MilesFox

come to think of it, the hard line comes of the pump side that has the female fitting. I got you now. I shoudl dry that and see if it fits better than the xt.

Brass marine terminals with impreza rubber piece and the car's original bettery cables. The PCV hoses from the junkyard are just too short, since the pcv fittong on the valve covers moved from the rear to the center. I will have to make a splice on both sides There is no IAC on this engine Heater hoses fom impreza and legacy, they are both the same hose from the same side of the heater core on both donor cars. They fit better tucked this way, i may cut one short by half an inch to make the tuck better. I would like to re-use the original foam from the gl hoses around the starter

the fuel is supplied before the injector, and the FPR is on the return side. Perhaps you have the hoses backwards. The feed hose is the top one coming form the filter.

I connected the xt6 steering lines to the rack and the ej pump. The ea82 lines do not fit the ej pump. the pump i am using is form an ej22e. I had to swap the bracket as the hole spacing was narrower. I was clever to use the strut tower mounting point from the xt6 on the framerail of the ea82 body to an existing threaded hole. The line will fit better if i use a straight hose or turn it differently I forgot what bolt went here, but it will line up. I have buckets of bolts, if this thing has a bushing or what not. Basket o goodies form a 93 legacy and an 94 impreza at the junkyard. I kept a lot of clamps, factory zip ties, and mounting brackets to the MPFI cover, fuel filter hoses and lines, pcv, intake boot hoses, MAF and AC lines. All of the parts are from the 93 legacy, with one heater hose from the impreza, and its ac lines The fat side of the line fits on the firewall, and the mounting bracket is mostly compatible(pitch bar in the way) if i use the right compressor. Fuel filter mounted. Xt6 filter with legacy bracket. I used the hole where the little wire retainer is near the fuel line bracket. I was able to re-use the original mount for the carb lines on the top of the strut tower.The legacy mount would be vertical on the firewall, but there are no holes. horizontal was an option, but too all up on the oolant jug. The filter should be in the area whre it is. I wish i had a GL fuel pump mount for spfi or mpfi, since this one was carb. I will have to adapt some diameters of hose, and figure out the purce circuit and charcoal canister, since i would like to keep it for original looks, and have it function, since the engine was designed with charcoal can under the trunk. I used the damper as it came off the xt6, and i am using the xt6 pump. It made a good splice using a mix of original hose and legacy hose. The legacy hose says "SUBARU" all along the length.

I ended up using the xt6 steering lines since it has the right fitting for the ej pump. Vice versa of all of this, i bet you could run the legacy hoses with legacy rack with the cybrid pump and its fluid. The hardlines would be bent differently on the legacy, but the fittings would work with the cybrid pump, whereas an EA82 steering line would not connect the same(using the proper mounting location on the crossmember)

Search EA82 Timing belt for rference. The distributor should point to the master cylinder. the timing belt is set to a center mark, and not to the 0DEG BTDC mark. The fuel pump is triggered by a pulse from the disty. MAke sure that it is plugged in, and the ECU is active.

The timing will be set at 20 deg btdc. To make the timing static(consucive to unpluging the vacuum advance) you plug in the green test connectors at the ECu under the rear decklid between the speakers. This will keep the timing from floating around so you can set it with a strobe. The 3 marks on the flywheel are for the timing belts. If you follow the timing belt rotations, you ill know when you are on the exhaust or compression storke to set your distributor. Which books do you have? search "ea82 timing belt" and that will get you in the right direction The rotor will be pinting at the master cylinder. The rotation is clockwise 1-3-2-4. #1 cylinder is on the left front if you are looking at the engine. #3 behind it, #2 at the right front, and #4 near the distributor. If you have pulled the disty, tou may feel 'in between' notches for the gear to get the rotor just right. The rotor points at the master ylinder just past the screw/clip for the cap. Sonme times an aftermarket cap may be marked wrong for the cylinder numbers, since they cross-reference with isuzus and other 80's oddities. When the engine is at TDC for #1 cylinder, the dots on the cam pulley on the left side of the engine will be pointing at the hard edge of the valve cover just above "SUBARU", and the driver side will be pointing opposite at the same angle.

wheel bearings? the car turns more quickly one way, but feels delayed reaction the other way.

