MilesFox

My preference has been 185 70 for 4wd subarus with 3.9 gear. Sometimes the door sill is stapped with 165 tires in the vin plate. As long as you can find them, go with who has them and the best price. I already ran into a no 185 tire in stock, or buying the last pair

I contest that it costs 2 stacks to drive this car. I have similar body rust, althoughnone on the inside of the rocker, butt I got about 100 bucks in material to fix the framerail, and half the cost was primer and undercoating. The best investment is a quart of por15. I treated rust with a knotted wire wheelon an angle grinder, and a wire brush. I used some naval jelly here and there. Your efforts remind me of when I had a few ea81 back in the day. You seem toknow what you are doing well, and have access to the equipment to do it. They say you can bring one from out west. Bt then it will rust also. T ere is an art to knowing where these cars rust out by seeing enough examples. You can presrve specific areas to prevent rut to begin withwashing off road salts is the best defense

It would bolt in with a turbo engine crossmember. This allows for clearance of the up-pipe. An existing crossmember can be modified with competent fabrication skills. The best thing to do is swap a harness with the engine, and have a donor car for any and all parts you will need. Mechanically it's bolt in, but there are a few differences with combinations of parts between the turbo and non turbo. There is a difference in engine harnesses between 90-91 and 92/3-94 models

Yeah, right at the part where it curves up, and where the radius rod mount inside bolt is. I cut off layers of steel to expose the inside, and welded in layers as they were stamped, about 3 layers of metal. It was sort of exploratory surgery reverse engineerng. It was tedious work. I used a 4 1/2 angle grinder with metal disce, a grinding disc, and a flepper sanding disc. I welded with a harbor freight 100 dollar flux core unit using .035 tips and wire. I used zinc infused weldable primer on my new metal. I used part of a furnace cover of some sort and home depot 26 ga steel. The home depot was crap, the furnace metal was good, and part of an xt6 rear quarter panel was best. The metal i used was soft and bent easy, cold rolled instead of stiff like hot rolled. Then i covered with napa stone guard black, and chassis black paint to make it all one color.\ with the rest of the undercoating. here is my build thread highlighting my conquest of RUST http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119353&highlight=runabout

That is not always an option, or there are only so many to get ahold of from what's available. In these parts(indiana, ohio) There were not many subarus to begin with in their day, not as many sold, and not many left. A rusty subaru is better than no subaru. And not to suggest that someone out west would need a car like this, but rather they have never seen such degree of rust, as it does not occur as severely with the lack of winter weather and road salts.

What happens is water and road salts get behind the stamping that contains the shock, and rusts the well out from behind. Dam that midwest rust! I lucked out on my 3door, but i had to cut out and replace the framerails under the font of the car. I am happy to see that somone would make these repairs, as the general consensus here would not comprehend that kind of rust(lots of western folks) Keep us updated on what you do and how you do it, and many more happy miles to you for your efforts! Whereat in ohio are you? I am native to northeast indiana myself.

the 4wd switch is on the trans, but the lo range switch is on the shifter itself. If you take off the consloe and boot, you should see it. It's a contact switch

The length difference is the bumper beam and the bumper slin. Everything underneath is the same thru 94, with the core support, headlight buckets, fender bolt holes, etc

Tom and i used a log chain to jump the starter in a car with no key.

a donor of the same body generation should be a direct fit

oreilley generic battery, standard size. Maybe one day i will drop the coin on an optima dual purpose battery. If i was really a stickler for numbers-matching resto, it should have an interstate battery as it came form the factory I forgot to mention i used polishing compound to clean the overflow jug, the vacuum canister, and i clearcoated the cansiter bracket and the relay bank brackat after washing them in soap and water, to retain thir natural color, since most of the green coating and the yellow plating was still new looking.

Take a 3 ft piece of wire and jump the small tab on the starter from the battery. This way you can crank the motor from under the hood and watch everything if the belt stripped teeth, it will hang up at the crank sprocket and not turn with the crank

Too late, i already installed the trans. I still have to do seals, and i am missing one of the roll pins for the shifter. It may come back out one day. I will consider all the advice for the engine manifold and other bolt-on bits.

underhood looked better after clear by wiping the surfaces with a rag and a little polishing compound. I got the trans crossmember together, double mounts! It's a tight fit, and the rubber wants to tear out. I would like to cram some urethane windo-weld in there. Trans in car, suspended by pitch stopper. If you ever notice on your ccars, you can jack up the trans to reove the engine, the pitch stopper is slotted to hold the trans at that angle without the jack, or to go up without removing it. crossmember holes drilled. This is the xt6 crossmember. There are some 'A' stampings here and there on this piece. The hole i needed to drill was exactly where a spot weld was. The car is now up on jackstands where it was once a rust hole Struts in, need new ball joints. Napa stone guard and black chassis paint over it and the existing rubber undercoat to make it all one color Waring looms run back through, I washed the sheaths, and need to re-tape a few spots. I am going to let it hang loose until more stuff is installed, so i dont have wires in the way of bumper bolts and ac lines, and until i get some dielectric grease swaybar and control arms, radius rods installed. Awaiting steering rack hoses loosely installed, pending motor install, to see what matches All you see is one day's work

YOur guy at oreilleys doenst know what he is looking at, or doesnt know what you are telling him, or is looking at a listing for an automatic trans.

The fuel pump will not operate withougt a pulse from the disty. Otherwise, you should have flow if you manually trip the fuel pump. Try testing for flow by removing the line before the filter. Maybe the filter is junk.

Sorry, i misread. I was thinking SPFI. SPFI and turbo do 20 deg, turbo with mechanical disty do 25, and carbs do 8

I walked 7 miles and sat on my car for a month before bothering to remove the disty cap and see if the rotor turned. What i tohought i was procrastinating was a broken timing belt, was in fact a loose set screw for the rotor. check the simplest. Take off the disty cap and watch the rotor turn. It's too simple, and everyone with an ea82 should know to check this first.

the trans is not designed to shift into first while rolling. bad driving habit with subarus. Driving like this will affect the 3rd gear synchro, eventually. check the coolant temp sensor, the one on the thermostat housing with 2 wires and a green plug. this may be your fuel ecomomy issue. also, timing should be set at 20 deg btdc

does your trailer harness have the converter box for 3 into 2 wiring? You will need one with the turn lenses being separate than the brake lens, to combine them ot the trailer light. Could be a ground issue.

Check that the rotor is turning

6 passenger vehicle. Who needs a tribeca(subaru mini-van)

I would start at checking all the fuses one more time. Either pull them all out and get a good look, or poke them with a test lite. any fuse that lights up on one side, but not the other, is bad. You might be able to swap out the fuel pump relay with one of the AC ones under the hood on the passenger firewall

hook the fan up where it goes to. Unplug the thermoswitch from the radiator and jumper the wires. Fan will be on with key. make a switch, and you can override the thermoswitch, and the fan will come on if you forget to turn it on, and turn off with the key if you forget to turn it off. non working fans will be the thermoswitch, even i there is some hollbilly ig wire install to replace what would be a working curcuit

even if the fuel pump was bad, the relay should be kicking off and on. If there is no action of the relay, then that or its wiring/fuse would be the problem. You should hear it click any time you turn the key to the run pos, and any time the engine is cranking. You can actually turn the key just before the starter, but past run, to trip the relay.