MilesFox

It could be done as you will need the caliper bracket part anyway, and the bolt holes line up the same. You will need the 4wd hubs, tho

napa house brand 1361, 21361, and wix 51361. Also can use motorcraft (ford) fl-1a or equivalent, mighty (fast lube) m500

I finally got the 4th spark plug installed after getting that rubber booy out with a dental pick and wd40. I also changed out the ECTS as i had one NIB with my other car. While i did this, i took the PVC hoses apart and cleaned inside the baffle what i could, and cleaned the hotwire MAF. The car runs so much better now, better throttle response, ;ess throttle input to maintain cruise, and overall better driveability. The timing and shifting doesn't seem to hunt around as much. I also flushed the trans fluid with full synthetic using professional methods. The engine seems more engaged with the trans, rolls easier, and the 2nd gear upshift isn't as abrupt. The car actually downshifted on ots own while descending a hill as i was slowing to turn. Overall, i am much happy. WOW I also woodied up the lower parts of the doors and the wheels. Pics promised in next post.

Assuming the thermostat is out or during install; fill the block first. I have gone as far as filling thru a heater hose. A flushing tee in the heater line helps for theipurpose, either fill or burp.

Fill the block first thru the upper hose or the t stat housing

You will want to install a relay for each component as to not overdraw a switch or have heavy gauge wire come thru the cabin. If you are good, you can wire the driving lights to come on with the low or high beam using the headlight circuits to trip the relays. I have done this with a pair of driving lights to come on withthe high beam, tapping into a headlight socket, as the headlights are hot all the time, and ground thru the switch. The relay would be connected as a 'positive ground', and the driving lights connected to the battery normally. You will want a basic understanding of wiring schematics. Otherise, wire the relay to a toggle switch, and wire the driving lights to the to the relay. For the wideband monitor, you will want to tie into the interior lamps to light up, unless you wire it up with the key.

suspect MAF

I was looking at oil today comparing brands and specs. Both DELO and Rotella t6 (5w40) both meet API SM standard, for automotive use, but the mobil1 TDT 5w40 meets API SN, which is the current standard. For the records, mobil 1 products are made from group 4 base stocks, the mobil super syn from group 3, and as far as i know, the delvac 1300 from group 2 stock. Regardless of brand, the moral of the story is that 40 wt oil has more zinc additives and lighter weights within the same brands. And subaru should use 40 wt over 30 wt unless it is dead cold winter time.

I had cleared the knock sensor code and the car cleared emissions after servicing it. I am considering synthetic ATF as i have access to it as i work at an oil change shop. For the price, i can perform the service at work for what it would cost to purchase 18 qts of ATF. We use a T-Tech machine, which is basically a reservoir that dispenses the new fluid, while collecting the old fluid thru the trans cooler lines. The work is done by the trans pump withthe engine at idle in park; nothing is being force fed or back flushed. The old fluid is pretty nasty annyway, and the front diff was too low when i had got the car. I already have mobil1 fluids in the front and rear diff (75w90)as well as the engine oil. (0w40) I'll take into consideration the football on the intake as i have read the nasioc articles in regards to CAI and helmholz resonator with MAF. Also with my consideration for syn ATF, the stuff we have meets merconV, LV, atf+4, dextron 6, and is backward compatible with dextron II/II, d, and e and all prior specs for dextron. I wager the fluid itself may lend to slight improvement in fuel economy, and what i am looking to gain in performace with shifting is it just doing a good job of cleaning out all the shift slolenoids and un-sticking them. Aside from routine fluid service, i wish to hack the TCU and manually override the tc lock, the duty c, and perhaps the shift solenoids if i am good enough. And tap into 'power mode' and retrofit a 1st gen shifter handle

i have rear brake ea82 shoes, springs, and one wheel cylinder. beck arnley. hit me up

I got what was on inventory at the parts store. I have found the magic tool combination to change the plugs, remove the washer tank, etc. Between the 2, i suppose the electrode lasts longer than the platinum or v power, for the sake of 100,000 mi intervals. My preference is based on price, as v-power plugs have always been my staple. I would have considered v power, as compared to bosch platinum or +4, thay don't seem to perform as well. But the NGK 'g-power was listed as OEM, so i went with that. I am glad that i don't find some junk autolite or champion plugs in there, ad that someone before me didn't booger the threads or overtorque the plugs. I was careful to install them snug, but not too tight. These original plugs were just worn out at 132,000 mi from new. The car will need a proper set of plug wires. the left side has the original plug wires, but the right side has some cheap replacements of inferior quality. No misfires, tho, but i anticipate problems in wet weather now that i had the boots off. Next stop is some proper NGK wires for another 100000 mi of service.

