MilesFox

fixed

YOu may just be a tooth off on the driver side cam. Easy enough to do when getting the last of the belt on. make sure the plug wires are routed correctly. pressurizing the oil system with air may pop out one of the HLA's from their buckets

make sure you didnt unplug the MAF. (tryng to think of what can happen when doing a valve cover...) Did you cross plug wires? Maybe there is just an odd coincidence throwing you off. Maybe consider double check ing the timing belt alignment. Also consider a bad intake gaslet. As when i got my 3door, rebuilt the car, got it to run, it would only run long enough to get in and put in gear, ad stall out. I rebuilt the carb 3 times. Replacing the intake gaskets cured it. Just trying to give you ideas to consider, based on my experiences

Average cost will be based on how you shop. A used engine is worth a good 200 bucks. But then you need to find a harness, this, that, the other. Most economical route is to source a whole donor car for under 500. This way you have the engine, radiator, hoses, and all of the wiring aharness and everything else, plus bonus spare parts to sell or use on another car. Adapter plate is about 100 bucks used, may come with flywheel. Otherwise you are into drilling the flywheel, cost of drill bit, etc.. a ull out harness is worth about 60-100 bucks. A chopped and ready harness is worth towards 300 I am swapping my car. I gave 500 for an ej22 engine with adapter, and full xt6 trans and driveline.(really, i sold the donor xt for 500 after getting it for 350, and bought it back after it was chopped down, and got the ej in the mix) I gave 300 for the car. aside frm that deal, i had already picked up a whole subaru legacy with manual trans for 300 bucks, and another engine for 200 with spare head and intake, to use with a harness i already had. If i was working with just the legacy and the spare motor, i would be 500 in, plus i would have to find an adapter for about 150(shipped), and maybe about 50 bucks in hoses and whatnot to install it all. Some will tell you that it will cost about 700 bucks to do, starting from nothing. But it can be free if you live on a stash of subaru parts. With my project, i think i am getting more costly in spray products and stainless hardware, than i am in the car itself or the parts i need. the more you can do yourself, the cheaper it will be. Labor is free, if you have the time

test your fuel pressure at the retrun line. The regulator is after the injector. Suppose you disconnected vacuum to the FPR?

I paid 200 bucks for a 91 ej22 with a spare egr head and obd2 intake. A price of 300-4oo bucks would be fair to have the motor installed.(100 labor. 200 labor for seals and t belt) you can use it if you get the right exhaust pipe for it

As i came to the car today, after washing and naval jelly POR-15 on the seams and rusty areas. painted parts NAPA stone guard black. Light primer on the black paint First coat PPG crest brown metallic #569 Second coat:

As the car was originally, i had powerwashed and tire shined the underhood. It was clean from a detail standpoint. After removing the engine and driveline, I cleaned the engine bay by scrubbing down with a scotch brite pad and dish soap and water. Then i rinsed with fresh water and a rag. Beforehand, I used a knotted wire wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder to remove rust scale, and apply naval jelly. After the prep, I use por-15 on the seams and rusty spots, primer on the por, and then 2 coats of ppg mix crest brown metallic. Factory shine:banana:. Next will be 2 coats of clear for show quality.

El NEgoro Porv\favor? El como zorro loco! (black, please, crazy like a fox) I painted my underhood with real ppg crest brown metallic under the hood, 2 coats, waiting for clear, pics to come!

You may just have to invent something.Keep in mind that if you make a lift, space everything the same distance from the body, and maintain a 15 deg angle on the front struts for proper suspension geometry, Once lifted, the suspension will retain the smae geometry if everything is spaced equally from teh body. Please do some searching on lift kits ans the idea is simple, and can be executed with some ingenuity. The purpose of a lift is to fit larger tires without cutting up fenders and wheel arches, as the overall ground clearance is attained by the wheels themseves.

An EA82 raditor fits nicely, and will fit the ea82 hoses and engine.

The correct o- rings are supplied with the felpro ea82 head gasket set. This includes intake, exhaust, cam seals, and valve cover gaskets. The valve cover and grommets are of oem manufacture. There will be o-rings for the cam tower, and for the distributor, and also for the cam retainers The bottom end conversion set will have front and rear crank, oil pan, oil pump and water pump gaskets.

Ditch the fram and go to napa for a 1361, 21361, or 51361 filter. You canalso use a motorcraft fl1-a filter(5.0 ford) on ea82 subarus.

running open belts is fine. the belts are more likely to fail from oil and coolant that from random debris. Pluus, if you do a belt change later, save yourself the labor of pulling the crank pullet. This also allows you to service the water pump without removing covers. oil pan can be leaking in the rear. Also if your car is MPFI, there is a breather plate that may be leaking. red fluid, i maintain, is coming from the steering system, possibly a pinhole leak in the steering rack hardlines. Unless someone put ATF in the trans, there is no explaination for the red fluid. If the trans was leaking, it would be leaking from the driveshaft, axle stubs, or shifter seals, or drain plug(crush washer)

try sanding the shaft of the disty with high grit paper. It should fit by itself. maybe there is a little corrosion on it. also, try a spot of motor oil on the shaft.

Well, the trans is clean enough to paint. The idea of painting was originally to clearcoat the natural color so the trans stays shiny, and is easy to clean when it gets dirty. as far as the resto f my questions, regarding the car itself, anyone have any ideas for underhood, brackets, mounts, pulleys, etc? If i chose to paint the trans, i was thinking a gold color, and paint the intake to match. I would leave the block and heads natural color, and either paint or mirror polish the vavle covers(ej222)

I would not go beyond 50 or 55 lbs, for the sake of the aluminum thread. Make sure to chase the holes out with an oiled bolt before installing the head, so you get even and proper torque readings.

Used ones come up often enough in the for sale forum. That, or you can buy an already lifted car for a partout for cheap enough.

I had a ford pinto that did this, but only because the cam lobes were eaten up at least 1/8 inch from bad oil pressure

There is a drain plug on the driver side head. Perhaps it was removed for machining. This is the same hole on the driver side head that the turbo water pipe goes to.

Chassis black for a factory look. The por15 is too glossy. I painted the control arms, radius rods, trans mout, and next, the crossmember. I decided to leave the knuckles glossy

I had more pics, but when people randomly find my amera and view it, they delete them somehow, for f* sake:mad: Here are the struts that came from my donor xt, with some sloppy coilover setup, compared to a complete pull off xt6 strut Here is the spring that was on the silver kyb strut, it was about 6 inches shorter than the travel of the strut. The KYB iis about 2 inches longer below the perch, and about 2 inches longer in travel And here we have a double coilover with the aftermarket hardware shoved inside an original xt6 strut and spring. The xt6 struts are manufactured by tockico. I wish i had some pink paint to paint the inner spring, but i am broke right now. But this whole thing may come apart for either kyb AGX struts, or oem sti struts

are you opening up the bottom end, or just trying to free the cylinder with a hammer and block of wood? I would say give it a shot. But the gaskets may already be squished down and wont torque u the same. But if you are willing, you can be the one to prove wether this works or not!

it is wider. You may be able to hybrid inner and outer tie rod ends. You may have to make a hole in the crossmember for power steering lines. I, myself, and puttin a 98 legacy rack in an ea82. From my leftovers, i will be cramming ea82 suspension in the brat, which includes an ea82 manual rack

You could go to car shows and talk about how you ported and gasket matched your fill tube:lol: