MilesFox

sweet. Just wanted to confirm. I already installed the rack

Did you run a larger fuel line? Where does that hole come through behind the firewall? I like the ecu mounted to the steering column. I had my flywheel resurface and partially slotted by a machinist, just to find out that the supplied flywheel was an ea82 although it was mated to a 4spd. So i went with the pre-slotted ea82. I did a little more grinding fter the machinist with a dremel and cutting bit, and stone bit. Too tedious. I had dropped the transission since the flywheel was not ready, and bolted on the vacuum diaphragm. I test fitted the motor with no trans to see clearances. The motor mount holes are the same width on the crossmember. The alternator wasall up on the core support. Now the motor and trans are installed.. the motor mount studs are farther back than the holes, as i was expecting. I will have to drill a hole about 1/4 inch back, or just slot it. There was this thingee leftover from the brat for the alternatpr. There is also an alternator harness cut-off from a junkyard motor. I will be using a power steering pump and mpfi cover from an ej22e. I would like to not use the dildoey big airbox on this ingeine, but insted the old school tube to a steel airbox on the fender. I will have to figure out a MAF delete without it looking jank. I will have to make a hole for the MAP sensor up near the throttle body. I will have to use old school pcv hoses. The orientation af the brake booster hose is different, so no gl or xt6 hoe. A legacy hose may fit. Also no go with either heater hoses. I am hoping legacy hoses will fit. I wish to keep the AC, the xt6 pump is way different, the GL pump looks like it will fit on the ej bracket, but wrong pulley. The legacy compressor has the wrong fittings. I wonder if a 4cyl xt would work, same compressor with flat belt pulley. I would need legacy ac lines to see of they fit the gl side. I am hoping an ea82 power steering line fits the ej pump Tomorrow i will fit the radiator, wioer motor, and tape up the ac relay harness and mount it, plug all of it in, and figure out which parts of the original harness i need for the oil and temp sensors, tach, etc. I may go as far as installing the dash, but i also want to swap in a digi dash. I am hoping an 87 gl10 dash harness plugs into the car on both ends and operates. This may give me the option for cruise control, if i want to lose the brown steering wheel

maybe the presure olate is shot, or the fok popped off its little ball socket

just to note a reference, a 98 legacy tack is the same witdth as an xt6, which would be the same width ans an ea82. The difference may just be the inner tie rods.

If we have spark and the belts are turning, we will want to check to make sure the timing is correct. ITs possible someone made the repair and installed thebelts in the wrong order. A mis-aligned belt will give you poor compession readings. I recommend you search 'ea82 timing belt' and follow the belt rotation sequences to make sure this is not the problem. also search youtube for 'art of subaru maintenance' episode #8

could be crank or cam sensors. Also could be CTS related.

Another day's work. I cleaned and installed the steering rack. Tighened up the swaybar bolts. I chopped the xt brake booster to fit the 3door, cut the rod to the pedal short and re-welded it. There is a turnable adjustment, which i need to do bto match the pedal travel befoe bolting in the pedal assembly. I cleaned and detailed the master cylinder and hill holder. I washed out the reservoir, wire wheeled the brackets, and clearcoated them and all the brake lines. They are now installed. I also installed a NEW xt6 clutch cable. I have to remove the clutch pedal to swap it. The FWD cable is physically different on the fork side, shorter thread and different nugget. I snapped down the wire harness along the core support, and installed the dryer side of the AC lines. I used some polish compounds on the aluminum, and clearcoated. I painted the dryer chassis black, and wire wheeled the charcoal can bracket and clearcoated. I got my trans seals to change them, and find the rest of the shifter assembly bracket inside the car, as it is xt specific with more complicated mounting. I dropped off my flywheels to a machinist to match the holes, and to cut a new surface. They should be ready by noon. Tomorrow i want to install the lutch cabel and pedal assembly, and steering column to the rack. This would be easiest before the motor goes in. I can go get my flywheel from the machinist and bolt in the motor, but i still may need to drill holes in the crossmember for the engine mounts, or maybe swap the xt6 mounts, but they are nasty. I would like to retrofit the front dogbone on the xt6 motor to the gl body and the ej22. I am still trying to decide where i should cut a hole for the harness grommet, as it used an existing hole on the brat, but the gl has no hole on the firewall, and its harness goes behind the strut tower. Plus, the ej computer mounts in the passenger footwell, right where my floor is rsted out. I would like to mount it to the steering column, and bring the harness in from the grommet on the driver side near the wiper motor. I may be forced to mount hte ECU behid the glovebox somewhere, so i would have to cut a hole for the grommet somewhere on the firewall, most likely master cylinder and hill holder Xt pedal set vs GL pedal set. The XT is longer. I had to cut and shorten the xt6 brake booster to work with the gl pedal box. Galvanize in a can. I was too lazt to mess with por 15, as it is best used when you have a whole line of parts ready to paint. This part of the brake booster was rusty. The xt6 brake booster is deeper than the GL Hood latch. Painted with ZRC as it was bare metal with surface rust and white corrosion. I wire wheeled it, ZRC, then clearcoat. Lube with white lithium grease. Wire wheel and clearcoat the bolts and screws Brake booster painted chassis black, and hill holder loosely installed XT6 steering rack and lines installed. I went with the xt6 rack for quiker steering(i would assume) and hoping it will be good with ATF with a regular belt driven pump. Cluth pedal has to come off to change cable