These are infacr ea82 headlights, but for the DL trim models. The bezels and marker lites are specific to ea82 dl, and the wiring for the lights will have to be spliced in for the quad light setup. Here is a trick: the headlight buckets themselves behind the bezels are ea81 and ea82 the same. you can source the buckets and bulbs from an ea81, and then ask someone on the forums for a set of DL bezels, unless you actually find a DL for parts. someone may want to convert the DL to GL lights, leaving take-offs. I, myself, am looking to do DL headlights on my 86 3door runabout wiht yellow tint lights

There would almost be as much work in salvaging these parts as complete stampings cutting and drilling out the spot welds in the right place, and you would have to gut the interior to get to the other seams to take off whole stampings. someone should just engineer replacement panels for these. You can get cab corners and rocker sills all day long for a 68 gmc, just build a whole truckj from the catalog justabout, but good luck if anyone ever made so little as a dress up item for these old soobs

i still have the cybrid pump and the lines to it, less the rack. I need to put it in a box and make it ready to ship. I am not in a position to take anyone's money until it has a shipping label. My shop space is flipped upside down, and i am knee deep in my project. Soon i will inventory and box up all my items for sale, and list them all at once. I still got it for you, just let me round it up

Since you got a swaybar mount hanging loose, instead of letting it fall off, put it in an envelope and sent it to me, as i need one:grin:

I can do it. Can'y tell yu how much it will be, or if i ever will have time, but i did the same repairs on my 86 3door, although not as severe. There are 3 stampings of metal. One, the channel that contains the captive nut. 2nd, sheetmetal to tie that into the floor. and 3rd layer surrounds the whole piece making the framerail. I repaired mine with about 5 bucks of random angle iron and flat stock, and cutoff sheetmetal from an 89 xt6. search "runabout' and you will find my build thread as an example of what is involved.

yup, you can do it. I did so with a sppray paint cap ofer the output shaft taped up with a rubber glove. Also did the same on a full time rx trans with teh diff lock.

You can leave the tcu behind. you might get codes on the at/oil temp light on the console. The MT does not have a trans control unit. You might be able to just eliminate the tcu, but it's not necessary.

use the flywheel and bolts on your donor engie. there is no transfer case on these cars, as the 4wd is contained in the same housing as the whole trans, it is not a separate piece. you will want all the mounts that go to the donor trans, and all the bolts, and it will bolt to the same locations on the receiving car

If you want it to be a time bomb, just ignore it. Otherwise, keep the cooling system happy(non corroded radiator, fresh/regular coolant change, non leaky water pump , put fresh hoses on the turbo and the little hoses on the intake) and it will be as realiable as any other so long as you dont go cranking on the boost and beating it into submission. any other mantenance points will be the same as any other ea82 regarding engine seals and timing belts, etc

there is a difference between automatic and manual for the driveshaft. The rear part of the shaft is the same, and the diff/axles bolt in the same. You will want to read up which year/trans has the right gear ratios for your car for the rear diff

My bad. i thought i was seeing door mounted mirrors. My buddy has an 85 wgon, and i was trippen on that. I have an 86. I am a fan of the pre 88 and the 87.5 models. Nice thing about this particualr year, is there are defroster vents on the b pillar for the side windows. Clever! they did away with these in 87, but they are retrofitable. Still, this is a sweet ride that deserves some preservation. Detail under the hood and park it at cherry hill !

all of the bolt atterns will be the same. anything you will need you will have from the donor car. you willneed to swap the rear diff along with the trans, inless they are the same final gear als the old trans. its pretty simple and stright forward. the only thing you will 'needn' is maybe new seals as you have the option to do them while you are at it. Once you get under the car, you will find it's simpler than you imagine.

Total museum piece. First ever ea82 for the year, in tis best trim. My opinions say to restore it as there are few original examples like this, and 1985 is the one year exception with the door mounted mirrors, first issue!

you get good mileage. I have gotten 18 with the same cars. Skinny tires aired up all the way, aerodynamic mods. that is all you have left to do with what you got.

What size punch are you using. If it's too skinnym it will go inside thepin and jam it up. try to feel for an edge and hit on that

More work toay, i punched a hole through the firewall. my hole is juat a tad larger than the grommet. The harness runs behind the heater box and to the steering column. I used a hole saw, and then dremel cutoff wheels I anstalled the xt6 axles, and tightened down all the suspenson bolts. I am going to have to use the ej22e bracketry for th power steering, ac, and use its alt to work with the existing ps pump and ac pump that i have. I am swapping to ej22e alternator since i have the wiring plugs for it.

A proper ea82 brat will have the rump roast and top end of a 3door grafted to a wagon body, with the 3door b pillar and side sheet metal, the rear quarter cut out and the c pillar moved forward. One could make a 2 door sedan if they romoved the tailgate from a 3door and grafted in a sedan c pillar, decklid and back window. I dream of these things...