I changed the spark plugs now. The original ones were well worn and largely gapped. The original ones were NGK iridium, and i replaced them with 'g power' platinum NGK's. The fuel economy has been averaging 21.8 mpg between the last 2 tanks of fuel with mixed urban driving and A/C use. This time, i am going for 24 mpg by exercising driving habits, new spark plugs. and refraining from A/C as it is 75 degrees in the middle of the dog days of summer here in WI. I drive 19-20 miles per day back and forth to work at 30-45 mph surface streets. I may or may not change the ECTS as the car still seems to hunt for timing (not as bad) and the 2nd and 3rd gear upshifts seem to hang onto the TC lock, and then let go to gain RPM. I have treated the trans with sea foam brand 'trans tune' and anticipate a trans flush once i can afford it with synthetic ATF cam2 (ATF6)

I changed the spark plugs. I could not get one of them as the rubber boot stayed on the plugs. The original plugs were iridium. I got platinum replacements. These plugs look like they have never been changed. But dat gap, tho! The throttle response is much more crispy. Now to dig out the rubber boot and change the 4th plug.

you can swap parts from just about any 1990-1990 legacy and impreza. If there is no rust, it's wrth it.

The forester may be a go for the right price. But with a craigslist ad, with such a long winded description, and the words 'rebuilt engine' translate to me a head gasket slap-n-go, not crank and rods (a factory original block would be better than a random rebuild. The forester does have the 4.44 gear, but making the rear diff work would require swapping guts. the legacy should have a 3.9 gear, for which you can use your ea82 diff. YOu might be able to combo driveshaft parts, but otherwise you will need to shorten the driveshaft 55 mm and hybrid the trans crossmember mounts with xt6 or wrx (which uses the AT mounts on the body. The legacy would be the easier route for comboing random factory parts to keep it alive, and the 2.2 is more than enough for an ea82. You will want to use wheels that are appropriate for the gearing such as 185/70 14 or 205/60 15 to be within 10 percent of your speedo readout. either trans will be 25 splines, just use ea82 turbo 5mt axles and you are good. turbo 3at axles are 23 splines, but a 25 spline DOJ will swap on

I have considered a lighter wood color on the bottom and that is my next project. Of course i know to look for bubbles in the coolant. This motor seems to be in good shape with no temp gauge fluctuations. The coolant does, however make disappearing and reappearing acts in both the radiator and the overflow jug.

Probably the IAC is stuck open or has a loose hose.

the legacy is a better deal. Athough, the car is beat, it is an original car. The forester is a pile. Go with the complete car.

on the zinc spectrum, mobil 0w40 has 1100/1000, mobil delvac super 1200, high mileage 10w30 and 10w40 range from 800 to 1000. the lowest contents were in 5w20 and 5w30 grades. These numbers are approximate. In general, the 40 wt oils have the highst zddp numbers. "full synthetic' doesn't matter as the 40 wts have the proper metal content. the 5 and 0w weights are easier to blend with synthetic.

Try 0w40 oil as it is still a 40 wt oil, but flows better when cold. For the same amount of oil pressure, you have more volume of flow. Factory fil would have been 10w40. Perhaps a 5w40 would be appropriate. The lifters probably just need to be run and flushed out with oil pressure. Replacing the oil pump seal accopmplishes correcting the cavitation of the oil pump seal which causes aeration of the oil. When you take it apart, one of the mickey mouse ears on the seal will likely be a pac man. Yes, this is proper nomenclature for these things.

wood floor

I gave her a good polish and wax, 3 coats, and polished the impreza while i was at it. I got gas today, and the car is still averaging 21.84 mpg across 300 miles per tank, mixed urban driving.

I'll take a better pic of the wood floor as i still have yet to wax the car. So far i polished it twice by hand, the first time with meguiar's medium cut, then meguiare platinum polish. I polished the glass as well. I have california gold carnauba wax to clean her up with. I ran the battery dead while taking the pics, as i had the key in the on position for probably 2 hours when the radio was on before i realized it. For the grille, i would like to swap to regular legacy grille and bumper with projector fogs. Otherwise, i plan to woog grain the bumper insert and perhaps the hood scoop. Still deciding abuut the upper window trim for that authentic wood look. one side is done; the other is not. I may use the lighter oak color wood to do the lower parts of the doors.

My ej25d so far has consumed half a quart of 0w40 in 500 miles. I replaced the PCV. will monitor from there. (the sump has a dent, so my overall capacity ois short by about .2 qt. I believe the rear baffle plate is leaking as well. No frontend leaks at all. We got a customer to switch to 0w40 in a 2005-2008 impreza. I told her to come to this dealer meet next month, and i would be checking her oil if she showed there!