MilesFox

I mounted the carcoal can today. I had to do some odd routing as i broke the nipple off the purge solenoid trying to pull the hose. I used one from a 2nd gen ej22, the connector was different, so i busted off the plastic to expose the terminals to plug it in. The vent line comes to the solenoid, to the canister, and back to manifold vacuum. there is another port that would go the metered vacuum, but this is not present on this engine. I hope this is correct. I used an spfi as an example. I relocated the solenoid from underneath to the side of the manifold for better access. I mounted the xt6 airbox(ea82 mpfi) it turns out my steering lines stole the mounting hole for it, so i used the same rubber piece fom the steering line mount as the airbox mount. I dod not have the right grommets for the rest of the holes, but i salvaged a radiator grommet instead. The airbox is shaped differently, so the intake tube turns the wrong way. I am going to have to cut the tube to fit it to a dummy maf, or go the the auto store and try to find an adapter piece that does not look like poo poo. I could go with a plastic airbox, but i hate plastic parts that are supposed to be metal. I want this to look like a first gen ej22 under the hood. I went and found the bolts to the compressor at scott's place, nad found the ac lines original to that comressor. It turns out the one line had fitted was the high side connected to the low port. I am going to have to hybrid lines, either by tig weld, hydraulic shop that can crimp the fittings, compression fittings, or ugly barb fittings with hose clamps. I will have to find a shop wheo can crimp hoses, but the diameters are different on the low side. I hope a compression fitting will work, and the original line is steel where it will meet aluminum with the fitting. I will need to go to scotts and swap him out for the ac bracket, since the threads are different, and the lower part of the bracket does not match. Scott will not need his bracket as he is going ac-less, and anty bracket will do, just to mount the alternator, so i will trade him the original one to this engine. I got all my fuel lines connected today. I had to make some adapter fittings with brass fitting and worm clamps, but i have oem stainless fittings everywhere but the firewall. I connected the upper radiator hose by sleeving the ea82 hose inside of the ej hose and secureing with a hose clamp. I still have to do the lower hose, and mount the fan, and then onto exhausts. I am trying to contempate a way to do true dual exhaust with some sot of x pattern with 2 cats, maybe some sort of double x pattern to use the downstream o2 effectively. Ideally, this car should have a functioning purge control, and pass emissions with no codes, with everything working as it would from the factory. i will have to make a hole for the MAP sensor, and cap off the IAC port on the intake tube

tom, during the day, the gate is usually open on the far end for the other building, and you should be able to drive in. The rubber lines are still on the car. Uyou will need to unbolt them from the struts, and undo the fitting to the hardlines. You will have access to them if i am not there during the day. I will be there friday doing cam seals on a 98 impreza. Thursday i may or may not be there, depending on if i get called for work. Now is the time i need to get a job. I can do the janitor thing, if i can get a route downtown or near the east side. Let me know if there is a possible position, as i would take it right away, as my odd remodeling work has come to a slowdown. I will probably hate myself a month into it, but i need a solid predictable income. unless i can get car insurance, and register something to drive, i can do jimmy johns delivery all day long, have experience, and know my way around very efficiently

I have run a wire with a sheet screw from the heat shileds to the ground wire on the trans. what do oyu order for to get a 2 wire o2? sounds like a good idea.

You can have the brake hoses. I am not using them. They should be a direct fit. You will need to keep your copper washers and bajo bolts, though. Might i suggest a seized piston? typically occurs if the brake pads are run real low, and the exposed piston flash rusts, and then stiicks to the bore when it is pushed back in. Just an idea. As a general rule, it is a good idea to inspect, disassemble, and lubricate the brake hardware once in a while to prevent these symptoms.

When it comes to subarus, throw the book away. Even old-timers are confused by the peculiar design of the subaru, as it is atypical of anything, and the closest thing would be old volkswagens. Congratulations. Now enjoy hundreds of thousands of miles, if you can keep the rust away.

You can jack up the car right in the middle of the engine crossmember, and place your jackstands either on the swaybar mounts, or on the control arm pivots where they meet the frame. Before i did my repairs, p ipt wooden bpards along the rocker sill behind the pinch weld to spread the weight of the car on the jack stands. Then i removed the crossmember, jacket up by the tow loops, and placed the jack stands under the framerails between the crossmember bolts. This will not be necessary for you unless there is rust to repair on the front framerails. If you are trying to repair non structurral areas, like the hole in the floorboard, you can rivet in metal and use a body sealer. You can get the body sealer in a caulk tube at NAPA

You mean denis? He may have an ecu for it, if that is what happened. good luck with finding the problem. I have been to that farm several times

couldbe the engine temp sensor, or a dirty/malfunctioning idle air control valve. It should show a code for one or the other, as well as misfire codes. The IAC malfunction can be cause by a bad temp sensor

you should have kept a lot of parts if you were junking it, like the wheels, the spfi intake, and other east to remove bits. Too bad apartment complexes have to be so stupid about cars. I can understand you junked it to keep the landlord off your back, but you would have kept the car if you had somewhere to keep it.