I vote for water pump, as this is typical symptom, the impeller corrodes and loses efficiency. The water pump will leak when the bearing goes bad. IT's best to change the water pump and replace the timing belt also(if it has not been done recently. What willhappen is the water pump will drag or seize, causing the timing belt to melt or break. Take confidence in that your motor is non-interference, which means if the belt lets go, there is no damage, just install a new timing belt. The first generation legacies are more rubust than the later model engines, as the syptoms associated with later model head gaskets is related to later model engines, with MLS gaskets, whereas the first generation ej22e has composit head gaskets, like the older subarus always had, and do not fail in the same manner as later model engines. So long as you have not cooked your motor, do the water pump and see if it improves. If further diagnosis puts you into a head gasket repair, at least you have new WP and TB. So long as doing the repairs are worth your investment.

what year is your car> if its carbureted 85-87, you can install the 2nd battery under the hood where the FI airbox would be. You willneed to make a little shelf for it, though, and cut off the part that holds the ac dryer and the charcoal canister.

If it's rusty you will want to tool, as the punch will just damage the retainer ring if it does not come off in the first few attempts. But, if you swap in a better piece, you can service that one if the donor part is less rusty. I found the pin socket for 30 bucks online. Give or take the investment of 30 bucks, but its worth it if you use it often enough. But swapping in a control arm may just be cheaper than the tool plus new bearings and seals. do what comes most available to you

yes, it will be the lowest bolt on the caliper itself, gong throug the 'caliper bracket' as its called. It shouldhave a 12 or 14mm head, unbilt it and take it out. The caliper will swing up. you may have to persuade it with a screwdriver. once the caliper swings clear of the rotor, it will slide off the top pin. use a brake parts cleaner to clean off the bolts. It may be rusty and gummy, a green scotch brite pad will scuff throught it without scratching. put some grease in the boots, on the slide pins, and on the boot around the piston.

the headlight buckets themselves are the same for an ea82 dl and ea81. However, the bezels are entirely different

Fix up the wagon as a daily, until you come up with an ej22 and a 5spd for the brat. that, or just swap the ea82 motor and trans in the brat for now, and then swpa ej22 when you find one. perhaps you can fix the wagon, and sell or trade for a 5mt legacy or impreza to swao into the brat, with tans. You will have to hybrid an axle to do that. the simplest thing to do is swap the ea82 trans into the brat to be compatible with the axles, and then contemplate an EJ

Taking a better look at the picture, i can imagine the oil coming form the shaft seal. I can see that you have done the mating surface seal, but if its the old shaft seal, it can be leaking. You can take off the pulley by removing the nut with the belt still on, then remove the pulley, and do the seal. You can do this without removing the pump. You will undo the driver side timing belt. Install the pulley and tighten the bolt after the timing belt is installed. The only compromise is removing the timing belt, but that is why its recommended to just ditch the inner and outer covers.

Too bad for winter road salts, and too bad for throw-away planned obslolesence. Really, keeping the salt off the car is the best defense. I worked at u-haul installing hitches, and there would be rust on 3-5 year old cars, and 10-15 year old were too rusty to get bolts out.

I shoud have a real DL grille laying around, but I am looking for DL lights myself, but with a 3door grille. If i find it i'll post here

Where is morris ville? Sounds like a rust belt car. Your fuel leak may just be the fill tube, just behind the rear tire under a cover. The cover traps dirt and salts causing rust through

IF you want to inspect the parts and take off the wheel, you can take off the caliper by removing the lower bolt, swing it up, and slide it off. The slide pins may be rusty, causing the caliper to hang up. If you can get it apart, clean it, and use syl-glide lube from napa, this would be best for routine overall maintenance seasonally(wisconsin rust belt!) According to your maintenance history and miles, it could be due for a wheel bearing. typical steering wheel vibrations could be the following in this order: loose lugnuts, possible if you ahd the wheel off recently bad belt in tire/imbalance, rotate the tire to the other side and see if the vibration moves with it Loose ball joint, wheel can wobble at highway speed, causing a shimmy and tire wear. Typically, a bad ball joint will rattle and clunk over bumps and potholes Bad inner axle DOJ (double offset joint) will usually occur either during acceleration, or deceleration, and will go away at the trasnsiton from either way. Wheel bearing, you will have a rumble sound that may go away when changing a lane in one direction, but occur the other way. Also, the steering will feel loser one direction than the other, sort of a delay, like a big ol truck but one direction. The rotor can rub against the caliper bracket if it's bad enough, and the pads can be worn at a slant. This can cause the caliper to work only the piston side and not slide for equal clamping, and can therfore seize, compounded by winter road salts and corrosion. Sometimes jacking up the car and wiggleing the tire will be elusive to subaru wheel bearings. I would recommend taking up the cailper and inspecting and lubing the slide pins, and see if it improves

You could do a pretty stealth install using the smuggler's trunk, but you wouldn't want to go bumpin' somewhere you don't want anyone to know what you got. It's up to you to decide which is harder to replace: a stereo and some speakers original subaru glass Regardless, a dual battery setup would be pretty awesome. The car could jumpstart itself

Which side is positive and negative on the coil? the yellow wires should be negative, and the black w/white stripe should be positive. what is the green wire? The transistor doohickee is most likely referring to an spfi coil with optical disty

I am swapping my 3door to 5 lug, and i have the xt6 rack with lines that fit the car like it would, and i also have a spare rack that cam with a 98 legacy outback9unknown origin) that takes advantage of the 2n hole in the xt6 crossmember that would otherwise have to be cut out on the regualr ea82 crossmember. The legacy rack will fit, if i have th right ej22 lines anf pump to fit on a ej222 and xt6 crossmember. But i am thinking that the xt6 rack has a quicker steering ratio. So, my preference would be the xt6 for fit, and performance, so that leads me to ask if ATF is ok in the rack itself instead of cybrid gold fluid. I had mentioned this before, but i want to ask anyone that has either used an xt6 rack in a swap, or has run ATF n an xt6 cybrid steering to know if it works or not, or what to expect. Otherwise, i could consider an impreza rack, but the xt6 or legacy stuff is what i have to put my car together and drive.

that should be a 3.9 gear if the donor is a 5mt for 1992 legacy. to defeat the neutral safety, just jump the 2 largest wires in the center of the connector for the A/T shifter assembly in the console. The rest would be making the reverse lights work, on the harness of the trans itself. I hope you gpt the bolts that go with the trans mount, as they replae a shorter bolt on the radius rod plate. Since the mount is in a different location, you remove one of the original bolts, and substitute the longer bolt whre the mount goes in place of the original bolt. hold on, i was thinking of ea82 to ea82 swap. You may need an ea82 trans crossmember with bolts in plae of the lego mount. I am not sure on this, but this is what i specilate. You may have to hybrid the legacy trans mount to fit at all points

I had an ea81 with 2 batteries. I discovered that if i cut out the jack mount, i could fit a battery there as it would be in an ea81 turbo. I used an ea82 battery cable to make that my main battery, and connected a wire from the pos terminal to the back of the alternator. Then on the original side, i kept the termonals that connected the positive to the fuse links, and the negative to e ody, without the starter cables. This worked for double reserve, but it stressed the alternator and gave voltage spikes. I could have had a weak alt, or weak batterites. You can mount them this way, i would recommend a dual purpose marine/starting battery for this if you run both. Do you need the amps while running, or when the car is off? If you want battery for your stereo when the car is not running, use a battery isolator, and run the starting battery for the car, and use a deep cell marine/rv battery for the amp. The battery isilator will let the 2nd battery charge with the alt when the car is running, but will isolate the starting battery when the car is off, so if you run the deep cell down with the stero, you still have a fresh starting battery. A regular car battery is designed to put out a lot of amps for a short time. It is not designed to run all the way dead, or 'deep cycle' as it will sulfate and ruin the lead plates. The deep cycle battery is designed to put out a lower amperage fro a longer time. This is ideal for your stereo to run when the car is off, and it draws nowhere near as many amps as the starter. If you are worried about your speakers sucking the battery dry when the car is running, dim lights, etc, you will want a bigger alternator. Stock amp is 30 amps. You can fit a 60 amp nissan maxima alt in there since it is the same manufacture. AYou can use an xt6 alt for 90 amps if you swap pulleys. Some folk have converted to 100 amp gmc alternators

Your leak may very well be the oil filter. And if its tight, too tight, it can squish the rubber seal past its mating surface. It probably was not a good fit to begin with, and frankly, i would not be the first to tell you that the fram filter is the worst choice. Go with a napa 1361, napa silver 21361, or a wix 51361, as all of these filters are manufactured by WIX, which is a top brand. Aside from horror stories on fram..... The other piece is the purge control solenoid. Funny how it is actually working, since every ea82 i had always threw the code for it and perpetual check engine lite, although its function is arbitrary, and was sort of an engineering afterthought ot retrofit to meet specs for the USDM requirements. This part controls the venting from the gas tank to the charcoal canister and to the intake to suck off hydrocarbons. If this part fails, you can simply cap off the charcoal can on the hose that pulls vacuum. Or you can trick the ecu with a resistor to think its present to not trip the check engine lite. How you describe it seems to be normal function. I am not too familiar with working ones. Be careful not to break off the nipples for the vac lines, or the little filter thing on the back, as it is easy to do if you just bump into it while doing other things. The other one farther back is for the EGR. They both work the same, but one is straight through, and the other one has a 90 angle for the lines

You have a whole trailing arm there instead of a knuckle. Yes, you can do this. Otherwise, you need the right pin socket to service it yourself. Swapping the trailing arm is easier, proviided you have fleets of spare parts available to change out, as the net one swapped in could fail unexpectedly. But, if you do it this way, you can snag a trailing arm with disc brakes and swaybar, get the pair, and bolt them in as an upgrade for the same cost/work