MilesFox

the motor is worth 300 as a runner, but low oil, you may as well find the next one with a blown HG or broken timing belt. Offer him 100 bucks, and that is not a lowball, considering he is trying to sell an oil starved engine in the most saturated market for these things. I got a comlete runner with spare parts for 200. The trans is worth a flip, but if you dont sell it, you are out of money whle sitting on a trans you cant sell, and a motor that is no good. Hold out, because as soon as you drop the coin on this, something better AND cheaper will turn up for 300 you could source a complete donor car

To test the fuel pump, there are a pair of green connectors near the ECU. Plug these in and the fuel pump will cycle off and on. The relay is above the ecu on a bracket on the steering column, you willhear it clicking. If no click, swap the realy or check the fuse. The relay is a brown one right next to the green(ign) relay)

If that is the case, you could repair it by just looking at it, and maybe poking it with a stick.

OH man, do i not get tired of seeing ea82 timing belts. yummy you know, that is the same blt i broke on one of my first soobs. You should be able to get it off. I would try to drill just a little bit to smooth down the broken end of the bolt, and slide it off. LEave enough of the bolt to grab onto.

You can try to stick them back on with double side tape or 3m super wetherstrip adhesive. 1985-86 models has them glued on, and 87 up went to clips. So if you remove it, you have the little holes, where an 86 door would be clean.

yo terry. If that is the case, i have the parts leftover from my xt partout yet.

I painted the clear coat under the hood. I am not as pleased. I got a foggy spot where it was too thick. Overall more shiy, but somewhat textured. No one will notice with a motor in there! I por-ed an airbox from an xt6, and the radiator condensor. Also the crossmember. These parts get chassis black tomorrow, and once the paint dries, onto the shop for install. the extra moistness on the condensor is water, not paint. This gets chassis black to even out the color Clearcoated trans, after a scrub with engine gunk and dish soap. This is awaiting seals from napa before install.

Take off the distributor cap. Make sure the rotor is turning while cranking. If it is not, the car was parked 3 years ago from a broken timing bely. Easy fix, all the instructions would be found by searching. your car has an ea82 engine, for reference

problems 1,2, and 4 would be similar to wheel bearing symptoms

My transmission is laying in the yard all chalky looking. I found some duplicolor clear coat and gave it a shot. It took away the powdery white look, and evened out the color of the metal. It did darken it thoug, but is still natural looking, and looks clean in the not covered in dirt and grease sense. This was a what-the-hey attempt. The can i sed was borrowed, so i might just go get another can and give it a healthy 2nd coat and call it done.

Feather it down with some sand paper what you can. and then re- spray with a blend pattern over where the tape was, wet sand again. If you clearcoat, you can blend that in as well, then polish

This is referring to the DL trim line, with 4 individual headlights, and also the same headlight bucket ans an ea81. The difference in the amber part of the marker lite is from 1986-87 for all amber, and 87 up for amber insert. This is also true for the bumpers, 85-86 having the turn signals flush mount, and 87 up having recessed turn lenses

Plug in the green connectors to cycle the pump. You should hear the realy clicking on and off when the key is in run position. The relay is located above the ecu on a clip on the steering column. The brown relay.

gary, he is referring to the timing mark specific to xt's, its a little plate that bolts near the crank pulley. I had this happen once, and i was so brave to weld on a longer bolt, grind it down, and use it as a stud. If you remove the crank pulley, you can remove the timing belt cover for better clearance. That, or just break off that tab from the belt covers so you can do this work without removing them. My opinion will tell you to remove all the covers, and this makes a belt change go down in 20 minutes vs 2 hours the next time. If you can get the pump off, try a vice grip, heat, and pb blaster. the trick with little bolts is for one, to not over torque them, hand snug and 1/8 turn with a 1/4" drive ratchet will do, and when removing them, the trick is to not twist the bolt faster than it can unscrew. SLOW EVEN TORQUE will get them out

NAPA stone guard black. Be prepared to spend almost 15 bucks per can. Best defense for winter road salts without going to zeibart