I was told that epoxy primer is best for plastic and fiberglass. And also, you will never be able to paint laquer auto paint over acrylic spray paint.

I am considering painting my mirrors body color like the gl-10's would have, and same for the lower portion of the bumpers. I need to find a type of primer to paint onto the plastic. I hear that an epoxy primer is best to not have fish eyes. Same will go for the rx kit, but gold color

turn your crank until the driver side cam dot is facing up. then turn the crank until you get you o deg mark, and drop in the disty. you could just be 180 off, in which case, flip the disty. There are 2 rotations of the crank for one rotation of the cam/disty

I prefer to use the cork gasket with my favorite sealant smoothed out with my finger. On old gaskets, the gasket always sticks to the oil pan, and not the block. Sometimes it can be so cooked, that you need a sanding wheel to get it off. put a film of ultra grey on the pan between the gasket. Ypu mawant the cork gasket there to give the bolts something to squeeze against. But not too tight, as you can split the gasket. It would be nice if someone made a silicone gasket with metal sleeves in the bolt holes

I also have seen around town a 2nfd gen legacy with an impreza rs bumper on the front You would be surprized how much any subaru is dimentionallt similar, that anything should fit enough to locate it into place.

I have seen pictures where someone used the front and rear bumpers, and even the dashboard and steering column from a 93/94 legact into a loyale wagon. It almost looked stock, but you could tell where the bumper was just a little too wide. It looked good though, twin turbo ej22 and all

that is not a bad price. I paid 80 bucks for a bearing once

What are you using to make the hoses so shiny?

if you ere going to junk it, i should have come for it. 600 miles is quite a ways, but i have towed enough cars out of iowa already.

I have done it. skip all the thinner and penetrol(well, maybe a dab of penetrol) I painted my gmc truck with rustoleum from the quart can, and a sray can of the same color for tight areas. I rolled out in 2 coats and was doen, the fnish is a little textured, but uis glossy. use the 4 or 6 inch foam rollers. only pour enough paint into a tray to use at a time. I f you leave the can open, or pour the whole can n the tray, it will startt to get gummy before you can use it all.

I would have to go with an ej rack, since the lines for it come up through a hole in the crossmember that is not present on most ea82's, whereas the xt6 is ea82 like in hookup with the lines that go along the crossmember and tie into the steering shaft. Teh ej comes off the body of the rack and curves around and pokes up through the hole in the crossmember. I was going to try the ea82, and chose which fits best clean look. I played with ac lines. I swapped back to 2000 outback compressor and mount, and was able to fit a 94 impreza upper line on rhis compressor. I had to bend the fitting to fit right, and cut off the firewall mount. I am going to try and use the gl mounting tabs. ^^^^the line is not fastened down all the way in this pic. the original comprssor has 2 wires, one for the clutch, one for the pulser. I am gong to have to figure a way around this, could i just swap the pulser over to this compressor? This part i am pontong to sill have to be spliced somehow. I will need to go back to the yard and get the impreza line that would fit this compressor. The original line is steel, and the impreza line is aluminum. Perhaps i can get the hoses crimped together for the right ends, or have the other one flared for the nut fitting Radiator is in. The hose is an ea82 sleeved inside the ej with a hose clamp. It worked in the brat, and this radiator was in the brat, came from my rx, painted with ZRC, but the fins are beat up on the fan side. ej22e alternator and p/s pump, with metal cover and oldschool genuine subaru belt(junkyard pull-off) I have a gates belt from the yard somewhere, it is new. Front wheels on Turbo legacy rims I cannot fit my finger between the strut and the tire

that is awesome:banana:

switch the positive lead to the other hole if yours is like that, or turn the dial to the amps. You connect it between the battey cable and the battery post in between. The meter will be fused, so if you do this with everything on at the same time you might blow it. The oil pressure wire may be loose, it comes down the font of the motor along the dipstick tube, from the intake harness. Otherwise, it is normal for the oil pressure to read near zero during idle, and operate towards the 40 psi mark. the poor idle at temp would be clue to the engine temp sensor. on spfi, this is the one with 2 wires on the thermostat housing. On mpfi turbo, it is on the back of the intake near the turbo the puttering sound is probably an exhaust gasket. the best cure for that is new studs, if the old ones come out with the nuts when changing the gasket.

I may be going with an ea82 steering line as i forgot the hardline is removable from the ea82 pump to swap onto the ej pump

you can pre-emptively spray the inside of the disty cap and spark plug boots with wd 40. Let the engine warm up, and leave it run while spraying down the engine. Try not to concentrate the spray on any seals to prevent water intrusion.

Ineed a picture of an spfi or mpfi fuel filter and mount for a GL I also need a pic of an AC compressor for an xt turbo and i woudl like pics of various AC pumps for ej22's all generations thanx!