the floor between the seat and the console.

Got more subarus than room to work on them. You gotta be clever about rotating the fleet to keep operations going.

Sometimes i get flack about my japanese subaru when it comes to small town america old timers. Their sentiments being from WW2 and that time of history, union loyalty, baby boomer, etc. (Their stigmas towards 'japs' as there are with muslims in this modern post september era) But when i get hell at the local napa for buying japanese parts for a japanese car, my justification is I am spending my american made american dollars at an americal local independent napa to order parts manufactured by and for american companies(Felpro with national seals in the box) and this japanese car that was bought 20 years ago is already bought, and my money still keeps going to the local gas station, the guy i bought it from, and gets my happy rump roast to work It's really a generational thing, wether you are of a generation, or influenced by a generation.

old american stuff(;ike my gmc) haver a FR and RR distribution, being that both rear wheels are on the same line, as well as the front. The subaru however(and most modern day cars since the 90's) have a dual diagonal brake system, where one front wheel, and its opposite rear wheel are on a circuit, and vice versa. (tom, this explains why i only get brake pressure out of LF and RR wheels) This is designed for safety. my gmc has a bad wheel cylindr, so i only have front brakes, and in the rain, the fronts can lock and lose steering control. The soob, however, will grab one front and one wheel to give the car a more balanced braking ability if one side loses pressure. Typically, you would want to start at the whell farthest from the MC, being the RR

I was rather impressed with my girl's 94 legact 4eat. For an automatic, it performs better than most makes, i think, plus all the manual control you can do with it.

I would suggest the coolant temperature sensor as a more common occurrence, especially that the car behaves differently cold than warm.

The torwue converter will seat about 3 times as it seats on both shaftsm adn into the ump housing. it is best to leave the TC on the trans, unbolted form the motor when removing the motor, if the tC is not leaking.

How are your wires connected?the black wire is positive! the yellow wire is negative. Good luck

you can lose it and go for a non-ac belt at the parts store, as long as the pump is not part o the alternator bracket. You can change out to a non-ac alt brackket. you can remove the pump from the bracketry. you will hae a 'flaoting piece, but you cn brace that with a pipe and some all thread.

I mounted the dashboard after tom left. I got the fenders and marker lites, grille and grille support bolted to the 3door. I need to find the screws for the valence. I fitted the bumper, but have not bolted it. She looks like a car again, rollin east coast style with the stink bug stance. I like the look, especially if it had a wing, ultra wedge, but if it rides funny, i got the xt pull-offs from clint to drop it down even with the front. I also mounted the dashboard. I had a Bee-oTCH of a time. First, the steering column was not far enough forward for the mount holes to line up. So i loosened the ujoint under the hood to push it further. Then that bolt would not go in, and all of a sudden the wheel is off a spline. So after about 3 attempts, and resorted to laying under the car to get the bolt, i finally got it. Then the clutch pedal was floppy. It was missing a bushing, since the whole dam pedal has to come off to change the cable, and there is a bracket that is clocked with the spring which is a *************** to line up and thread bolts. Other than that, the hazard came on when i made some plug-ins, and the key turns on and cranks the engine. This car is now mechanically complete from the dashboard forward. The xt shifter is a bit goofy, and i may have to modif,y bend or cut it down to fit right, as i am afraid the center console will not clear it, and the xt trans tunnel is shallower with a flatter angle of attack to the floor. Diff mounted. Holes drilled. these bolts are temporary until i can get to a hardware store. these are extraneous bellhousing bolts out of 3 5 gallon buckets of subaru bolts, as testament to how many soobs have been torn down. These are the bolts form inside the car. They come through the wheel well seam where it meets the floor. They will be hidden by the interior panleing. I still have to make a carrier bearing mount. I will have to bend the shifter to clear the center console. The shifter will be farther back than normal. I may have to shorten it, since that section of the tunnel is longer on an xt, and shallower with a flatter angle of attack. I would need a single range gl/loyale/dl shifter to fit properly with no mods. I would like this with the 4wd button as the diff lock. From here, all that is left is the rear wheel bearing, install the rear swaybar, and install the exhaust. Iam saving the best part(the harness) for last. This way, when i get the car to run, i can go ahead and drive it!

If you had to remove the timing belt, i would suspect it is aligned wrong. Use the hashes, and not the arrows. There are several marks on the crank sprocket, but the one with the dot is the one to use. Subaru belts are atypical of other makes as the TDC mark is not used for alignment, but rather a mark that represents all of the cylindrs are at the center of their stroke at the same time

Well, if you want me to answer my suggestion, i will give you ideas i had for my 95 tercel smooth hubcaps(oldsmobile 13's) I have a bunch of plastic sheets that are meant for wire shelves, and i was going to make a 'cadillac' style cover for the rear wheels, and cover up the rear rollpan to make the bumper flush with the tire well and gas tank, and do the same for the front around various frame members. I have already removed the back seal and passenger seat for the purposes of cargo storage and trunk pass through. Any fuel economy/aero/hypermile mods are an afterthought/side effect of removing the seats on the www.subaruxt.com page, there are some interesting diagrams regarding the engineering of the xt body, based on the gl body and what they changed to get a .029 Cd, and this may give you some ideas

Check and see if any of the intake boot has popped off, loose clamps, or loose hoses on or around the intake boot. The MAF will come out of its housing by removing the 2 screws. If you take it out, you will see 2 filaments on the end of the peg that fits in the hole. Sometimes one of these filaments will fall off due to age and vibrations. This is something to look for regarding the MAF

automaticas can be changed to stick, and 2wd to 4wd. But a 2wd body willnot have the stamping for the carrier bearing and no holes for the diff. BUT, everything bolts in vice versa of what came out.

The entire midwest would crumple in an accident. Unless your car was only a year or 2 old. But then it would start to rust.

you may want to do 21mm lugnuts.

If it comes down to it, i would come off my calipers for 100 bucks installed, as long as i can keep the take-offs for rebuild