There is a hatch with 6 lugs in Waukesha, but dude wants 4-6 g's for it. Surprisingly, on the NADA listing for vintage subaru, it commands that sort of price. But dude must be digging for gold. This same car was offered to me for 500 bucks a few years ago. It is a 4wd 4spd ea81

Holy rusty metal, Batman! Best thing to do here is to replace the whole subcradle to repair it properly. This is providin you and or the dealer has a source for this part, either from a wreck or junkyard. But in the end, with the finding of the part, and the labor involved, you may as well push to get your money back, or make the dealer eat all of this. That is too bad. This is what happens when a car is not washed at all ever in the winter time. I wish certain car manufacturers would make a winter package option that would include extra underbody coating and stainless hardware and lines, but no one does. and est coast rust can be as bad if not worse than midwest rust, compounded by salt in the air from the ocean, and equal-to of not more snowfall. Based on my experience installing hitches at u-haul, wisconsin native cars are half rusted out at 10 years ol, and new cars will start showing rust on the seams in 3 years, and start rusting through at 5 years old.

You will need pliers, 14mm wrench(or vice grip), 17mm wrebch, 17mm socket, BFH and pickle fork. First, loosen the 17mm nut in the inside of the tue rod. Just loosen it, and thread it back agains the tie rod end. Now, remove the cotter pin and the 17mm castle nut on the tie rod stud from the steering knuckle. Use a ball joint separator(pickle fork) and insert it between the tie rod and the knuckle, with the flat side against the tie rod boot. Whack with a hammer till it pops out. You can also whack on the side of the knuckle to pop it out. There is a flat spot on the inner tie rod to hod still with a 14mm wrench(or vice grip. unscrew the old tie rod, screw on the new one till it is against the nut. Put the tie rod stud into the knuckle and thread on the castle nut, tighten up, and insert cotter pin. now, tighten the big nut on the tie rod against the tie rod end. Doing it this way will minimize or eliminate the need for an alignment afterward.

I'll trade you a MAF for your car

Maybe they are coming out? The last head gasket i did, the hla buckets were all flush, except one. I tried to tap it in . got it mostly in, but i also boogered up the edge, and had to file on it to fit the hla back in.

It really is that easy. The outback also has 1 inch spacers between the body and the frame. If you really want lift, do a little bit of body lift along with the struts. The idea of lift kits is to fit larger tires, as that will give you ground clearance.

maybe one of the elements in the MAF failed. You can undo the 2 screws and pull it out of the housing to inspect it. There will be 2 filaments spaced apart. usually the one on the bottom will fall out.

I went through a whole can for the first coat, and ran out before doing the strut tops. I finished the 2nd coat with 2/3 can, starting at the strut top, again for the tire well, all horizontal surfaces, then vertical, and then the front core support. I still have 1 full can do do touch-ups on the body. I hope one can of clear will do the rest. I will focus mainly on the front, and the strut towers and tire well, as it will not be as noticeable if i skipp the lower frame rails and behind the headlights, battery tray, brake booster area. I hope to get at the shop today and lay the clear, as i did not have the can with me yesterday. I forgot to get the mounts for the crossmember to bring home and refresh. Today i will de-rust and paint the x-member, and from there, i can take it to the shop and install once i lay my clear. I can go ahead and install the struts at this point, once my paint hardens up for the strut top bolts

^^^ this is true. Do all of this in this order. The driveshaft is easy to remove. Undo the bolts from the nut side, as the heads of the bolts are held captive by the shape of the yokes.

it takes about an hour to do. I once pulled a motor in late afternoon, did the seals, and had it together before dark. I could make 2-300 bucks a day for just 100 bucks each. I do timing belts for 200, come on and throw me some work. I'll pack up my tool box and hit the road my general labor rate is $40/hr based on book time. Now only if i had the book to reference time! I could charge 60 or 80 and still be cheaper, because i know it's worth more, and worth even more to be competent in subarus specifically